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Terrys
| Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2008 - 12:04 am: |
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So I've read all the older post about removing bearings from the rims...sounds like you really need a removal tool. I found this one on line ..... http://www.pitposse.com/whbereto.html it says its for 3/4 or 1 inch ID and I believe the Buell bearings are 25 mm (.984 inches)anyone use this? Anybody know if there are other tools out there? Also can you tap new bearings in by hand or do you need a press (Message edited by terrys on November 05, 2008) |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2008 - 06:14 am: |
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A lot of us have used this puller from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem. taf?Itemnumber=95987 The one you found is half the price but I have no idea if it will grip properly. From what I've seen, the outer cage of the bearings tends to have surface rust and make the bearings VERY hard to get out. You can tap the bearings in using a suitably sized socket or piece of pipe that rests on the outer race of the bearing. DON'T tap on the inner race or you will ruin the bearings. Even better, us large flat washers, a piece of all-thread, and nuts to gently pull the bearings into place. Chilling the new bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours ahead of time and warming the hub of the wheel with a hair dryer helps things go easier too. |
Dlwilson
| Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2008 - 09:34 am: |
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The Harbor Freight puller worked for me. I had to file the puller slightly to get it to fit in the ID of the bearing. The bearings popped right out with the puller. I used the all-thread + washers and nuts to install the new bearings. I've used this for years to install races in bicycle head tubes. Sometimes I have to tap gently on the outer race to align the bearing before tightening the nuts on the all-thread, but once the bearing is lined up it slips right into place, even if it's not frozen. Don't force it. |
Gowindward
| Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2008 - 09:44 am: |
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"Even better, us large flat washers, a piece of all-thread, and nuts to gently pull the bearings into place." I did that using some 7/8" all-thread and think it's the best way for a DIY install. I would still freeze the bearing and heat the hub too. I used the Harbor Freight tool also. I would recommend some heat on the hub too for help in removal of the bearings. |
Neurorider
| Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2008 - 10:15 am: |
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All-thread works great to press it in; if you HAVE to use a hammer and tap it in, the old bearing happens to have the perfect OD to do that. Freeze the bearing overnight first too. HF tool worked great on my ULY. |
Mmcn49
| Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2008 - 03:35 pm: |
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How do you heat the hub without damaging the paint? Torch and heat guns are out, wife's hair dryer maybe? |
Neurorider
| Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 05:48 pm: |
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Hairdryer will do it, I used a heat gun which is a glorified and much hotter hair dryer. Heat it till the hub feels quite warm but not impossible to touch. If you can still touch the hub, you won't be melting paint off. Take your time and check often. Don't hold the heat too close; about 3" was what I did. Keep it moving too. |
Glitch
| Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 05:53 pm: |
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There's always the 3%er way...
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Hughlysses
| Posted on Thursday, November 06, 2008 - 08:14 pm: |
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Dang Charlie- get yourself some safety glasses so your kid doesn't have to call you "patchy"... |
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