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Mr2shim
| Posted on Friday, October 17, 2008 - 12:39 pm: |
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So, what would be the reason for a bike not doing anything when the key is turned to on. Besides, bad battery, bad relays, bad main fuse, bad ignition fuse? Ground connections seem to be ok and tight. VR tested good if that matters. (Message edited by mr2shim on October 17, 2008) |
Sharkytattoo
| Posted on Friday, October 17, 2008 - 12:55 pm: |
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Bad ignition switch? Bad relay? Diodes in correctly? Does any power come on at all? Headlamp? Speedo? |
Mr2shim
| Posted on Friday, October 17, 2008 - 01:03 pm: |
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Nothing, completely dead. I checked the relays, 2 were good one bad, one replaced, diodes are installed correctly. They even checked out ok per manual. Checked every fuse, not one blown. Ignition switch is ok, I put my VDC meter to the batt. It would drop from 12.6 to 12.2 volts when the key was turned to on, but that's all that happened. No gauge sweep or lights... (Message edited by mr2shim on October 17, 2008) |
Sharkytattoo
| Posted on Friday, October 17, 2008 - 01:43 pm: |
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Any corrosion at battery terminals? Check the ground to chassis cable, maybe put a star washer to ensure good ground. Does anything happen when you hit start? Could your instrument cluster have gone bad? |
Iamarchangel
| Posted on Friday, October 17, 2008 - 04:11 pm: |
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Check ground to ECM or power from relays to ECM. The manual reads like a no power situation at the ECM will shut down almost everything. I'm not sure about that. Did you check the horn? Manual seems to say that the horn is direct to the battery (through fuses, of course). Troubleshooting the horn only has two options: dead battery or failed part. No horn means dead battery. 12.2 is slightly more than 25% of the battery charge. |
Rsh
| Posted on Friday, October 17, 2008 - 05:59 pm: |
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This may be the culprit. Check the wires that come out of the ignition switch. On the XB "R" bikes the wires coming out of the ignition switch get pulled/tugged on when turning in either direction and eventually the wires bird cage and break off at the solder joints inside the switch. I had this happen to me. Fine turning left, dead turning right. Fortunately it is easy to rehab the switch, or you can buy the bottom electrical part of the switch for about $30 bucks. |
Moosestang
| Posted on Friday, October 17, 2008 - 06:21 pm: |
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My wifes truck did that once. Had me scratching my head for hours. Turned out to be a broken ground connector at the battery terminal, but if you looked at it, you'd think it was solid. I think the problem is in the ignition switch itself, like Rsh said. Try to hot wire it! |
Sharkytattoo
| Posted on Friday, October 17, 2008 - 07:30 pm: |
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Check the ground wire to the ECM. Follow it to the chassis and make sure its not loose there. |
Mr2shim
| Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 03:00 pm: |
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I'm an idiot. I bought a battery a few weeks ago, I poured the acid into the battery, didn't charge it.... I've never read instructions to anything so I just assumed the battery didn't need charging, (again idiot). So I went to advance. I finally got the time to go. (work too much) swapped batteries. This time I read the instructions. It indeed said to charge it before use. I did, hooked it back up. Threw on the ol multimeter set to VDC and hit the start, of course it is charging. I rode around the neighborhood to see if it would diminish, The stator seems to be working perfectly fine. Thanks for all the help guys, I really appreciate it. |
Guell
| Posted on Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 04:30 pm: |
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Froggy
| Posted on Sunday, October 19, 2008 - 12:04 am: |
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Mr2shim
| Posted on Sunday, October 19, 2008 - 10:42 am: |
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Yes I fail. (Message edited by mr2shim on October 19, 2008) |
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