| Author | Message | ||
     Dcmortalcoil |
Bought XB9S used (2003/500 miles). Changed engine oil and transmission fluid to Amsoil 20W-50 upon receipt because the cooling fan was running pretty much continuously at ambient temperature of 50-65 degrees F. The fan is now running less and running at low speed as opposed to high speed before the fluid change. My question is, is it normal for the cooling fan to come on that much, even during highway speeds? Pretty annoying. I'm thinking of removing the air ram to expose the rear piston to free air. Good or bad idea. Anyone tried that? | ||
| Stot |
Bad idea, The air scoop supplies air to the airbox and directly to the rear cylinder. Look down it and you can see right thru. My fan comes on quite a bit but I dont notice it over the race can til I park up. Cya Stot | ||
| Steveford |
It sounds like you have a bad temperature sensor. | ||
| Xb12r |
I live here in florida and my fan only come on when I ride it hard our I sit in traffic. When I stop the bike it will run for afew mins. | ||
| Gearloose |
How any miles are on it now> My 12S fan ran quite allot till it got some miles on it. G. | ||
| Mitchelob |
I live in Florida as well. The XB9 I had the fan never ran unless the motor was shut off. The XB12 I now have the fan will usually kick on and stay on while riding. Other XB's I've ridden were even different in their fan operation. Which is correct? Dunno, but I'd rather the fan run than not at all. (good question for the local Buell tech this week) | ||
| Brucelee |
It shouldnt run all that much esp with synthetic oil in it. I would have it checked out. | ||
| Whodom |
It would be well worth checking out the temperature sensor, but 500 miles is pretty early for changing to synthetic based on what most people here say. Most people here seem to run dino oil for at least ~2000 miles before switching to syn. The synthetic may prevent the parts from wearing in properly and therefore may prolong your bike's hot running nature. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
I was debating whether to change to synthetic this early on, but I read in several different places, especially HD ad for their synthetic, that it can be used right away: "Can a brand new motorcycle have its fluids drained and refilled with SYN3 without voiding the warranty?" "Yes, this product can be used as a first fill upon delivery of a new motorcycle. The formula is approved by Harley-Davidson for use in all stages of engine life and is not detrimental to the engine break-in cycle." Excerpt from HD synthetic oil FAQ: http://www.rmh-d.com/parts/syn3_faq.php#a3 | ||
| Easyflier |
Lyle, I'd be more concerned if it didn't come on. If it has over 2,500 miles then take and have the shop discover what is causing the annoyance (too much fan isn't a bad thing). If it's under 2,500 now I'd just let it keep breaking in and loosening up. | ||
| Buckinfubba |
lyle If the engine temp sensor was bad your bike would be running like crap. It more than likely is not that. And as someone said earlier don't take off the scoops they supply air to your engine. Let it break in a lil more. But if its running it can't be all bad. Its doing its job. Is your bike stock or does it have a pipe on it. If it has a aftermarket pipe make sure you have the race ecm in other wise it could be running lean and as we know that will make it run hot. Brian Tilley hd/buell buckinfubba@hotmail.com | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Brian, Tested the engine temp sensor and the air intake engine sensor by checking their voltage output (wires #9 & #10) against the ground at the grey ECU connector. ECU or these sensors or all appear to be bad. Voltage reading at room temperature (65 degrees) should indicate closer to 5 volts than 0. They only output 0.7 volt and 0.1 volt, respectively. Guess I'll have to take it in. As I wondered why the engine light didn't come on, I tried to manually display trouble codes by shorting pins 1 & 2 of the diagnostic connector and turning the on ignition. Nothing showed. Nada. Is it normal to display nothing? | ||
| Buckinfubba |
I am not at work so I can't be for sure on those voltages. I usually test the engine temp sensor for a resistance test and then use the computer and let the bike run and watch the voltage changes as it heats up. probably should take it in and get it checked...when you say runs continuosly do you mean the minuet you turn it on or after its been running it comes on and don't go off | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Had the diagnostic done at HD-Buell of Washington (Fort Washington, MD) with the state of art gizmo, namely a laptop computer. The technician said the scanalyzer is old news. Anyway, everything showed up fine, albeit the oxygen sensor running at 115% (whatever this means). The technician indicated that it may have been running rough because the breaking period was initially done in Montana (high elevation, thin air), causing the engine to run in the mode "learned" there, and that I had not given sufficient mileage here to relearn the ECM. He reset the TPS to solve this issue. I was charged 1/2 hr time ($40 total). I was in and out there in about 2 hours. The fan run time is significantly lowered. The fan didn't come on at all at highway runs (perhaps because the temperature dipped to 40's). Problem solved. Good to see that nothing was defective. | ||
| Buckinfubba |
what he ment probably by the 115% is the AFV the air fuel value. that is in an acceptable range. I din't realize you had moved but . the question is how many miles have you ran around your new place. is your bike stock or do you have a pipe. If this problem raises its head again it may be an intake leak. That is if your bike has the stock pipe and ecm and filter. If you have the race ecm and filter and a pipe , disregard what I am saying. But if its stock with the afv at 115% the computer is being told it is a lean condition so the system compensates for that and give more fuel to make it right. it could be true about the computer if you don't have that many miles on it in maryland because the puter hadn't learned the new enviroment yet. but it could be an intake leak if it raises its head again. Ride it for about 5 or 6 miles right at 3000 or 3500 rpm and let it learn. Then we'll see | ||
| Hootowl |
Any of you dealer types know about how often we should have our adaptive fuel value checked? Once you set the TPS it should stay good (minus throttle plate wear of course) but what about AFV? | ||
| Blake |
My understanding is that the AFV (adaptive fuel value) is constantly adjusted by the ECM based on O2 sensor output. It should never need adjustment other than when you are making significant changes to the engine... performance exhaust, race ECM etc... Even then, it should, given time, self adjust to an optimum level. | ||
| Buckinfubba |
BLAKE You are correct. That is where it gets its input from and yes it adjust. The only reason I reset it when I reset a tps is just to bring it all together I guess a brand new beginning is my thought and yes I was using the wrong words it is adapitive fuel value, not air fuel value, I swear I have a mental block on the word adaptive. probably why I am such a pain in the arse. | ||
| Brucelee |
Buck- Just wanted to tell you how much I appreciate your technical expertise on these posts. Thanks | ||
| Hootowl |
That's why I asked. Every time I've ever had my TPS reset, they have set the AVF to 100% |
