| Author | Message | ||
     Xbniner |
I am about due for my first oil change on my bike. I do my own oil changes on my cars, but was considering letting the local useless HD shop do it because I don't know much about bikes, and the filter seems to be in a really inconvenient place. They quoted me $150 and said that I could do it when they replace my headlights cause apparently i have to leave it there for a week for that... Is that the normal price? That seems retarded. Now that I think about it, I didn't even specify synthetic, but I'd assume at that price it would have to be... Would it be easy to change my own oil on an 03 xb9r, and if so is there a guide or something on here and do I need to take off my chin fairing? Thanks a lot! | ||
| Firebolt32 |
Would it be easy to change my own oil on an 03 xb9r, and if so is there a guide or something on here and do I need to take off my chin fairing? It is very easy to change the fluids in the 9r. I took my chin fairing off just to make it easier to deal with the oil filter. I believe if you register at http://buell.com/en_us/ they have a .pdf version of the manual you can access. As for the price, it seems pretty fair. Much more than that around here. | ||
| Valiant_duke |
Are you kidding me, 150 for 3 quarts of oil and a $7 oil filter, it takes maybe a half hour, most of the time is spent letting it drip. I would also suggest that you change the primary when you do your oil, just a good habit of getting into. So I say learn to work on your beauty and get to know her. Dont go to the stealership! | ||
| Andymnelson |
Very easy, do it yourself. Yes, remove the chin fairing- a T27 bit will handle that. There's a guide to it all here (but for an '05...similar at least): http://www.buell.com/om/99474-05Y_en/file-6.asp | ||
| Talath |
+1 for Valiant_duke. I agree, it's a rediculous price. The filters are easy to come by and there are several to choose from. I've been using the Bosch. I'm not going to get into the "which type of oil to use" argument, though there's a ton of info available on a search of these boards on oil and on filters. I use HD-Formula 1 synthetic in my primary and engine. Both drain plugs are within inches of each other, the engine oil at the bottom of the swingarm, and the primary just forward of that on the bottom of the primary case. To keep the oil from running onto my exhaust tip, I make a little chute out of some aluminum foil to direct it into my oil catch pan. The chin fairing removes with the T-27 wrench in your tool kit, from there, the filter is an easy spin-off. Fill and check the engine oil and primary oil per the owner's manual you got with the bike. Total price should be about $25-$30. And depending on how quickly you drink, or how fast you work, it's a one to two beer job. | ||
| Birdy |
7 T-27 and the chin fairing's off. The filter is a spin off. One plug on the swing arm for the motor oil and one on the primary for that oil. 4qts (only need 3 1/2 BUT) oil, one filter. A couple of O-rings and a clutch adjustment cover gasket and 1/2 hour is all you need. Pick up the shop manual it will save you a ton. In fact that $150.00 they want to change the oil? That'll buy the book, all the stuff for the oil change and dinner! | ||
| Xbniner |
Pick up the shop manual it will save you a ton. In fact that $150.00 they want to change the oil? That'll buy the book, all the stuff for the oil change and dinner! Already have the book, I guess I should have gone there first. So it's four quarts for the swingarm and the primary combined? And do I have to get the Orings and that gasket from Harley? One other question, I have heard people reference the 5000 mi service, is that just an oil and primary change, or is there more I should be doing? I just rolled over 5k. Thanks for all the help guys, I'll be doing it myself! | ||
| Talath |
The maintenance items performed for the 5k service can be found in the owner's manual that you got with the bike. Between the owner's manual and the shop manual, you'll be able to tackle most everything. The only thing that may be difficult is when you've got to reset the TPS. For that, do a search here for ECMspy. | ||
| Iamarchangel |
Whoa, $US150, say what? Pretty sure it's about $CDN50 here. A bit much, but they get rid of the oil, once over the bike and wash it. More than that and I would do it myself. | ||
| Jeffroj |
I asked the service dept., they said $60 for synthetic oil change. | ||
| Firebolt32 |
I'd be lucky to find that oil change at $150 around here. They do more than just poor oil in the thing, but I still think it's a high price though. 5k's I do on my own. 10k's I like my guys at X-techs to give it a once over. | ||
| Xbrfirebolt |
On my XB12R it takes 2 1/2 quarts of oil for the engine, which goes in the swing arm. Put a few onces of the new oil in the replacement filter with part of that amount if you want before you install it. Almost 1 quart of Harley Formula 1 for the primary. | ||
| Xbrfirebolt |
Be very careful to not over tighten the drain plugs in the primary/swing arm. | ||
| Buellinachinashop |
"I asked the service dept., they said $60 for synthetic oil change." That's about right. Mobil 1 20w-50 VTwin Syn is about 10.00 a quart. 3 quarts, a filter and labor. "The only thing that may be difficult is when you've got to reset the TPS." I'd say the fork oil change would be a bit harder than a TPS reset now that ecmSpy is out. | ||
| Chasten |
xbniner... i was in the same position as you when i first got the bike (car wrenching experience but not motorcycle), and now due to a series of negative experiences and a LOT of money, i'm very anti-dealer. the only way to learn about bikes is to jump right in. the xb is a pretty good bike for teaching you how to work on your own ride. i skipped the fork oil change at 10,000 miles, but all other maintenance i've been able to do by myself, or with the help of other local Buell guys (with ECMSpy software)... for the most part, you don't even need to buy any special tools for these bikes. you can do it yourself; take your time; rtfm; and smile at all the money you're NOT giving away to the dealership. that's probably enough cash saved to pay for your fuel and insurance all year. | ||
| Starter |
Oil change do it yourself. At least you'll have a chance to give the bike a good inspection while waiting for the oil to drain and do those little bits like greasing pivots etc that don't normally get done ever. I also tend to nip the clutch adjustment up as well while waiting and ever second time give the head bearing a tighten. As for leaving the bike at the dealer for a week for them to change the lights out, this was a first job of the morning while-you-wait at my dealer. From go to whoa including the pattern adjustment was a bit over 1/2 hour. | ||
| Xbniner |
Wow thanks for all the tips and help guys! That's why I love this site! That's what I was thinking about the lights too Starter, but with what I've observed so far (plus still being in sticker shock for the oil change!) I didn't doubt them. I'd pretty much decided to just wait till winter to let them do it cause I'm not giving up a week of riding time on my new bike in prime riding weather. The lights are fine anyway as far as I can tell. | ||
| Bads1 |
Shop rates are up..... 80 bucks at most shops. Then you have oil disposal. Then you have 32 bucks in syn. oil and 8 bucks in oil filter. I'm coming up with 125-130 bucks for a dealer to do it if they indeed hit you for a full hour. Seem's like more of them will then won't. Me I do it for about 40-45 bucks myself. Drop the old oil off at a quick oil change place for cars. Most of those shop's will take it for you. | ||
| Mbohmann |
Oil disposal? Here in SE Wisconsin, shops get paid for used oil if they have a couple of hundred gallons, i.e. and old heating oil tank full of it. A lot of shops have heating units that burn waste oil. Other than the maintenance/cleaning on the burners, that's close to free heat. Even better when you can charge the customers for "oil disposal". At the bus shop where I work, I was told we get a minimal amount for used oil but I would guess that used oil has gone up in value just like crude and cooking oil. PS: learn to change your own oil. You will build self-confidence and learn about your bike. | ||
| Bads1 |
Here SE Wisconsin is where I live. There are disposal fee's all over the place. Car dealers,oil change places,motorcycle dealers,etc. | ||
| Mbohmann |
Not disputing that almost all shops charge "environmental fees". Truth is they can get paid for used oil if they are smart about it. Of course they aren't going to tell the customers that. It may not be a profit item but the fee at least covers their labor cost for handling it. Kinda like tire disposal. No one gets paid for tires but the shops will charge $3-$4 for each tire and actual disposal is $1.25 each for car tires. Those dollars add up. | ||
| Moosestang |
here in florida discount auto parts has a disposal tank. There is no charge and you dump it yourself. | ||
| Retrittion |
Change it yourself, just make sure you have two things: Shop manual (or the "big blue book" as I like to ask my wife to hand me) AND a torque wrench (or three). Over/under-tightening bolts is probably the number one cause of damage to vehicles over the long term. Oh, and read the directions in the manual a few times so you don't miss a step the first time. But it is easy peasy stuff basically coming down to warm it up, open it up, swap the filter with a fresh one with some new oil inside, and close it up -- add a gasket swap for the primary oil change and same deal. You might consider have the dealer do some of the 5K stuff for you if your not comfortable doing it and an experienced Badwebber isn't available in your area. Cheers! | ||
| Paint_shaker |
Get the shop manual... Do it yourself... Save some bucks!! As for them needing a week to change out yer lights... Aks them to order the part and let you know when you can swing by with the bike and wait on it. Very easy and quick procedure. Light removal on my race bike took about 20 minutes. |
