| Author | Message | ||
     Twinv |
Howdy bueller, Few quick questions for you before I install my Micron: During engine rotation, do you need to remove the drive belt? It looks to me that the swing arm and the engine will rotate together and hence not put tension on the belt? The lower rear tie bar, the one on top of the tensioner pulley, some instructions say to remove the bolt on the engine side, it looks to me that it would be easier to remove the bolt attached to the frame, as it is readily accessible. The service manual or the micron instructions (don't remember which) said to apply some silicon sealant to the header joints before assembly. What kind of brand do you recommend or what kind of pointers can you give me, as I have never used that type. When you loosen/remove the big front isolator bolt, it is recommended jacking up the engine to remove the weight of the engine from that bolt, do you jack the engine up till the front wheel is not touching anymore, or just enough to unload the forks? Thanks | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
I don't remove anything to rotate the motor down... | ||
| Schmitty |
Here's my answers to your questions. I did this install over the winter. 1. As far as the belt goes, I would at least loosen up the rear axle to take the tension off the belt. The engine and swingarm do not rotate down together. The engine pivots on the rear isolator, and the belt will keep it from rotating properly. 2. You should only need to remove the bolt attached to the frame. 3. The Micron instructions tell you to put silicone on the slip joints. The silicone does not seal. Someone told me to try the copper gasket sealant, but I haven't tried that yet. Just make sure that the joints are pushed together as far as they will go. You may need to use a rubber mallet to get them seated all the way. And crank the clamps down tight! 3. Are you working on the bike on service stands like Pitbulls? You should not need to jack the engine up enough to take any weight off of the forks. If you watch the isolator bolt as you jack up the engine you will be able to see the engine move up off the bolt. This is all the higher you need to go!! Remove the bolt and SLOWLY lower the jack. DO NOT attempt to do this with the bike on the sidestand! You need to do this with service stands. The best advice I can give you is to take your time and follow the service manual to the letter!! Otherwise have fun with it and don't be afraid to ask if you have more questions. Schmitty | ||
| Twinv |
Schmitty, Thanks a lot man, this helps a ton. Since the rear header's upper flange nut is not accessible once the engine is rotated back, did you notice a tendency for it to loosen up (exhaust leaks) after few heat cycles? The others can be re-torqued, but that one....Maybe lock tab washer would help? Cheers | ||
| Tomike00 |
Hi, in addition to what Schmitty said, I did use the copper based sealant (I forget the brand name) as the black stuff was not available. Seemed to work OK. The copper was rated for higher temps. Al at American Sport Bike suggests pre-fitting all pieces prior to bolting things together (clean up the header ends with a file or Dremel if the fit is stubbornly tight) and also, allow the sealant to set up overnight so it won't be as likely to leak. He also suggested giving the upper flange nut an extra pound or two since you won't be able to retorque it later. Good luck! Great sound! | ||
| Bishopjb1124 |
You do not have to rotate the engine down to change out the headers. I did the ones on my wifes xb9s in about 2 hours time. Shoot me an e-mail if you want a step by step of how to do it. sgtbishop1124@yahoo.com Jimmy |
