| Author | Message | ||
     Zoedogg1 |
Rear rotor screws...turn left to loosen or right? I am having a serious pain in the a#* removing them. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Left. Man up. | ||
| Skylerxb12r |
They are right hand thread i.e. Lefty Loosy- Righty Tighty | ||
| Etennuly |
HTFU!, and "keep your driver square to the rig!" | ||
| Zoedogg1 |
Mann!! I'll tell you, what ever jackass put them on at the factory went crazy with the thing...way more than 25 to 27 lbs. Thanks guys!! | ||
| Etennuly |
Try heating them with a soldering gun.....thread locker ya know! | ||
| Deks69 |
Or use a little leverage with a pipe on the wrench. Or go with the heat advice. No problems with a little bar, getting anything off an xb. | ||
| Zoedogg1 |
Well, two torque bits later and three striped screws and three out with an impact driver, I've got all of them out. I had to actually use a dremel to make three of them flat on two sides and use a wrench to get them off. One problem now! I know that some believe that the screws should ALWAYS be replaced, but my plan was to CAREFULLY remove them and reuse them. Not gonna happen, and now the waiting game begins because our Harley shop doesnt stock crap for Buell even though they sell them. SO!! Does anyone know where to get these screws FAST? Has anyone used bolts in place of them? And does anyone know what grade material these screws are? I figured they were 8's if anything, if not harder. I would hate to be riding and shear my rotor off at a high speed...  | ||
| Zoedogg1 |
Oh yeah, the locktite was the problem. They were basically seized in with it. Dont get me wrong, locktite works, just too good sometimes. Its just suppose to keep them from backing out with vibration, not freakin weld them in place. | ||
| Badlionsfan |
Check with our sponsor dealers, or your local dealer if they're worth a damn. | ||
| Etennuly |
Those should be stainless bolts. You could match the size and pick up some grade eight bolts at Lowes or Home Depot while you wait for your dealer to get the pretty ones. | ||
| Badlionsfan |
Or take one to a fastenall dealer and see if they have them. | ||
| Zoedogg1 |
Lucked out and the dealer here actually had three of them. I still have three in good order I can use. I went ahead and ordered up a pack of FIVE (cant believe they come in five..tards) so I can change the old ones out when I get them. Hate to get too far off subject but, I was told at the dealership that brake fluids Dot3 and Dot4 can be mixed, and Dot4 and Dot5 can be mixed, but Dot3 and Dot5 cannot be mixed. He also said that Harley is going back to just DOT4, cause DOT5 wont work with the new ABS brake systems. Is this true about the mixing? I went ahead and got DOT4 to be "safe" if its true. | ||
| Diablobrian |
I was always told to NEVER mix different brake fluids. Even if a system is designed for DOT 3 or 4 you use one or the other, not both, but I could be wrong. | ||
| Deks69 |
Heard the same not to mix brake fluids. They are rated for different temps. The XB's are dot4 anyway so why not just get dot 4? And hey Im in the same boat as you, stripped out some of the torque screws for my air box base, like it was fricken welded in there, had to hammer and grind to get them out. Of course the HD/Buell dealer didnt have a single one in stock so now I sit and wait. Im thinking on replacing the torques with some real bolts. Why do they do this? Whats wrong with normal hex heads or even just stick with allen. Torques suck. Good luck man. | ||
| Zoedogg1 |
Thanks for the input. I was always taught not to mix them either. I just stayed with DOT4. I had a tuff time bleeding the rear brake do to the crappy banjo's they use. I tefloned the threads twice and still kept getting air leaks. I've got it now but man...next time I'll just get a better banjo bolt. The MityVac I used for the first time is one of the best tool investments I've made in some time..Ebay for like 25 bucks. | ||
| Nik |
I was told at the dealership that brake fluids Dot3 and Dot4 can be mixed, and Dot4 and Dot5 can be mixed, but Dot3 and Dot5 cannot be mixed. 3 and 4 can be mixed, but either of those and 5 cannot be mixed. 3 and 4 are made of the same stuff (glycol), but are different grades, whereas 5 is silicone based. It's like regular and premium gasoline vs diesel. Of course to add to the confusion there's also DOT 5.1 which is glycol based... Just use what the braking system is designed for... | ||
| Jos51700 |
Well, NHTSA really only says that hydraulic mineral oil is not compatible with DOT fluids, and that, in order to be DOT rated, brake fluids MUST be fully miscible with one another. (straight from the horses' mouth: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/staticfiles/DOT/NHTSA/Veh icle%20Safety/Test%20Procedures/Associated%20Files /TP-116-04.pdf Really all they say is that DOT 3, 4, etc. is only a boiling point guideline, and not composition) Now, I know what everyone says, and I know that's not what is found in owners' manuals and on the bottles of brake fluid, etc., but I know that it is truly possible to mix n' match. How do I know they mix, and the parts get along fine? Simple! Every vehicle I own has been converted to DOT5 since 1999! I've done the full tear-down-replace-all-seals, and I've flushed and filled, and I've even just topped off DOT3/4 with 5, on everything from cars, to motorcycles, to trucks, to hydraulic disc-equipped bicycles. Never a problem! (I'm not saying this to start an argument, so don't get mad. There's certainly nothing wrong with using the "proper" fluid. I just thought some would like to know where rumor stops, and facts begin. It's amazing what you find if you read up!) | ||
| Retrittion |
Deks, I have heard that one reason Buell's don't use hex is as an anti-tampering and anti-theft precaution. Don't know if it is true or not though but it makes some sense. |
