| Author | Message | ||
     Gentleman_jon |
OK, Here is what happened, to the best of my knowledge. Last Sunday, I go to start the bike. Nothing. Nada. No signs of life. I hook up the battery charger. Nothing. I switch the charger to "start" and the fan comes on, in high speed mode. Bike won't start. Take the Harley. Back at the ranch, I discover that the key switch fuse has blown, and that the key switch relay has a short. I replace the fuse and relay, and charge the battery. Bike runs fine. For about 20 miles and dies. Tow it home. I discover that the charging system is not working. No trouble codes. I replace the voltage regulator. All is goood. Bike starts, runs great, charging system is putting 13 volts on battery at idle, 14.5 at higher rpm. I take the bike for a ride, loving the new front end rebuild, new springs, seals, fork oil, when low and behold the bike stops after about 10 miles. The bike just dies. After I try to restart it, the fan comes on high, and won't go off. After a while, it seems to cycle on and off continuously. Tow it home. Check fuses and relays. all good. Three problems: I. Engine wont start. 2. Fan won't go off. 3. check engine light is throwing off so many codes, I can't keep up. I record them on video I get 14,15,16, 23,24,25,32, maybe more, lost track. Hook up a different ECM. No change. I think maybe the key switch is internally shorted. I disconnect the key switch wiring: no change. Has anyone ever seen anything like this. Got any ideas anyone? Two things I will look at tomorrow: 1. Check wiring where I hooked up the voltage regulator, make sure everything is still plugged together, and no chaffing. 2. Check grounds, engine ground, ground in headlight. 3. look all over the bike for chaffed wire shorting,especially around fan. Carb'd Hog looking like not such a bad idea: at least it starts. HEEEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPP! (That felt good).  | ||
| Ustorque |
sounds like chafed wires, and with so many codes id definately look long and hard at the ecm harness wires for any that have been rubbed bare, and may be making contact....why am i telling you this, you know this stuff. | ||
| Retrittion |
Yeah, sounds like wires shorting/grounding. | ||
| Metalstorm |
While you're at it, look directly under the fuse box. It should lift up pretty easily and there you will see a bunch of wires bent and crammed together at sharp angles just asking to be chaffed and nicked. The wiring bundles coming off the ecm are another sore area if they happen to be rubbing against either the shock compression adjuster or against the battery. Lastly, you mentioned the key switch fuse so I'd also take a look up front to see if any key or battery wires are rubbing against the horn and horn bracket. (Message edited by Metalstorm on June 17, 2008) | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
I would call a priest. Maybe try to sprinkle a little holy water if you can get ahold of some. Sounds like a good ol' demonic possession to me. | ||
| Teddagreek |
Have you looked up in your neck where the wire harness going into the housing.. They updated the plastic piece in 07 to stop wire issues rubbing/chaffing.. A lot of guys have had issues in this area  Good Luck.. | ||
| Speedfreaks101 |
Also look closely at the area where the harness runs next to the shock under your seat. Even if you have no issue there make sure that the sharp edge of the shock has plenty of clearance from the harness. | ||
| Metalstorm |
Maybe it would be quicker if we just made a list of where not to look  | ||
| Kurbennett |
Speaking of the front fork harness conduit piece... Is there a secret to changing this out? I bought one but for the life of me dont see how to get the old one off. | ||
| Indy_bueller |
I agree, sounds like something is grounding out. Check your ground points before you start tracing all the wires though, could save you a lot of work! | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Update: Good suggestions so far: Everyone: check grounds GF: maybe lightning got it,( we had a big thunderstorm the other day. Johnny Lunchbox: Holy water. Couldn't hurt. Never underestimate the importance of a higher power. Bike needs to be washed for Homecoming anyway:-) Anyway, upon reflection, I took my own advice, (always risky, but hey, if you ride a motorcycle you got to love living dangerously:-), and checked the last thing I "fixed". This is often the best place for the home mechanic to start, as one's enthusiasm often exceeds one's skill. So........... I took off the front sprocket cover, to reveal all the wires that I had disconnected when installing the voltage regulator, and poked and prodded the wires for a while. The I re-attached the battery, and the bike sprang to life. Now I am recharging the bike's battery, (and my own), and will go over each and every wire and plug to see if I can find the sneaky offender. Do any other old timers remember when motor bike ignition consisted of a mag/gen set? The magneto did nothing but fire the plugs, while the generator tried to charge the battery. The later was very unlikely as the entire electrical system was made by Lucas, but the mags were pretty reliable, if memory serves, so if one had spark, and fuel in the tank, all that was needed was a kick start, or hearty push, and off one went. I think piston aircraft used mags much longer. Perhaps they are still being used. Any pilots know? Off course, that was a real long time ago, and it probably looks much better through the mists of time than actually it was. | ||
| Glitch |
Jon, I just exercised the demons from my own bike. It also was throwing every code known to Buell. I had a few chaffed wires at the cam sensor, one at the BAS, and another at the fuse box. The only one that I didn't cause when I swapped tails, was the cam sensor. Good luck to you, it took more than a couple of weeks to find, and I'm still not 100% sure I've found everything. I do have another wiring loom in case it happens again, I'll just replace it, I'm too tired of chasing wires to chase any longer. | ||
| Jerseyguy |
Do you suppose it might have been the heat emanating from the young lady you photographed next to Blackie that melted some of the insulation? All kidding aside, our rule here at my business when fixing machinery is "If something worked and now it doesn't, look to the last thing you touched." | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Dave, Thanks. Right now it it running, but the engine light goes off for about four seconds, then comes on for about four seconds and then goes off. Does that mean that I should check the codes or something? I guess I should connect pins one and two of the data connector socket and start the code thingy, but the last time I tried that, all I did was blow the ignition fuse. Thoughts? Thanks | ||
| Glitch |
Does that mean that I should check the codes or something? Yes! If you have ECMSpy, nows a good time to check those codes. | ||
| Darthane |
but the last time I tried that, all I did was blow the ignition fuse If that blew the fuse, then you have a short in the low side of the equation (ie, if pin 1 is 12V, you have a short in pin 2). I *think* that the actual diagnostic wires run directly back to the ECM, so if there's no short between the diag connector and the ecm connector, then you have a short within the PCM. Beware an intermittent, however - be absolutely sure there is no chafed/broken/stabbed wire before blaming the ECM.} | ||
| Steeldrummerj |
yep, piston aircraft still use mags. at least the ones I fly do. And you're right, if the engine is turning, then you've got spark. |
