| Author | Message | ||
     Bcarlson |
Howdy everyone, I'm new here, and just bought a 2005 XB9XS on Saturday. It has about 9500 miles on it, and I'm looking to see what is recommended for the 10,000 mile service. I called St. Paul Harley, they quoted me about $1030 for it, Zylstra in Elk River quoted $630, and I haven't heard back from St. Croix Harley. What's the going rate on this? If it was $300-400, I'd take it in, no sweat. But for $630 I'll bite the bullet and take it in -begrudgingly- unless you have a different/cheaper option for me? I'm fine with the fluid changes (although the forks might be interesting, I've not rebuilt up-side down ones before), but I won't be able to reset the TPS and I don't know how to check the timing (haven't bought a manual yet). I searched the archives, and haven't really found much info on what all you can do at home, other than people saying the forks are a pain... Thanks for any opinions/info you can provide! Ben | ||
| Mr2shim |
1k! Holy Sh*t what does that include??!?! Use of a golden toilet while you wait? I did my own 10k miles service. EcmSpy is your friend. free TPS reset ftw. (Message edited by mr2shim on June 02, 2008) | ||
| Glitch |
Don't worry about the TPS unless it's running poorly. I've not had a TPS reset in well over 30,000 miles. Fork oil will it's kind of a pain, is still doable. I do all my work, with fellow 3%ers, it's a good excuse to get together and party. Buy a service manual and break the binds to the dealership. Get ECMSpy too, with the book and spy your well on your way to being independent. | ||
| Jaimec |
Aha! Glitch, on the Quick Board you were chiding me for calling fork oil changes a PITA and now here you are saying the same thing? GOTCHA!! | ||
| Xbswede |
+1 for the manual and ECM Spy. I did my own 10K and about to do my 20K here in another two months | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
With a service manual you could easily take care of most everything on the list if you have a half-decent mechanical brain. I would personally leave the forks to the dealer, but that's just me. I'm sure I could figure it out, but it'd be a very expensive experiment if I buggered something up. | ||
| Mnbueller |
Hey another MN buell! Just want to alert you to this thread in the Storm Fronts section; http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/37/ 6310.html?1211923634 Also I am in Ramsey and I do have ECM spy, a cable and a manual, if you'd ever need any help with that. As far as the 10k service I can't belive there is a $400 difference between two dealerships, thats just insane! | ||
| Retrittion |
The difference is probably because the person on the phone doesn't have a clue about Buells and their servicing (had that happen to me, breaking my ties to the dealership soon as well). Yeah, aside from the forks I think the 10K is nothing too hard and it is worth it to find the Buellers in you area -- many of them are good gearheads and know how to work on the bikes and are willing to teach you how as well. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
A thousand for the ten thousand is simply highway robbery, a very popular activity at many Harley dealers, so it seems. $630 is outrageous too, but not unusual. The ten thousand mile thing is really nothing but a glorified oil change, with a few additional adjustments like the primary chain. One of our brothers, Saintly will change the oil in your forks for a hundred bucks. Here is another strategy. 1. Set your own TPS with your neighbors ECMspy, if necessary. 2. Change your own oil and filter, (buying the Mobil one and SuperTech oil filter, ST4967, at Wal Mart for less than twenty bucks. 3. Invest the thousand in -- a.New Dunlop Qualifier tires, or other top of the line rubber. b.While the forks are apart, have your suspension upgraded with heavier springs and better valves while the fork oil is being changed. c. install some Iridium spark plugs , (Denso IXU24 are good). Now your bike will not only be completely and properly serviced, but it will handle much better in the bargain, and you won't have to do anything for 3000 miles except buy gas. Just my . 02ยข PS: The Shop Manual is very well done, and really a must for every owner who fettles his own bike. | ||
| Glitch |
Worded it like that just for you Jaime  Mine aren't that much of a pain any longer, still as time consuming though. Kind of like rotating the engine, I can rotate the engine, and back again in a half an hour. Some people think that's a pain too. Been thinking of adding bleeders, but haven't because it's not that much of a pain. | ||
| Darthane |
Worst thing, as mentioned, is changing the fork oil. With the right tools, it really isn't bad. Time consuming, but not especially difficult. Pretty much everything else is 'regular' maintentance. Buy the service manual. If you only use it once, it will have paid for itself. There is no maintenance associated with these bikes that is worth $600+ | ||
| Jaimec |
How about a bargain basement Buell with "old style forks?" You know... drain plug on the bottom and filler on the top?? I feel like one of those old timers who sit around reminiscing about how GREAT old Brit bikes were... | ||
| Jlnance |
$1030 is insane. The service manual is $70. It's well written. The 5000 (and odd multiples) service is a glorified oil change. I do them myself. The 10,000 mile services includes a TPS reset and changing the fork oil. I get the dealer to do that, partly because I don't have the software to reset the TPS nor the knowledge to do the fork oil. It's also partly because I have a dealer who knows more than I do, and I want them to check my bike over periodically. Here is a thought for you. One of the sponsors of this board, with a stellar reputation, is 275 miles from you:  Call and get a quote. If it's $300 cheaper, you could do wose than ride over there. Particularly if they will give you a loaner bike while they do the service. | ||
| Bcarlson |
Guys, sounds like the ECMSpy is the way to go on the TPS resetting... I'll have to check into it. MNBueller, I'm in Rush City, MN and work at Dennis Kirk (I manage the IT department) so I think I can get most of the tools/supplies here... Thanks for the offer to give me a hand, I might just have to take you up on it, or at least meet up!  It's really great to have a helpful group like this, I feel very confident I can do the service hearing everything you guys have said. I'm going to run down to our tech department right now, and see if we have the service manual... Thanks guys! Ben P.S. do I need special tools for the primary chain adjustment? Also, should I run the Harley 20w50 synthetic, or another brand (someone suggested Mobil1, isn't that only partial synthetic?) | ||
| Darthane |
You don't need anything other than a T27 and wrenches to do the primary chain adjustment (this holds true for virtually anything on a Buell that doesn't involve breaking open the engine). ...as to oil, that is a massive can of worms. Many people like to run full synthetic, about the only thing I suspect most of us will agree on with regard to oil is that you shouldn't mix dino and synth (ie, always completely drain and refill, don't just add a different oil to bring the level up). | ||
| Prowler |
I personally don't understand why the fork oil needs to be changed at 10K? All the bikes I've owned over the last 30 years, never changed the fork oil until at least 20K miles or more. You would think that current oil and fork technology would allow fork oil replacement at longer intervals than 10K on a street bike fork. (It's a closed system, so no contaminants) I know that there is no way I'm changing mine at 10K intervals* (equivalent to once a year for me). *note...personal opinion regarding fork oil change intervals, do so at your own risk....how's that for politically correct? (Message edited by prowler on June 03, 2008) | ||
| Jaimec |
Oil: DON'T obsess over it. Use any brand name quality oil of the correct viscosity and change it often. Fork Oil: Yeah, 10K sounds excessive to me too (and it's damned expensive at the dealership). 20K sounds about right (also about once a year for me). | ||
| Glitch |
 Oil: DON'T obsess over it. Use any brand name quality oil of the correct viscosity and change it often. | ||
| Bcarlson |
I was looking at ECMSpy... I have a laptop so that would work great, where did you guys get the USB cable at (or parts to make it?) Another question (sorry, just have alot with a new toy!!) What do you use for a bike lift... front and rear stands? belly lift? Photos would be great if you have a custom setup... Ben | ||
| Zoedogg1 |
Man, I got a good deal on mine I guess. I spent 300 bucks on my 10K. After they were done I was told that they screwed up and that the service was actually $650.00. I said, "Sucks to be you". Here's 300 greens and see ya later, since thats what I was quoted. I wasnt about to pay that much. Runs like a champ. I do need to change my rear brake caliper and disc now though. I changed my rear and front pads right after the service and somehow managed to screw up the rear so the pads were slightly cockeyed and toasted my disc. I took the whole brake caliper apart when I did it, which I shouldnt have. One of the top bolts was mis-threaded somehow. No resistance with reassemble so didnt catch it until it was to late. Went through the new rear pads in one week. Bought all new parts to replace entire rear brake. Bummer!! | ||
| Jlnance |
I personally don't understand why the fork oil needs to be changed at 10K? I tend to agree. Given that the transmission oil also has a 10K change interval, and it actually has gears an a clutch in it, I can't fathom what would be in a fork that would be harder on oil. Perhaps they are worried about water accumulating in the oil. For lots of people, 10k miles if 5 years. I can see changing the fork oil every 5 years. | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
I have a vortex rear stand. It was a little tricky getting the nubs just right, but now it is very stable. While it's on the rear stand I used a Sears ATV/Bike jack under the muffler to raise the front end. Even with the front end off the ground it is pretty stable (just don't go too high). This'll allow you to remove the wheels easily and do your primary chain adjustment. | ||
| Kedo |
Glitch - This isn't really a 10K tune-up issue - although my bike just happens to have 9575 miles on it... but ECM Spy is prevelent in this thread. So, I thought I'd hijack it and ask if you or one of the other BWB'rs would be willing to help me troubleshoot Ecm Spy? I have installed the software, the drivers, made my cable hooked-up the bike and "flipped the switch". The software only recognizes the bike after I've started the engine. Further, most of the other features of the program work. I can't do any of the diagnostics. I tried backing up the EEPROM and the "buttons" don't come alive. The one time they did, I started backing-up the map and it timed-out and stopped and I couldn't get it to interface again. It seems like even if I do get the program fully functioning, I need a map of some kind to upload onto my ecm to make the improvements in performance. Do any of you have proven maps for an XB12R with open air box and a Drummer exhaust? I am excited about being able to "play" with the bike to this degree, but feel a little in the dark. Please help.  (Message edited by kedo on July 03, 2008) |
