| Author | Message | ||
     984gasm |
I noticed oil at the seam of my rear cylinder the other day. Can anyone tell me how much of an issue this is or what needs to get done to fix this? Thanks.  | ||
| Glitch |
Can anyone tell me how much of an issue this is or what needs to get done to fix this? Issue: Base gasket is weeping. Go ride. Fix: Remove top end, replace base gasket, along with all the other gaskets that came with the kit. No need in only replacing just that one while you've got the engine torn down, may as well do the front as well. | ||
| Indy_bueller |
The only possible alternative fix is to make sure you warm it up good before you ride. Mine did this not long after I bought it, but it was because I didn't warm it up properly. Yours do look a bit more wet than mine were though. | ||
| Dennista15 |
I have the same problem. I've been dreading tearing into the motor. I don't know how hard it will be to fix. I'm gonna wait until the winter to fix mine though. +1 on warming up before riding. I've made it a habit of letting my bike run without touching the throttle for 5min. before riding. That's usually the amount of time it takes to check everything out: lights, brakes, and tire pressure, and to put all of my gear on. | ||
| Wantxbr |
First do what Glitch said. Ride it or fix it. If your not leaving any oil on the ground then its not that bad and just ride. check oil lever periodically. When you do fix it do what Indy_bueller has mentioned and warm up your motor before riding it or if your in a hurry just don't be hard on the motor when its warming up, But generally warm it up first | ||
| Point_doc |
I HAD this problem, and this is how I fixed it.  | ||
| 984gasm |
Yeah, I am pretty good at warming it up before I ride. As long as I can get the summer out of it without damaging it, that's good! I am anal about checking the oil level, so I guess I will just keep it up. The bike has 25000k on it as of this weekend, so I guess if that is the only issue thus far it's not so bad! | ||
| Jos51700 |
"I HAD this problem, and this is how I fixed it. " Just rotating the engine, instead of splitting it, can save you alot of work, but yes, this is fairly involved. | ||
| 984gasm |
My best friend rebuilds big twins so maybe I can cash in when I decide to do it... http://www.the74shop.com/ | ||
| Point_doc |
Jos51700, Were you able to remove the cylinders from the bike without separating the bike? | ||
| Glitch |
Just rotating the engine, instead of splitting it, can save you alot of work, but yes, this is fairly involved. I'm trying to figure out how someone might get the entire top end off by just rotating the engine. Believe me if that had been an option, that's the route I'd have gone. | ||
| Point_doc |
Glitch, If there was another way, I would have done it. Did not see one and after talking with Kevin Drum from KDFab, he suggested that this was the way to perform this task. So I did it, wasn't so bad. | ||
| Glitch |
I'm with you Point. Jos51700 was saying to only rotate. No it ain't so bad, actually it's way easier than it seems. | ||
| Dlwilson |
I recently removed the rear cylinder so I could replace the piston. I was able to do this with the engine rotated. It really wasn't very hard. There was enough room to work easily. | ||
| Point_doc |
Dlwilson Thanks, it's good to know this. Did you have the wheels off of the ground to accomplish this? If yes; how far from the ground? Did you have to undo any wiring and etc. other then motor mounting hardware? Was there anything special that you did that I haven't asked you? Thanks | ||
| Hexangler |
Are you sure it's the cylinder base gasket? I mean it probably is, but I would clean it up real good first to make sure. An oil leak from the stator wires coming out the back of the primary and/or an oil leak from the starter motor could easily appear like the above photo if left undetected. ...so could leaky rocker box gaskets, etc. Hex | ||
| Dlwilson |
Point_doc - my redneck rear stand is a piece of rebar through the rear axle, across two jack stands. Once the engine was rotated down, I just kept going, pulling off the valve cover, then the rocker box, then the head, then the cylinder. There's plenty of room to get in there with a socket extension going straight down. As far as wiring, I just followed the process in the manual. I think I pulled off the fuel injector connectors, coil connector, O2 sensor connector, rear temp sensor, and TPS. | ||
| Point_doc |
Dlwilson thanks, I like the rebar part!! I have rotated my motor on several occasions and I was trying to visualize how far I would have to rotate to generate enough space for this operation. Usually when I rotate I need just enough to clear the header and I can do this without disconnecting any wires, etc. Thanks again. (Message edited by point_doc on May 30, 2008) | ||
| Moosestang |
I just noticed mine seeping in the same spot, but it's not nearly as bad as yours. I always let my bike warm up for 5 minutes, but it takes way more than 5 minutes at idle to get the engine up to operating temperature. I'm going to take a wait and see approach, because it was all ready down for 2 days getting new tires put on. |
