| Author | Message | ||
     Darth_buell |
So I went ahead and put mobile 1 in the primary also after much debate. (manufacture recamendations and all) what a change. I didn't think it would change that much. much smoother shifting and easy to find neutral at a stand still. K I'm out  | ||
| Nillaice |
mobil 1, AYE? what grade/name/weight how's your clutch? i'm fraid of effing up the friction surface. how about shifting when the tranny's not at the right speed? (for example: down shifting/shifting into first/missing second and then trying to catch up to the ricer in front of you) any abnormal gear grinding? | ||
| Hammer71 |
Some owners had stator issues when using Mobil 1. Not sure if it was ever pinpointed as the problem, just to make you aware. There was a huge discussion about it here about 1.5 yrs ago | ||
| Ducxl |
Yeah...something about the oil and it's effect on the stator windings.Most disspelled the idea. I keep it simple and use the manufacturer's original recommendation and fill with Sportrans fluid.They now call it "Formula+" | ||
| Nillaice |
dispel the idea of damage to the stator or dispel the idea of changing the oil brand? | ||
| Interex2050 |
Good: Will not harm stator any more then the HD stuff  Bad: Will make shifting as smooth as butter but will destroy stators  If I recall correctly it has to do with the sulfur content being very high in the gear oil; which eats away at the insulation of the stator. Yet strangely enough does not affect the clutch. (Message edited by interex2050 on May 18, 2008) | ||
| Kenney83 |
not to get off topic but how does Amsoil work? my second job is a seller for them and i have it in my cars. anything negative? | ||
| Ironhead1977 |
I keep it simple, Amsoil mcv in all the holes. | ||
| Jos51700 |
Some would go so far as to venture that Syn3 is Mobil1. More than one factory person has told me this, but I've never seen any receipts or anything. And, some would go so far to venture that Amsoil is Mobil1, too. After all, "AMSOIL INC. markets the most complete line of synthetic lubricants..." Italics added by me, but statement quoted from Amsoil's own website. All they do is take preexisting oil, and hype it up (After marking it up!) Great for oil manufacturers, not so great for your wallet! (Ever wonder why they have "Nutritional Supplements, AquaBrite Water Filters, Pure Power cleaning products and AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer products" on their website as well?) Doh! We've been had!! If you do a little lookin', Amsoil claims to have developed the first API-qualified synthetic motor oil in '72 (http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/faq8.aspx), but if you look at the records (You can verify this with the API, but a quick n' easy read is found at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil), you'll see that Amsoil has "marketed" since the get-go! The American consumer has been decieved! And people laugh at me when I say, "Run what's recommended". I've yet to meet a mechanical or petrochemical engineer that doesn't run Mobil1, and I know Mobil isn't marketing someone elses oil! | ||
| Jos51700 |
what?  No!!!!  It can't be!!!! You're not my father!! (oops, wrong shocking revelation)  | ||
| Interex2050 |
Or if you are ever in doubt... buy Motul... Smells like bubble gum and is highlighter yellow! What more could you ask for... | ||
| Blake |
"Bad (Mobil-1 Gear Oil): Will make shifting as smooth as butter but will destroy stators " If you have proof of this, I'd like to see it. I've seen the same stator failure mode for OEM lubricants as I have for Mobil-1 gear oil. In that case, the Mobil-1 surely is not causing the failures. As stated before so many times, if any bare copper stator wiring is exposed inside the primary, then your stator has already failed. Period. | ||
| Jos51700 |
"Smells like bubble gum and is highlighter yellow! " I will now buy Motul, just to see/smell this. | ||
| Bombardier |
Blake, Have read the product descriptions on the Mobil USA site and it makes a definate statement that where gl5 is required then gl4 is not suitable and vice versa. The specs for one of the gl4 oils makes it very clear that its contents are designed to protect both alloys and copper from corrosion whereas this text is absent as a feature on the gl5 description. Reading between the lines it certainly looks as though gl5 may well be a problem for the stator corrosion. Also found this on a the Automotive Engineering website - GL5 is a different spec, and is not 'backwards compatible' with GL4. GL5 gear oil is a lubricant with very high extreme pressure performance needed for Hypoid gears where sliding and rolling contacts operate under very high loadings. This is achieved by incorporating high concentration of sulfurized additives. The downside to such high sulfur in oil is it tends to corrode yellow metals, so can ruin parts like brass synchronizers and some bushings. So any equipment needing GL5 performance is designed taking this limitation of the lubricant into account. GL4 oils are much more friendly to yellow metals, and so are used in equipment where such high load sliding-rolling contacts aren't present. The designers of such equipment aren't as limited in the use of brass parts. So the bottom line is that if your equipment calls for GL4 it probably doesn't need GL5 performance, and you may be asking for trouble down the line if you use a lube it wasn't designed for. (Message edited by Bombardier on May 19, 2008) | ||
| Darthane |
Take it as you will, but what Interex2050 said in his first post. Many of us simply run the same oil in both the case and the primary - in my case, Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W50 Synth. Blake, I agree with your statement regarding exposed copper, but once it's exposed, I'm sure that the sulfides are accelerating the process. What are our stators sealed with? It's possible that there is an additive in certain lubricants that actually attacks THAT, as well. Earlier Buell stators had a couple points in their design that seemed, at the least, poorly thought out (see Newfie's, among others). They've corrected some of them, but even on my stator there were things that I still feel could have been done better, and potentially one of those was ultimately the cause of my failure. I choose to take no unnecessary chances however, so given a choice, I'll take the lubricant that doesn't actively eat yellow metals, thank you very much. Oh, and yes, going to synth in the primary was a huge improvement in shift quality. None of my Buells will ever use dino in the primary again after experiencing the difference in two consecutive bikes. (Message edited by darthane on May 19, 2008) | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
As the results on this white paper attest, it is unlikely that Mobil 1, Syn3 or Amsoil is the same stuff regardless of who actually supplies it. I use Mobil 1 20w/50 v-twin in both holes, no problems.... http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf | ||
| Jos51700 |
"As the results on this white paper attest, it is unlikely that Mobil 1, Syn3 or Amsoil is the same stuff regardless of who actually supplies it. I use Mobil 1 20w/50 v-twin in both holes, no problems.... " I will never trust a published comparison by ANY manufacturer. "Independant Lab Tests" only for me, please. Even more so coming from a company that disguises it's own history against known fact... | ||
| Oddball |
I knew I didn't like Amsoil for some reason. One has to watch out, when a website contracts a case of VS it's closely followed by an infection of Amsoil.  | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
I will never trust a published comparison by ANY manufacturer. "Independant Lab Tests" only for me, please. you don't have to trust the results, but enough info is given that it is obvious that the oils are not the same regardless of who may have produced it. On the other hand, I don't see any of the oils tested refuting the results with their own tests either..... | ||
| Teddagreek |
Redline.... | ||
| Nautique4life |
What a great name for this thread. Potential can of worms: Anybody heard any negatives about Royal Purple? I run RP for the engine oil (which I am very satisfied with), but after becoming knowledgeable about some oils affecting stator windings, I am skeptical about using their gear oil. Perhaps it's a non-issue at this point. Formula + is proven to be safe. So I should just use that and not worry about it. Just curious I suppose. | ||
| Marko138 |
Is the Formula+ synthetic? | ||
| Interex2050 |
nope | ||
| Jos51700 |
"you don't have to trust the results, but enough info is given that it is obvious that the oils are not the same regardless of who may have produced it. " If you trust the info, why would you not trust the results? I'm not saying the info is right or wrong, there's just no way to know. Also, with a "marketer" like Amsoil, how do you know that oil you get in the first bottle is the same oil you'll get in the second bottle? I'm sure they price-shop just like everyone else... | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
I'm not saying the info is right or wrong, there's just no way to know. I agree with much that you say, but the fact that somebody else may put it in a bottle has nothing to do with it's quality. Your logic would suggest that since Buell didn't make your frame, we should all be suspect of the quality of the frame? While it may be a marketing piece it is unlikely to be pure fantasy as they would have been sued. It is easier to actually do the tests and twist the results to your favor than to create pure fiction. Besides, even though I do not use it myself, Amsoil is a fine product made from group IV base stock that does not require myth making. Here is additional interesting and independent reading on the subject. http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index. html http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0310_oil/index. html So all I am saying is that it is supporting evidence that the oils are not the same. If they were the same, I am sure they would have taken great joy in revealing that. (Message edited by scott_in_nh on May 21, 2008) | ||
| Darth_buell |
so from what I gather.... GEAR OIL shouldn't be in the same garage as a Buell, and mobile 1 v-twin MOTOR OIL is good in every hole except the gas tank.... I started this thread and since I took the plunge I keep noticing things that feel better in certain situations. IMHO Mobile 1 V-twim MOTOR OIL made huge improvements to the FEELING of my bike. I think it performs about the same but feels better shifting.  | ||
| Tbowdre |
I think Im done with formula+ in the primary | ||
| Marko138 |
I may have to try Mobile 1 in the primary. I'd love to have a little slicker shifting. | ||
| Jos51700 |
Scott_in_nh, good post! I just get cracked up when people say "This brand sucks, that brand is better" and such. I won't run Amsoil in my bikes, but it's not because I doubt Amsoil (although, I do a little, honestly), but because I just run what's rectamended for any given vehicle (My lawnmower does get the used Syn3 from my Buell, though). I wouldn't be opposed to Amsoil anymore than Castrol or Pennzoil or even WalMart brands in a pinch. I just run the OE brands because I figure if there were an issue on a new bike, it's coming out their own (warranty) pocket, and therefore they hold to a slightly stricter standard, as opposed to "aftermarket" brands. Just me, and none of you are wrong for having your own preferences. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Just me, and none of you are wrong for having your own preferences. I completely agree and using factory recommended fluids is a 100% safe thing to do. One of the reasons I chose to select other fluids is the same reason I select other tires and brake pads than what the bike came with. Better options than the factory could afford to include are available. ALL manufactured items are manufactured to hit a price mark. To hit this price, compromises must be made. This would be why my tuber didn't come with a Penske rear shock for instance. Does anybody here doubt the superiority of the Penske over the factory set up? Yet the factory shock is sufficient for the bike. Factory oil sufficiently protects the engine, but that doesn't mean it is the BEST oil for the engine that money can buy does it? |
