| Author | Message | ||
     Mr_gto |
I am putting in new springs in my forks. Does anybody that has rebuilt their forks on the XB have any advise before i start rebuilding my fork? Is there anything else besides fluid and seals that i will need to replace? My bike only has about 5k on it. If you change springs do you need/have to change rebound and compression valving? | ||
| Bad_karma |
Tim Check with Race Tech and get their gold valve for your forks, I believe that you will be pleased with the outcome. Joe | ||
| Mr_gto |
I was considering looking into the gold valve setup. | ||
| Jackbequick |
I went through the process of sorting out the Race-Tech offerings this winter. If you start here: http://www.racetech.com/shopping/shopdisplayproduc ts.asp?id=17&subcat=8&cat=Caddies+Fork+Suspension+ Kits&L2=Forks&L3=Caddies+Fork+Suspension+Kits&show Page=harley and use the product selector: http://www.racetech.com/evalving/menu/searchstreet .asp You can see the offerings for your bike. I was working on upgrading the older/less sophisticated 39mm damper rod style forks on my Dyna, your XB will have the newer cartridge style forks so you'll have to figure all the offerings and options out. I'm still waiting for the paint set to get my bike back together and road test it all but the forks really feel quite different in just playing with them in basement. I've never heard anything but good reports on the Race-Tech kits and springs. It all goes to improving control of the compression and rebound damping and using spring rates that better suit your weight and riding conditions so there is going to have to be some playing with the variables as you pursue it. But you should be able to learn from or cash in on the experiences of others there. Jack | ||
| Dbird29 |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/249047.html?1188735029 This just about covers everything and with pictures. | ||
| Nautique4life |
Wow, after reading those post from the thread Dbird linked, my mind is blown. That seems like a process and a half. For me, an average wrench turner that enjoys working on his bike, this might be a bit much. I think I could do it, but I dont know if I WANT to do it. With 9400 miles on my bike, it's getting close to that time huh? By the time I bought all necessary tools required to do this, wouldn't it be in the ball park of letting a service dept. handle it? (Not my local HD service though, I wouldn't trust them with my Huffy, which really is sad) I am aware it would eventually pay for itself, but to each his own. I know my Jims Tool exhaust stud drill guide has paid for itself already! This is something ol Nautique needs to think about.  (Message edited by nautique4life on April 24, 2008) | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
I like working on my bike, but I leave the suspension work to the pros. For one reason, I just don't do it enough to make buying the tools and learning how, really worth it. Secondly, the professionals often have some very good suggestions to make about setting up the whole bike that makes it very much worthwhile. What a lot of the guys are doing around here when it comes time to change the fork oil, is to consider upgrading their entire suspension. The universal reaction is that they wished they had done it sooner, like when the bike was new. The typical upgrade is: Front fork: Change oil and seals, new valves, heavier springs. Shock: replace with aftermarket unit, Penske seems to be preferred. Usually cost about $1500, but everyone who has done it said it was like getting a whole new bike. On the other hand, Saintly has posted a method to change the fork oil using only ratchet straps, and I think he will do it for other bad webbers for a $100 or so. Says it's pretty easy. Didn't look like it to me.  So, pay your money and take your choice. | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
I have done them, First fork is as expected. Couple bumps in the road. Second one was a piece of cake! | ||
| Spatten1 |
I need to change my fork seals. What did you guys use for seal drivers? | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/fork_sea l_drivers/ | ||
| Spatten1 |
Thanks for the link. I am still hoping, hopefully not in vain, that someone has a good Home Depot special tool that worked well. I'll be checking the diameter on quit a lot of pvc before spending $60 on a tool I'll probably never use again (once again!). | ||
| Hogs |
I would think the seals would be an easy thing to install... However I forget who sells the tool for compressing the springs, might have been Traction or something like that..or one or another?? Anyone know? Or a Home depot as ya say to do...DIY? | ||
| Spatten1 |
I'm going to use the Saintly method of spring compression: a ratcheting tie down. The seals generally take some beating to install, and the tool keeps them from getting deformed or turned sideways and ruining them. | ||
| Hogs |
Saintly method wd. ya have a link to that? Thanks | ||
| Spatten1 |
Yep, the link is about 10 posts above this one! | ||
| Mr_gto |
I dont think it sounds to hard. From what i have read from searching thru BW it sounds like you just have to be methodical and keep everything clean. I like the ratchet idea, i might give it a try and if it doesnt work for me i will just order the cheaper spring compressor from race tech. I am sure this will not be the last time i take apart a fork so it will come in handy one day if i buy it. | ||
| Jabooty |
anyone have the link on just changing fork oil? | ||
| Spatten1 |
I drove the seals myself tonight. Used 1 1/2" PVC. I cut a 4 inch piece, then cut it in half lengthwise. I tried sliding it, didn't work, not enough mass. Then I tried using both halves wrapped around the tube, hammering side to side. Didn't work too well either. I ended up using just one of the pvc halves, hammering it with a rubber dead blow, working in circles around the seal. Worked pretty well. The first fork took a long time, at least 2.5 or 3 hours, counting making tools and figuring out how to use the tie down as a spring compressor (used a bit of bailing wire through the holes). The second fork probably took 30 minutes, including figuring out better ways to compress the spring and drive the seal. Hopefully I did not harm the seals by not using the proper tool to drive them. Time will tell... (Message edited by spatten1 on April 25, 2008) | ||
| Spatten1 |
Mr_gto: You should not need new fork seals, unless you just want to replace them while the forks are off the bike. | ||
| Mr_gto |
Cool.Spatten1, thats what i was looking for. As far as i can tell my fork seals look good. I just need new springs and along with that comes fluid. Does anyone know what weight the race springs that Buell sells are? I am going to get a track only bike soon, i just need my bike to perform better. I am killing the stock springs right now. I dont want to spend tons on this bike as it will be my street bike. | ||
| Deadduck |
fork seal driver: 2" pvc I think (may have been 2 1/2) cut in half, hose clamp to clamp it onto the fork leg. then use a slide hammer approach and they go in easy and even. | ||
| Spatten1 |
I did about 100 miles and the seals are holding well. I guess 20 cents worth of PVC is good enough for the seal driver. I did go from the stock 5 weight fluid to 10 weight, cause I have a belly. Feels a bit stiff, even with dampening turned out an extra half turn top and bottom. Have to play around a little. Any advice about how to tune with the higher viscosity fluid? | ||
| Mr_gto |
I think i will replace the fork seals while i am doing the rebuild, just so i dont have to tear it all down again. I dont think i will change fork oil weight, i just might add a little extra fluid to stiffen it up a little like Blake recommended on another thread. Speaking of which, does any one know how much extra to add to stiffen things up a little? I know that the forks take 14oz of oil per side. I have heard of adding oil, just never heard how much, i assume its like every thing else you dont want to add to much or you will have adverse effects. |
