| Author | Message | ||
     Cold_iron |
i would like to remove my header on my 03 xb to get it ceramic coated along with the muffler. Anyone in the chicagoland area that could guide me through it? It looks to be an extensive job and maybe i could get some guidance as to the best and least time consuming way of doing this. | ||
| Blake |
It shouldn't be that tough. You'll first need to remove the chin fairing and then the muffler. Not sure how easy or tough it is to access the header nuts themselves on an XB. I suspect that a 1/4" drive socket wrench with appropriate extension(s) and u-joint should get you there. Just unscrew the nuts, two on each header-pipe, then carefully remove the header, pulling it off of first the front, then the rear cylinder header studs. Or vice-versa, whichever seems to work best for you. Don't be in a hurry, the header will come off if you take your time and tinker with it for a while in order to get a feel for the geometry. Be sure to remove and replace the gaskets. You'll likely need a screwdriver to pry them out of the counterbores where the headers enter the cylinder heads. | ||
| Blake |
I forgot about the O2 sensor. You'll also need to disconnect that before tackling the headers. It's tough to reach and may require you to remove the rear shock in order to get to it. | ||
| Blake |
It may be easier to go ahead and rotate the engine instead of removing the rear shock. | ||
| Glitch |
It may be easier to go ahead and rotate the engine instead of removing the rear shock. Trust me on this, rotating the engine isn't a big deal. I just don't understand the reasoning (fear?) behind folks not wanting to rotate the engine. 45 minute job, there and back. | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
+1 on rotating the engine, First time takes about an hour, after that you will do it in 15 minutes. I rotate the motor to do just about all the maintenance on the xb....It REALLY is NO big deal to do once done.... | ||
| Cold_iron |
can anyone list a step by step to get this done as efficiently as possible (engine rotate)? | ||
| Whitey04 |
I am from the chicago area and I have been pondering the same thing. How to get the rear header out also. Thinking of running a micron exhaust. Detailed engine "swing" help would be nice. Cold iron if you need a hand let me know, I turn wrenches for a living, just not on harleys, but this shouldn't be that hard. | ||
| Hmangsx |
I live in the Chicago area...sort of. Looks like I'm a little hike from where you're at though. Like everyone else has said, after you've rotated the engine once you'll realize how quickly and easily it can be done. I just installed a ceramic coated header on my bike about a month ago. I searched the forum and read everyones tips and suggestions until I had a good understanding of what needed to be done. I waited until the service manual I ordered arrived and then went for it. Having the manual definitely helps, especially for referencing torque specs. I'll see if I can remember the order of removal that I followed. -disconnect battery -remove airbox assembly. remember to disconnect the air temp sensor harness. also slide both breather hoses free. -remove tb velocity stack, two screws. -unbolt ignition coil, do not need to remove. also unplug o2 sensor harness while you're in there. -remove both right/left air scoops. remove chin spoiler. -loosen rear axle pinch bolt. loosen rear axle just enough(do not need to remove) to give the drive belt some slack. remove idler pulley. -loosen header to muffler clamp. remove front and rear muffler straps. remove muffler. -unbolt both clutch cable clamps at the front of the engine. be sure to keep an eye on the cable while your rotating the engine. make sure it doesn't catch on anything. -now get a jack under the engine. i placed it under the front muffler mount since i left it bolted on. this is the mount the front muffler strap fastens around. -unbolt and remove center(top)tie bar. -loosen rear isolator bolt but do not remove -remove rear tie bar bolt where it attaches to the frame. do not need to remove the rear tie bar, just this bolt. -now for the big V shaped bracket, i just removed the 3 bolts where it attaches to the frame. i did not remove the v bracket because i didn't want to disconnect the oil cooler lines, etc. you should have already removed the bolt from the front tie bar that had the clutch cable clamp. also be sure to snip the zip tie holding the idle adjustment cable to the v bracket. -now your left with the front isolator mount. make sure the jack is supporting the engine before you go any further. remove the isolator bolt or "jesus" bolt as some call it. it should come out freely if you have the engine supported properly with the jack. adjust jack height if necessary. -now you're ready to SLOWLY rotate the engine. go very slowly and stop every so often to check it over. make sure nothing is catching. watch the clutch cable to and make sure it doesn't get snagged by the primary case. Those are the basic steps I followed. If anyone sees anything I left out please speak up. Hope that helps you guys. Please feel free to ask any other questions you might have.  | ||
| Whitey04 |
thats a lot of work! Atleast it seems that way. | ||
| Toona |
Whitey04, don't be afraid. It's actually really easy. Follow Hamngsx's steps. The only thing I don't do is remove the velocity stack rubber and ignition coils. Then velocity stack will "flex" out of the way and the coils are fine in the bolted in position. I guess I also live life on the edge. I don't disconnect my battery.... The best jack to use is a scissor jack from a car. They are small, easy to get "just right" when installing the front isolator bolt. A floor jack will work, but they are big and take up too much space. | ||
| Evil_twin |
Northwest Indiana here. Work in the south suburbs. I switched mine out for a Micron and will be switching back to the stock here soon. It's (rotating the engine) really not as bad as it seems. Everyone here has already given you all the advice I could think of. Take your time and everything should work out. When you do drop the engine, if you don't remove the front fender, pay close attention to how close the front of the engine gets to the fender. You don't want to scratch it. If you need some help or have some questions, shoot me a PM and I'll give you my phone number and try to help you walk through it. I turn wrenches for a living too, so I didn't have too hard of a time with it. Rich  | ||
| Whitey04 |
I'm not afraid to do it just seems like alot of work for 2 nuts. Evil are you selling the micron? Or did you not like the system? | ||
| Cold_iron |
im gonna give it a shot, ill do the plugs, add the k&n, special ops pipe, while its all apart | ||
| Evil_twin |
I will sell the Micron, but I am waiting for Kevin. He is building a Drummer for me. I put the Micron on with a Dobeck controller and it will not run right. After all the money I spent, I refuse to spend another $3-500 on Direct link or ECMspy or what ever the kids are using these days to make that Micron work right. I am past the point of wanting to make more power and all that junk. I just want my bike to run good and run right all the time with minimal hassle. I will sell the Micron and possibly the Techlusion box, but 1324 has first dibs on the pipe unless he already bought one. Like I said, I am just waiting. Riding the bike as little as possible 'cuz I can't stand the way it runs. I get ten minutes down the road and am so p*****d off about how it's running after all the money I spent that I just turn around and take it home. Rich | ||
| Cold_iron |
of course after the header install and pipe comes the dreaded ecmspy... ill have to tackle that when the time comes |
