| Author | Message | ||
     Rkc00 |
Just picked up a nail in the rear tire. Only have 900 miles on it. Can I plug the tire? | ||
| Mikej |
This debate has been engaged several times in the past. Some will say plug and play, others will say replace the tire immediately, only you can say what your financial and physical comfort level is. Also some nails do more damage than others and if it really chewed up the threads then rubber is cheaper than skin. YMMV | ||
| Rkc00 |
The nail is dead center in the tire. There is no other damage other than the nail hole. | ||
| Misato |
I had the same thing. I plugged it, dead center. 1k miles on it and its ok. could blow out at anytime? dont know | ||
| Adam2 |
Had the same discussion on UKBEG recently. It depends on the size of your balls. | ||
| Ckj |
Who and wear do you go to get it plugged. No one around here will touch my rear tire. | ||
| Misato |
local parts store will have a kit. a good friend of mine plugged race DOT's and never had a problem. (and raced on them) | ||
| Chainsaw |
I picked up a nail in my original rear 207 at about 1,000 miles. Plugged it with a kit from local parts store. Checked the pressure 2 or 3 times a day for the first week till I trusted it to hold. Lasted till the tire wore out at 5k. I ran it at triple digit speeds for more than an hour on one occasion. Still held. Took a 4" screw in the rear tire of my Sporty. I tried plugging the big honkin' hole. A plug would only keep air in it for about 2 miles. Had to get towed and buy a new tire. I was in Mobile Alabama on a road trip at the time. I hear good things about "mushroom" type plugs. A local motorcycle tire shop here in Denver will put one in for $10. A mushroom plug kit with an insertion gun and plugs is about $50 from jpcycles.com. It's on my road trip wish list. Do what you're comfortable with.  | ||
| Timbo |
FWIW, I got a good size nail in my original 207 with barely 1,000 miles on it. My first thought was to pull the tire and have a local shop patch it from the inside. Trouble was, it was the night before a ride I was really looking forward to and all the local shops were already closed. I emailed my friends to tell them I wouldn't be coming and went to bed that night bummed that I was going to miss out. In the morning SB Jim emailed me saying I should try and plug it. I was very hesitant to do so, but I also really wanted to go. So I figured what the heck and jammed over to the store and bought a plug kit, and plugged the tire. I had thirty minutes before I had to leave to meet them at our first rally point and figured if it was still holding pressure I would go. It held and I went, taking an air gauge with me. Tire never lost a pound the whole day. In fact that tire lasted 3,000 more miles (4,000 total). Like I said, FWIW. Timbo | ||
| Gravedigger |
The last rear tire I had (D220), got a nail in it after about 50 miles. Used a patch and plug. Wore the tire out after 5K, no problems with the patch. It just comes down to what you are comfortable with. Keith | ||
| Hootowl |
I carry a plug kit with me on long trips. Never hurts. I only use them long enough to get home, then I replace the tire. Would it fail? Who knows? It isn't the patch coming out that worries me, it's the potential cord damage that may be there. I just don't feel good about riding on it. | ||
| Al_lighton |
Funny you should write this now, I just picked up a THORN today thru my mostly new BT010. A wood THORN!! The leak is so slow that even when I pulled the thorn out, it isn't losing air while stationary. I KNOW there isn't any cord damage, the thorn was BARELY long enough to make it thru to the inside. I'm definitely pluggin it. Fact is, I've never heard of ANYONE having a catastrophic failure due to a plug, it either holds, or it doesn't. If it holds for a week, it lasts the life of the tire. | ||
| Rkc00 |
What about using a tube and a patch on the inside of the tire? Where can I get the best price on a new tire? | ||
| Reepicheep |
I am running a patch in my D220 rear, for probably 1000 miles now. No problems. I once picked up a screw, which promptly rotated around and caught on my inner rear fender, ripping out the screw and notching the fender. This left a ragged hole, and I put in an plug from the outside. Rode the bike home and replaced the tire. On the next tire, I picked up a small finishing nail. Put in some tire slime so I could take a planned ride, worked fine but would slowly bleed down over a week or so. Pulled the wheel and found a local place that would take off the tire and patch it from the inside. Has worked great since. If it really is just a puncture, and the tire has a decent amount of life left, I would patch it. If it is a slice or a ripped out hole, I would replace the tire. You will probably be out $30 so to get the tire removed from the rim, patched, and rebalanced if you can find a place that will do motorcycle tires. I know one in Dayton Ohio if you are around there. | ||
| V2win |
RkcOO, Here is my experience with tire plugs. I picked up a screw in the middle of my rear tire on my S3T. The tire only had about 500 miles on it at the time. I was in a rural area with no houses in sight. I walked about a mile until I saw a farm. The farmer took me back to my bike and we loaded it up on a trailer and then returned to his farm. It was getting late and the lights on his old truck did not work so he invited me to stay the night and would take me into town the next day. As it turned out he had two twin daughters that were as beautiful as they were horny. After they wore me out with wild monkey sex all night, I was able to get into town the next day with my bike. There I was able to get the tire plugged and was on my way. I still have that tire on the bike but it is almost wore out. No problems and holds air well. | ||
| Kcfirebolt |
I had the same problem and quandry last winter. Nail in a new tire with less than 100 miles on it. Finally decided to plug. Used a mushroom style plug (had it done, didn't do it myself). The tire lasted another 4000K. No problems. I would do it again. | ||
| Cubby |
I plugged the rear tire on my XB9R and have had no trouble with it at all. Just make sure you use the INTERNAL patch with a rubber extension protruding through the hole to the outside of the tire then snip off the excess. I'm not cheap when it comes to replacing tires, but sometimes there's just too many good miles left on one! P.S. NEVER try to save one with sidewall damage. | ||
| Jmartz |
Center plugs will come out if you wear the tire down thin. I plug my tires all the time but will run one short if the hole is dead center. BTW I'm usually the guy with the threads showing. | ||
| Moboy516 |
It's not worth the risk. I had a plug come out at 130! Very scary ride. | ||
| M2cyclone00 |
I've plugged just about every rear tire that has been on my M2 over 30k. Two plugs in one of them. I've never had a problem, even at speeds over 100. But, I do tend to ride a little easier with a plug. We plugged a crazy Brit's tire on his Triumph Daytona. Immediately proceeded to do over 160. No problems! I always carry a plug kit on both my M2 & my truck. Plugged lots of car tires with no problems either. | ||
| Hootowl |
V2win... The next time I hear that joke, I can say "Hey! I know that guy!" | ||
| Rkc00 |
I plugged the rear tire on my XB9R and have had no trouble with it at all. Just make sure you use the INTERNAL patch with a rubber extension protruding through the hole to the outside of the tire then snip off the excess. I'm not cheap when it comes to replacing tires, but sometimes there's just too many good miles left on one! P.S. NEVER try to save one with sidewall damage. Cubby I had the tire plugged today with the INTERNAL patch with a rubber extension. Will let you know how it works out. Cost me $25. Michael FLHRCI_00 XB9S_03 Long Island, NY | ||
| Prs |
Rkc00, I recently had a small, perfect hole, dead center in the tread. Nail (or whatever it was) took a small chink from my fender. Tow truck took me to auto parts store where I plugged it. Then he towed me up the road for air (nice guy). Plug was holding fine but as a friend put it, "do you want it to fail going 100mph down the highway?" Tire was fairly new but for peace of mind I replaced it. Good luck with yours. Paul | ||
| Ckj |
Used the Green Slime and then today the tire blew out on the freeway - very scary and I have a green strip up and down the back of the bike. But it did last for about 4 days | ||
| Chainsaw |
Ckj, bummer dude. I haven't heard any good stories about Sliming tires. The last time i had a green streak on my tire, it involved luggage coming loose on top of the tire, having its contents chewed up by my Dunlop. My green streak was from Speed Stick Deodorant. | ||
| Epierce |
Chainsaw, I know this is a little off subject. But I need to take the front and rear tires off my 9R. I use to change tires all the time back in my drag racing days, long ago, but the Buell is a little different. For instance, what tool do you use to remove the axle? I read this board daily. I have read everything I can on removing the wheels from the 9R. Going to dive into it tomorrow. I have D208XR's to replace the stock tires. Save a bunch of money if I take the wheels and tires to the shop and have them mount and balance them. any and all help will be greatly appreciated. | ||
| Timbo |
Eddie, Look in your tool bag that is under your rear seat cowl. In there you will (should) find a what looks like a hollow bolt. That will fit into your axle and then you put a socket on the other end of it to loosen the axle. Make sure to loosen the pinch bolt first and make sure you have a torque wrench handy for when you re-install the wheel. set the rear axle to 50 ft-lbs. Also be careful with the belt, do NOT twist it when removing the tire. Honestly, you really should have a service manual handy and be using it when doing even routine maintenance. It will pay for itself many times over. Timbo | ||
| Timbo |
Eddie, Just noticed you are doing the front too. The "hollow bolt" in your tool bag works on the front too. The front is a reverse thread. There is an arrow on the fork to remind you but pay attention. Can't remember the torque on the front just now. Maybe someone else can chime in with it. Just make sure you set it right. Timbo | ||
| Docrecon |
Just pulled mine a couple days ago, if I remember correctly you'll need a 7/8" to fit the "tire tool". You'll access the "pinch bolt" from underneath, it "pinches" the gap you'll see on the R-side where you'll use the "tire tool". (I found mine was missing, BTW...) And heed what Timbo sez: be VERY CAREFUL with that belt, do NOT bend tightly or twist; if you don't have a manual, consider getting one but until then: you will !!!HAVE TO!!!!! loosen the rear axle approx. 15 TURNS and THEN remove the idler pulley; this gives you enough slack to then remove the belt w/o damaging it; you will of course have had to remove the outer belt protectors, and when you start on the front one you'll need to remove the bolts from the R-side chin fairing - you won't need to REMOVE the chin fairing, but removing the 3 R-side bolts will give you enough slack to get to the bolts that you'll need to remove to get the front protector off. You'll need Allen wrenches (all SAE I think) and several Torx sizes, 27, 25, & 20 if memory serves, plus the usual sockets, wrenches etc. SOME OF WHICH may be metric. Also note: for the rear belt protector, there is one screw that is accessed on the LEFT side at near the very rear, and these screws are Allen, NOT Torx. (Ask me how I know...) Also: when you get the idler pulley off, spin it over & see how it feels; if it's rough, you need a new one, and I'm working on a bike right now w/ ~4,200 miles on it that needs a new one; see my rant over at the ATC XB section. If I had a scanner I'd send you the manual pages, it's not just one section, you have to skip around to various places. BTW, manual sez to pull the R-side passenger footpeg mount, I found I didn't have to, although you do need to pull the R-side RIDER mount - the MOUNT, not the peg itself, the Whole Ball of Wax (two large Allen socket heads if I remember correctly.) Once you've got the belt off you'll remove the swingarm brace on the R side - it should be obvious, it's an integral part of the swingarm that you'll see has to be removed to get the tire off, but do NOT mess w/ it until you've got the belt off. If I had a scanner I'd post the manual pages for both front & rear tire removal/install on private webspace; I think it's ridiculous to make someone pay ~$60 just to access these most basic of procedures. Engine work etc. I got no prob w/, but hey - changing a friggin' TIRE????? Timbo wrote: Eddie, Look in your tool bag that is under your rear seat cowl. In there you will (should) find a what looks like a hollow bolt. That will fit into your axle and then you put a socket on the other end of it to loosen the axle. | ||
| Docrecon |
No experiential data to share as far as miles (or lack thereof) per plug, but... In the space of about 3 DAYS I picked up rusty nails in the rear tires of TWO BIKES!!!!! When I brought the first one in to a tire place that's handled non-motorcycle work in the past (small diameter nail ~2" long, straight in dead center of rear tire) the guy I talked to rode & advised me not to fix; since I already had a spare I opted to replace. However, the message apparently got waylaid over the holiday weekend and I got a call from John, who I've done biz w/ in the past, that he'd been able to fix the tire & did I want to mount the new one? Since I know John and since I know he rides a very nicely kept S1, I called him back and said "I think I'll just go ahead & do the fix." The 2nd tire was a Pilot Sport w/ ~600 miles on it that had a nail of the approximate diameter of the 1st but was about 1.5" long and was perpendicular to the tire, with the point ~1/4" into the tire near the centerline; I opted to have that one fixed too, relying on John's judgement if it was fix-able. When I picked up the 2nd tire John told me they'd probably hold OK but to be aware of the ride and if I ever felt anything out of the ordinary to check it immediately; he told me that w/ the patch the problem you can get is separation. He also told me that in a pinch for a simple puncture you can use a screw in the tire as an ad hoc "limp home" device. | ||
| Epierce |
Thanks a million Timbo and Docrecon. Your help is greatly appreciated. I will let you know how this turns out. Eddie | ||
| Epierce |
I have the torque specs: front axle 39-41 ft/lbs or 53-56 Nm Front pinch fastners 20-22 ft/lbs or 27-30 Nm Rear axle 48-52 ft/lbs or 65-70 Nm pinch fastners 40-45 ft/lbs or 54-61 Nm Once again, thanks for all your help Eddie | ||
| Epierce |
Timbo and Docrecon, Everything went well. The tires are off the bike and tomorrow I will take them to the shop and have the new ones mounted and balanced. (My next step is to purchase some tools to do this myself). The new tires should be on the bike tomorrow afternoon. I read in a post somewhere that I should put anti seize on the front axle. This does not apply to the rear axle? By the way Darthane, I put the bike on a 3/4 inch 4X8 piece of plywood. Mounted a two by four across the front and put two eyebolts in the two by four. Used tie downs to secure the bike. I used a craftsman bike jack to lift the bike (under the stock muffler). It worked okay, but the rear of the bike would pivot back and forth a little if I had to torque anything. A little scary, but it seems secure. | ||
| Darthane |
I'm glad to hear the idea worked. I probably won't get around to making it until closer to winter-time 'round here. I was toying with the idea of carving a 4x4 into the shape of the bottom of the muffler and lining it with thin rubber. It would probably make the rear a bit less prone to 'wobbling' while jacked up from underneath. Normally, though, I'd just be using the swingarm stand for the rear. So many projects, so little time...the joys of being a homeowner. | ||
| Timbo |
Glad to hear everything is going well Eddie, Doing it yourself is always better than paying someone, if you are able. Use anti-seize on the rear axle as well. You don't need to coat the whole thing just apply it lightly to the threads and where the pinch points are. BTW, I prefer to use anti-seize on all steel bolts that thread into aluminum. It prevents the dissimilar metals from fusing together. Timbo | ||
| Epierce |
This probably should go under rant and rave, but I have another problem with the dealer that sold me my XB9R. I took the wheels to a local shop and had the tires mounted and balanced. I wanted to see the old tires and as I was looking at them I noticed a plug in the rear tire. This was done at the dealership. The bike had 40 miles on it when I bought it from the dealer. They chose not to tell me that they had a flat tire while riding it, instead they plugged it and for the past year I have been riding with a plug in the rear tire. I know that a lot of you plug your tires. I have chosen never to plug my tires, I replace them when they are punctured. I cannot believe they did not inform me that the tire was plugged. I paid MSRP for the bike, 10,449.00 plus tax. I am really disturbed that this dealership would send out a new bike with a plug in the rear tire. This is one of a long list of problems I have with this dealership. Don't get me wrong. I love this bike, I am going to get a 12R....But you can bet I will not purchase it from Knoxville, Harley-Buell. | ||
| Prs |
Epierce, That is NOT cool at all. Just my humble opinion but a plugged tire on a bike should be used only when absolutely necessary (i.e. to get home and then to have it replaced). Others I'm sure disagree but it's definitely wrong to be sold a new bike with a plugged tire. And some sales reps wonder why the customers try and 'jerk them around.'  Paul | ||
| Ezblast |
They make a patch-plug one-piece that is highly recommended here in SF - plug through hole then iron patch part to interior - the tire shop who does my work said he has never had a problem with this fix as long as the hole is in the center area of tread - sidewall holes should have the tire replaced in his opinion - GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Docrecon |
Epierce, glad to hear you were able to get it done OK. As Timbo sez, I'd use antiseize on the rear as well, w/ the pinch bolt I wouldn't worry about it, and as T. sez, use it where dissimilar metals join, I noticed on the rider footpeg mount there was some slight fusing, I may take off all the peg mounts & antiseize 'em. I believe if I'd paid full-on MSRP for an XB & were sent off down the road w/ a plugged tire I believe someone would be wearing that tire in their nether regions even as we speak; that is NOT cool, and in fact I'd hope it'd be illegal. |
