| Author | Message | ||
     Jonnyrotton |
I say that I hope there is a problem with my bike because of it's horrible performance. I just bought a 2005 city x from a Harley/Buell dealer, with 19,000 miles. I was told that it had the race kit(filter,ecm,exhaust) It bogs badly from idle to 4,000 rpm when you whack open the throttle, or even roll on the throttle for that matter. It can barely lift the front wheel in 1rst gear!! and only then when you rev up to about 4,500rpms and chop the throttle and whack it open again and it comes up maybe 3-5". My intentions are not to go around wheeling everywhere I ride,I only used this example to convey to you guys the performance issue. I have read online that the city x should easily be able to wheelie in 1rst gear by simply rolling on the throttle quickly. Does this sound like a tps thing to you guys (i hope) or is this just the power delivery of the 9? The bike once past 4,000rpm's does moves along pretty good, and it idles well. Don't know if this makes any difference or not but the is no cover over the air filter. It has the body work which you can see the filter through but no cover over the filter. Looks like a K&N that has the nipple over the throttle body (Message edited by jonnyrotton on March 17, 2008) | ||
| Id073897 |
Go back to stock airbox, stock ECM, stock muffler. Do TPS reset. Check static timing. Ride. Be happy. Regards, Gunter | ||
| Punkid8888 |
The Factory race kits on the 9s changed the power band to almost all top end. Although it should not bog. I would start with a TPS reset and static timing, if both don't help then swap the race exhaust for stock, or something designed for more mid range power. | ||
| Spatten1 |
It should not bog. It will not have Japanese literbike power down low, but it certainly should not bog. With a 9 you will probably not have enough power to do a bounce wheelie to the balance point until probably 4500 rpm, but then it should snap all the way up with little trouble. | ||
| Etennuly |
I had a 2005 City-X with a race kit. I can tell you it should never do what you are describing. It should run like a stock nine to about 2800 RPMs and like a quick revving twelve to the rev limit. I would start with the basics. Get a Buell Service Manual. Do a complete tune up first, replace plugs, check wires, check wiring routing, Check plug at ECM. Put back what ever was taken off from the air box. Do a TPS reset. Put fresh premium gas in it. Do not use the BSM torque spec for the oil plug. I put the race kit on mine at about 5,000 miles. At first it ran great with a tendency to lean out at the top. Then it started to run poorly in the middle and better on top. When the race kit is installed a TPS reset is required as part of matching the kit to the bike. I didn't do it right away because it ran pretty good and sounded great. The more I ran it the worse it got. Did the TPS reset and it was flawless for the next 7000 miles. I sold it nearly two years ago and it still runs fine. | ||
| Chrisrogers3 |
Jonnyrotton, This may be pointing out the obvious but I had the same issues with my wife's 9s when I bought it. The guy I bought it from swore up and down it had the full race kit only to find out it was a stock ecm and stock intake with the pro series pipe. After I replaced the intake and ecm (and of course TPS reset) the bike did a complete 180. Personally I would take the plugs out and inspect them. You can tell a lot about how your bike is running just looking at the plugs. In fact I think the service manuals have a nice photo section depicting plug wear. | ||
| Eengler2 |
One other thing to look at for lifting the front wheel, is proper clutch adjustment. A slight imperceptible slip because of improper adjustment will make a HUGE difference in performance. Either get a service manual or just search here at BadWeb for the simple procedure. However, it won't fix your stumble problem. | ||
| Jonnyrotton |
Where is the race ecm located on the lightning? I will check to make sure it is indeed a race ecm. With the race kit are you supposed to take the airbox lid off? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Stock won't "power wheelie at will"... at least not for me, but I'm pretty heavy. If I am cranked over in a turn it'll lift pretty easy (side of the tire is a lower gear then center of the tire). If I chop then hit the throttle, it may come up a foot or so, depending on RPM. I'm too chicken to dump the clutch, I'm sure that would loop it easy enough. So I don't know that the "wheelie" part of the equation is a sign of a big problem, but it should bog very rarely and only when lugging the engine. | ||
| Chrisrogers3 |
Assuming the ECM is in the same location as my 03 9s, pull your seat off and it will be right tight up against your battery. Pull your battery out of the way and you should be able to see in white print "For Race use only" or something to that effect printed on the side of the ecm. If if doesnt have those words, further investigation is needed. From what I have been told is there were some race ECM's out there that dont have the "For race use only" disclaimer. | ||
| Spatten1 |
Chris is correct, you may have to get a good Buell parts guy to track down the serial number to tell you if it is a race ECM or not. | ||
| Raymondt |
When I have fouled plugs and am running on basically one cylinder at low rpm there is a bog as described. New Buell Pro Series plugs and a set of racing wires from Iron Machine, cured this for good. | ||
| Spatten1 |
Don't listen to Ray, he really rides a Vespa, in a dress. | ||
| Jonnyrotton |
So I do have the race ecm, and found out that I have the open air box conversion as well. Do you guys know what size socket the spark plugs take? | ||
| Brent_crossbronkos |
Snap On's 5/8 swivel spark plug socket part number S9710KB makes the job a whole lot easier - especially for the rear plug. | ||
| Sgthigg |
hehe he is gonna really love it when he gets to that back cylinder... You definetly need the swivel socket. Also make sure you got the plug wire back on all the way until is gives a little snap. Actually now that I think of it Buell upgraded th eplug wires. You might as well and get the better wires too. They are only like 15 bucks or something Good luck | ||
| Spatten1 |
a relatively inexpensive 3/8" swivel adapter and a long extension should be fine for the back plug. | ||
| Pwnzor |
Make sure the air filter is clean and oiled, spark plugs are good, no bananas in the exhaust pipe. Then you should be ok. | ||
| Buellinachinashop |
get a spark plug boot tool ulness you have a 5 year old with alot of dexterity. | ||
| Spatten1 |
Good point, you will want the socket to have the inner rubber that holds the plug as you ease it through the obstacles. | ||
| Raymondt |
I noted in my manual after damaging the stock wires that you should with the stock wires. Slide the boot carefully up the wire to expose the metal spring catch under the boot. Grab directly on the spring catch with needle nose pliers to both remove and attach the wires. Slide the boot back down over the plug when you are done. | ||
| Raymondt |
After damaging my stock wires I made a note in my manual to remind me. With the Stock wires. "Slide the boot carefully up the wire to expose the metal spring catch under the boot. Grab directly on the catch with needle nose pliers to remove or attach the wire from the plug. Slide the boot back down over the plug when you are done". |
