| Author | Message | ||
     Cataract2 |
Hey, can anyone give me a list of all the gaskets and items that would need to be replaced to go the base gasket on the rear jug? | ||
| Cataract2 |
Anyone? | ||
| Jos51700 |
1 Base gasket 1 head gasket intake seals 2 pushrod cover orings 2 exhaust header gaskets 1 lower rocker box gasket 1 middle rocker box gasket I usually do the breather seal too. They've updated it a few years back. I think that covers it. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Figure I should get the upgraded front rubber mount while I'm at it. | ||
| Jos51700 |
I wouldn't unless yours is bad. That's easy enough to change later. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Well, I figure since it will be off.... | ||
| Jos51700 |
If you want to go ahead. It won't technically be off, unless you're removing more screws than you should to do the re-do base gasket. You're only pulling the Big Ass Bolt to rotate the motor, but, cost aside, there's no real reason not to replace it. | ||
| Spike |
If you're going as far as removing the rear cylinder (rotating engine, pulling intake/exhaust, etc) seems like it would be worthwhile to replace the gaskets on front cylinder at the same time. If the rear gasket is leaking it probably is the old paper gasket, which means the front would be as well. The new base gaskets should be metal. If it were me I'd want both the cylinders to use the new gaskets for peace of mind. As an added bonus, if you're doing both cylinders you can skip buying the individual gaskets and just get a top end gasket kit. It's been a while since I looked up any of these, but it should be just one part number that has all the gaskets you need to reassemble the top end. | ||
| Spiderman |
Hell, why your at it put in a 1050 kit  | ||
| Cataract2 |
Spider, as much as I would like to. I'm currently looking at adding the 1125R to the stable. |
