| Author | Message | ||
     Jamesg |
Hi, I searched the site and archives but couldn't find this directly addressed. I mostly commute on my '06 Uly about 3 miles each way once or twice a day, so it does alot of barely reaching operating temp. before cooling off again. Ever since it got cooler (I live in Columbus GA, where I ride year round), I've noticed a bit of water contamination "slime" on the inside of my oil tank's cap/dipstick. Since there wasn't any on the walls of the tank I could see, I figured it was just condensation on the plastic cap, so was content to just clean it off at oil level checks. Well, last weekend I rode the bike to NG drill for several hundred miles thru some pretty heavy rain and cold temps. When I got home, not only was the cap slimed, but there was also gunk on the neck and walls of the tank. The oil itself is dark and not milky, but its still disconcerting to have that much junk in my oil. Is there a way that rain water could have entered the tank? Is there a tank vent or something I haven't IDed? How do I get this crap out of my oil tank? I had just changed the oil (Valvoline VR1 15W-50) so please don't tell me to change it. lol! Will just running the bike up to operating temp and then opening the oil cap to let it evaporate work? TIA, -James | ||
| Punkid8888 |
I am thinking 3 miles will not get the bike even close to operating temp. The fan might be coming on but that does not mean the oil is at its correct temp. Also the longer it at its operating temp the more time it have to burn off and evaporate the moisture that condensates inside the engine and the oil tank. I am thinking that this long trip got the oil hot enough that all the condensation from everywhere inside the engine became unstuck and mixed with the oil and then pumped into the tank where you see it making it seam like it got worse. Also riding in 100Percent humidity does not help either. I think you need to change out all you fluids (Primary is probably the same) and try and ride it for a good 30mins at a bare minimum each day you plan to ride it. This will hopefully combat your moisture problem. I would also suggest changing your oil more frequently; I imagine it will take an oil change or two to get rid of all this moisture that has accumulated through out the engine. To give you an example, my truck is run for one hour in the morning and one hour in the evening on my 35-mile commute, plenty hot right. I still get tons of that moisture gunk in the oil filler cap area in the winter. Only in the summer I will be clean. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Been there. Nearly had a heart attack when I saw what drained. Mental note, if I'm stationed in GA again, change the oil more often. | ||
| Jos51700 |
The tank is vented, but through the engine. 3 miles is the exact perfect distance to heat the oil enough so that when it cools off, condensation forms, but not hot enough that it boils out any water..... Sorry, but when you drain your oil (Hey I said "Sorry") take it on a 30 mile ride first, and drain it HOT (don't burn yourself). Water in the oil creates various acids, that are BAD. Get it out of there. Either find a very scenic route to work (20+ miles, the longer the better), or ride your bicycle. Chicks dig the "green scene", right? If it's only 3 miles, you can probably knock that out in 15 minutes on your bicycle....and save pricey Uly tires for a more enjoyable trip. | ||
| Jamesg |
Thats really not an option. My bike(s) are transportation, not weekend toys. I have noticed that it has been clearing up after leaving the oil cap offset to allow the water vapor to escape after getting it hot. Just have to remember to go put it back on within an hour and riding off with it loose would be really bad... | ||
| Etennuly |
I agree with what the others have said. First you must get that oil changed if it is 'milky'. That is death for friction surfaces in the engine if left for too long. And you will have to make very frequent oil changes to keep it from wearing things out prematurely, or change your riding route to include more miles in order to prevent this problem from reoccurring. This isn't a "Buell thing", it is an "every engine with a small quantity of oil that is run under the conditions that you have posted, thing". Good luck with that. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
riding off with it loose would be really bad... I wouldn't know. Ask Barker though.  | ||
| Clutchless |
Jos51700 is right. that gunk is pretty much water and oil mix. Check out the parking spots outside of gas stations while its rainning real hard, there will be the same white slimey goo that you find on your dipstick from cars leaking a nice oil film onto the pavement. I also find this on the primary covers (derby, chain inspection cover) on other harley motors. Important thing to note. To counter act the energy the bike has to expend to start the motor, you should be riding at least 10 miles to FULLY (I do mean like FULLY like 13.7 volts, you can get by with much much less) charge the system back up to par from hitting the start button one time. Much like you need to run the bike and keep it at high running temp for a good 5-10mins to "purify" the oil. So short rides not only take their toll on your oil but your battery as well. do like I do...drive past work and wave about 25mins before you need to be there, do a couple laps around town, it doesnt matter, this will give you some quality time with your bike as well. | ||
| Aeholton |
Take a longer commute. Enjoy an extra 10 minutes or so of riding taking the long way home. | ||
| Mtch |
i have similar happen to my 12Scg commuting 15 miles a day. i took the option of riding the bike further every day. the other option is to use my yamaha fzs 600 which i commute on most of the time, however it was off the road for a while as the exhaust was rotten. 2 weeks of 15 miles a day cause the emulsification of the oil so i changed it (and the oil filter). basically ride it further, or use a smaller bike which will warm up quicker. | ||
| Jos51700 |
"My bike(s) are transportation, not weekend toys. " Without being familiar of your situation, but knowing you go 3 miles to work, and presumably 3 miles home, a bicycle would still be a viable option. Buell made a couple of bicycles at one time, too. | ||
| Jlnance |
Is there a way that rain water could have entered the tank? Probably not. But, when the bike is running the case is filled with blow by gases from combustion chamber. These gases are primarily carbon dioxide and steam. If your engine is cold, the steam will condense back into water, essentially raining inside your engine. During your ride in the cold heavy rain, it is at least plausible that the water hitting the outside of the engine and oil cooler kept it from every getting hot. This would cause water to accumulate inside the engine. How do I get this crap out of my oil tank? I had just changed the oil (Valvoline VR1 15W-50) so please don't tell me to change it. lol! Will just running the bike up to operating temp and then opening the oil cap to let it evaporate work? If you've got a lot of water in there, you'll probably have to change the oil. If you're going to take a bunch of 3 mile trips, particularly in cool weather, you're going to have to change the oil often. Don't bother using expensive oil if this is the case. It will help your oil and battery if you take a long ride on the weekends. When the oil gets up to operating temp, it evaporates the water, but even at temp, the oil is usually below the boiling point of water, so you have to keep it there for a while. | ||
| Punkid8888 |
Another thing you should try is blocking the Oil cooler with a piece of cardboard or something. This will help the bike warm up faster in your short commute. Just remember to take it out if you plan on riding it for a long time at low speeds. |
