Author |
Message |
Schmitty
| Posted on Thursday, February 21, 2008 - 06:18 pm: |
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For those of you who have changed your oil pump drive gear, what do I need to remove to get the cams out? Do I need to remove the cylinder heads, pushrods, lifters? What do you use to get the nut off of the pinion shaft without rotating the whole engine? Drop some knowledge on me! Schmitty |
Spiderman
| Posted on Thursday, February 21, 2008 - 07:17 pm: |
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Do I need to remove the "cylinder heads" NO "pushrods, lifters?" YES Get a manual and you can see all the steps but a cliff note would be this. Rotate the motor after removing the muffler. Then the header and the rocker boxes. Remove the cam cover and remove the cams. I use a impact gun to remove the nut but they sell a tool that locks the crank. BUT Get a manual, has all kinds of pics and all the specs and tourqe values you need! |
Schmitty
| Posted on Thursday, February 21, 2008 - 07:32 pm: |
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Thanks Spidey, I've got the manual, but I was a little unclear as to what needed to come off to remove the cams. The impact doesn't rotate the whole crank? I figured the crank would have to stay in place to keep the cam timing marks lined up? Schmitty |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, February 21, 2008 - 07:39 pm: |
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You can move the crank, it's all keyed and marked. So you can rotate it back to the right position any time. |
Hogs
| Posted on Friday, February 22, 2008 - 04:15 pm: |
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To change the gear on the pump to the new Bronze, Does one even have to remove the cams? I had thought just drop the oil pump and change the gear on the pump or is it NOT the gear on the pump but on the Crank one changes to the Bronze? |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Friday, February 22, 2008 - 05:24 pm: |
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IIRC from swapping the bronze gear in my tuber, it goes on the crank. Pump gear stays put. Looking at the pic in the accessory catalog, it has a keyway - that tells me it goes on the crank. Wow. Memory is still working today You should be able to pull just your rockerboxes and rocker plate, and cheat like I did. Couple feeler gauges rolled the lifters right up out of the way for cam reinstallation, the weight of the pushrods wasn't enough to cause problems and it was easier than trying to rubiks-cube them out of the engine/frame. I didn't pull the lifter blocks (again, tuber) because I didn't want to open up for any new leaks. Big thing is to unload the valvespring pressure from the cams before trying to remove or reinstall the cam cover. If you do remove your pushrods, make sure you keep them in order and put them back where they came from! |
Slaughter
| Posted on Friday, February 22, 2008 - 05:31 pm: |
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Some decent pics on NRHS showing cam changes that might give you some ideas. http://www.nrhsperformance.com/tech_xlcaminstall.s html All this being said - manuals are CHEAP insurance! |
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