| Author | Message | ||
     1324 |
Well I tried and tried to break that drive pulley nut loose. I soaked it in PB Blaster for over 24 hours, had both myself and my wife on the bike, and chocked the wheel...NOTHING! I will either have to buy or make that tool...is there a place I can order online or is a Buell dealer the only avenue? | ||
| M1combat |
Just cut a piece of metal to the correct length. I "think" it's something like 4-7/8". Don't run that much torque through the trans. | ||
| Saintly |
If you're talking about the final drive sprocket nut, its reversed thread(clockwise loosens). Use an impact gun with the tranny in neutral, It'll come off. I've removed twenty-two of them. | ||
| Hexangler |
RTFM buddy!!! Been there, done that should have read the manual. Al at American Sportbike has what you need! Support our sponsors! Hex | ||
| Pwnzor |
American Sport Bike | ||
| Bads1 |
If you're talking about the final drive sprocket nut, its reversed thread(clockwise loosens). Use an impact gun with the tranny in neutral, It'll come off. I've removed twenty-two of them. +1 | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
Just go to any metal shop and ask them for a piece of aluminum flat stock. 4-7/8" long x 2" wide (give or take as it wont matter) They probubly have a piece in the trash can that would be perfect. Buying one would be silly as it isn't even worth the price of shipping for the metal. | ||
| Jackbequick |
It is 4-1/8", not 4-7/8" (although the latter may work). I made mine (and several I've given away) out of 1/4" thick laid up fibreglas that was in the scrap bin at one of the local boat builders. Jack | ||
| 1324 |
1. I read the manual, thank you very much. 2. I am fully capable of comprehending reverse threading. 3. I only tried a couple times to loosen (a couple different ways). Nothing too drastic. 4. I have no compressor/impact tools. If I had, I would not be posting. 5. I have only seen the tool in the manual photo, but I'm having a tough time figuring out what the tool holds. Does it contact the sprocket teeth? Is it really just a flat piece of bar stock with a hole in it? I'll go take a look at the bike and see how I can make something up. | ||
| Saintly |
1324, Can you clarify for me which it is you are trying to remove. Is it the primary drive sprocket on the engine? Or is it the final drive pulley on the tranny? Just about everyone in this thread is advising you on how to remove the primary engine sprocket. But when you say: a) "pulley nut" in your first sentence b) soaked it in pb blast (primary nut have would already been soaked in primary oil) c) "chocked the wheel" d) "just a flat piece of bar stock with a hole in it?" (primary lock bar needs no hole unlike final drive tool) I am led to believe you're trying to remove the final drive pulley nut(the one for the belt) Which is the case? | ||
| 1324 |
Saintly, you are on the right track. Sorry for any confusion. By drive sprocket, I meant final drive sprocket, so yes, the one that drives the belt, NOT the primary. Thanks for making sense of the situation, because I was wondering how a flat plate would have worked in my situation. Ahhhh. Thanks for the words of wisdom all, because yes, if were trying to loosen the primary sprockets like I imagined, I should just be shot. Anyway, I went downstairs and looked at the bike for a few minutes and managed to get the nut loose. I backed the rear tire up against a 6x6 post I have in my basement, chocked the front of the rear wheel, and used some soft nylon rope to loop between the post and the top vertical spoke on my rear wheel. Tranny in neutral, pushed down on rear brake, turned nut right off. There was a considerable amount of corrosion on the nut face and every part of the sprocket, hence making my job harder. I got a little worried after I broke it free because I smelled gear oil...but lo and behold, the inner seal 'race' slid out with the sprocket. After inspection though, everything seems good. Of course, I will now need to make a tool to restrain the sprocket so I can torque that nut down (unless you guys have any tips). Oh and before anyone bashes my method, let me be the first to state the disclaimer: if you don't want to over-stress your belt and wish to reuse it, don't use my method; make/buy the proper tool!!! I am changing my belt so I had no worries if I trashed it! | ||
| Roadkingtrax |
Georges Garage http://www.georges-garage.com/ | ||
| Rootintootin |
I looked at the georges garage site, didn't see what he was looking for. The service manual says to contact Kent-Moore for all HD, J, or B prefix tools. Not a chance if you don't know the secret handshake. Try Andy on the sponsors page. He told me once that he could get whatever tool you wanted. I don't know if that policy still holds or somebody told him he couldn't do that. Be prepared to spend some serious money as they don't give any of them away. I haven't seen the tools in person either, but from the photo in the manual, it appears to rotate over the flange on the outside of the pulley to engage the teeth on the rearward side of the pulley and uses a screw to attach to one of the cover screw holes to hold the pulley and holder tool in position. I see you have a 2003, are you changing to the later belt? If so, you would probably need a different holder, My 2004 manual says to use a P3/Blast holder (tool # B-43982)with the spacer and screw from a 2003 Firebolt to fix the tool to the bike. | ||
| 1324 |
I noticed that too, Rootintootin. I am in the process of doing the belt conversion, so yes, the newer tool would be required for the larger sprocket diameter. If I can't buy the tool for a decent price, I'll just make something...or rig something up like how I got the old one off...but kinder to the bike. | ||
| New12r |
I used a parking brake adjuster lever out of a chevy truck and ground it to length, cost me $00.00 | ||
| Hexangler |
sorry i was an ass. | ||
| Saintly |
Charlie, P.B. adj. lever? Please elaborate how you did this. |
