| Author | Message | ||
     Cringblast |
I have decided to take a track school for first time. Part of the bike set up requires to safety wire oil drain plug. So I have to drill mine or get another and drill or buy a plug that matches the 07 XB12R. Any recommendations on stock plug size or just get another from the dealer and drill a hole. Thanks, C. (Message edited by cringblast on January 22, 2008) | ||
| Slaughter |
Just drill the plug - simple with a drill press. Tougher doing it free-handed. Shouldn't be too expensive but since you have to drain all your oil out when you pull the plug, it doesn't really matter whether you drill your original or anothe plug (you can save a few bucks and a trip to the dealer and just drill your original drain plug) Tip: Buy a dozen 1/16 drills. Even with huge skill, you'll need a few. You're probably going to be drilling other stuff like brake caliper bolts, axle pinch bolts and axle bolts... and I know I busted a few drills. All organizations I know of also require wiring the oil filler cap too. (Don't ask me how I know!) | ||
| Cringblast |
Slaughter thanks for the info. I got a drill press with a small vise attachment. Gonna use punch first then drill. I'll get a bunch of bits and go slow. The oil filler cap needs safety wire also but figured that no big deal drillen that. (I have read other posts from ya so I understand how you know.) Thanks, C. | ||
| Xbcrazy |
It is also recommended that you safety wire your oil filter. K&N makes one with a nut on the bottom that allows wire to pass through. Otherwise, you can just put a hose clamp around the OEM filter and wire off the end to a fixed item on the bike. The oil sensor at the front of the motor works well. (Don't ask how I know...Ouch!) Pete | ||
| Surveyor |
Make sure you lock wire the front caliper mounting bolts and brake pad retaining pins. | ||
| Mtg |
I'll add one suggestion to Slaughter's post: get cobalt drill bits, they tend to last longer. Also, for the front caliper bolts, since the heads are countersunk, I bought longer bolts and drilled through the end of the shank. The stock front caliper bolts are 3/8-16 x 1". I'd recommend 3/8-16 x 1.25" stainless steel. (Message edited by mtg on January 23, 2008) | ||
| Ccryder |
MTG: Just a word of caution here: You do realize that caliper mounting bolts can be pretty stressed. Replacing them with SS bolts can create a problem. FWIW, most SS bolts are not as strong as the low carbon originals. Neil S. | ||
| Mtg |
I'm a mechanical engineer. I did the calcs and, conservatively, have a factor of safety of 4 for yielding with a 2g stop with 304 stainless bolts. That's a factor of safety of 12 for the bolts actually breaking. That is a good point though, stainless steel is not as strong as low carbon steels. | ||
| Ccryder |
MTG: What grade are the OEM bolts? Hopefully the bolts that are substituted are 304 but, most people think SS is all created the same. As a fellow ME I have lived through some sad times when someone just replaced a bolt with SS because they though SS was better. Neil S. | ||
| Cringblast |
Got the 1/16" bit's drilled the hole's for oil drain plug, oil filler cap and adjacent bolts no prob. Got all put back together. Please no rain for Saturday. First track time I hope !! Thanks for all input, C. | ||
| Nuerburgringer |
I've done a ton of track schools in CA, none of which required safety-wiring anything, certainly not caliper/axle bolts. New Racer schools of course are stricter, a school which culminates in a race license. If your track school requires wiring the drainplug, you might wanna drill the tranny plug while you're at it, just to make sure they don't make a fuss when they discover that you have one of the very few sportbikes with separate oils for engine/trans. |
