| Author | Message | ||
     Rocketsprink |
I started a similar thread a while back about rebuilding my 9R race bike engine. It has 10,000 miles on it (not all from racing). I was considering doing the 12 crank option. The motor has been pulled and is sitting on my work bench. Started to take it apart. Took the primary cover off and was shocked at how clean the inside was. Sure, the typical small amount of metal shavings on the drain plug, but nothing too extreme. Took some of the top end apart and it too looks like new. I change the oil and primary fluids after every race weekend. I purchased the bike used, so how it was treated before I got it is a mystery. The only issues I had last year were a few false neutrals, which I'm sure were my fault and the last 2 race weekends on a couple of occasions, when I hit the starter, I'd get a metallic clunk. I'd let go of the button, hit it again, and it was fine. I expected to see a tooth or 2 missing from the starter gear or the gear behind the clutch assembly, but was relieved to see them both intact. But that brings up the question of "what the hell is that sound from?" So now I face this question. What the hell route should I take? Do I give the engine a once over and put it back in? Do I rebuild it stock? Do I spend the $1000 or so to do a 12 crank transplant? I really truly do not want to split the cases, although a full rebuild would require that as well as a 12 crank rebuild. I have the time. I have MOST of the ability to do it. I have friends that are Buell and Harley engineers, but they have their own projects, so I don't want to pester the crap out of them. Then there is the H-D tool#123xyz thing. I don't want to invest a lot in tool s I'll use rarely. Can't afford to send it to Hal's or another builder either. I suppose I could replace the valve springs to be safe. Pull the heads and look at the pistons, things like that. Just fishing for ideas and the "what would you do in my situation thing." The last thing I want is to stuff the motor back in and have it let go next season. Although other then the clunk, which I'm hoping is the starter, the engine didn't give me any other problems. Thanks for your time and ideas. Rocco | ||
| Slaughter |
Big bore, short stroke (unless prohibited by rules) lighten/balance flywheel The quicker-responding 3.125 stroke is well worth the effort. Besides, you're giving up reliability by trying to get too much HP out of the long stroke motor. | ||
| Buellinachinashop |
"what the hell is that sound from?" I too ran into that noise, especialy when it started getting cold and when my bike sat for long periods. I found that the noise disapeared with a fully charged battery. I'm not saying that's the solution, but it seemed like the "clunking" was a louder version of a car "clicking" while trying to turn over on a dying battery. How hard is it to replace a starter if that's the problem? | ||
| Rocketsprink |
Starter is easy. Pull off the primary cover and loosen the 2 allen bolts. After disconnecting the power of course. | ||
| Rocketsprink |
BTW, thanks for that bit of info. | ||
| Dtx |
Well, if you are going to dig into it, you might as well replace/update the crank bearings (bottom end). Those are what failed on my track bike which required total engine rebuild. It wasn't cheap. | ||
| Bad_karma |
Rocco If you are happy with the engines power. Do a leak down test and compression tests. Go over nuts and bolts good. If all is well spend the money elsewhere. Now if on the other hand your not satisfied with the power look for a 1050 kit, head work, performance cams and race exhaust. This is short of splitting the cases. Joe | ||
| Buellinachinashop |
Rocco, If this problem turns out to be something a little more mechanical than a battery, could you post it here? Now I'm a little worried. | ||
| Rocketsprink |
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