| Author | Message | ||
     Rocksham |
I plan on changing engine oil and filter every 2500 miles. Should the primary oil be changed earlier also, like at 5000 miles? What about the other items? This is my first V-Twin. | ||
| Hdbobwithabuell |
I change engine oil about 5k and primary at the same time. It usually shows signs of moisture by then. More so if ridden in the rain. I use Mobile 1 synthetic. Another $8 every 5k miles isnt much to feel all warm and fuzzy. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Anecdotal evidence suggests that Mobil 1 may cause failure of the stator, so many members are now using Harley Formula +, as recommended by the Motor Company for the Primary Chaincase. Changing engine oil when one changes tires seems to be about right if you are using soft sport tires, and easy to remember. An often overlooked item is the clutch cable, and the ferrule that goes into the clutch handle. This can corrode so that it doesn't rotate in the handle, and then fatigue and break the cable. A little grease on the ferrule and some oil down the cable will help. Checking tire pressures, 36 front, 38 rear. and checking the belt for alignment, wear and holes caused by sharp little rocks is always a good idea too. | ||
| Rocksham |
Thanks, I will be using good old dino oil. I learned my lesson on a Kawasaki with syn oil. I guess if you change the primary oil every engine oil change, you might as well check the primary chain and clutch adjustments? What special parts/tools do I need to do the TPS reset? I don't think the dealer did it at the 1000 mile service. I was thinking of uping the front pressure to 38 psi. I am starting to some cupping with 2100 miles on the stock Dunlop 208's. The suspension feels (rides) fine. Do you set the sag on a Buell to 32-35mm, like a rice burner? | ||
| Mdm |
The stock tires suck its not the pressure. They will be toast and unsafe @ 3000miles, no joke. | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
Gentleman_Jon, I believe the anecdotal evidence with regard to stator failures concerns the use of Mobil 1 75W80? gear oil, and not the Mobil 1 15W50 motor oil. I could be wrong though. | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
You have it right there JLB... VDSTS Is needed for a TPS reset, If ya live near me I will do them free of charge, Like a dealer SHOULD DO.. | ||
| Hdbobwithabuell |
Rocksham - As already stated the stock Dunlops DO suck. I've got around 11k on my front Scorp. Sync. It is cupping a bit but still handles 100% better than the stock tire ever did. I always check the primary and clutch adjustments when changing the oil. Again... all warm and fuzzy for a few minutes work. | ||
| 07xb12scg |
Thanks, I will be using good old dino oil. Good idea! My Buell has mysteriously started to eat oil after the switch to Syn3. Before that it ate absolutely no oil. And from posts I've seen online, this hasn't only happened to me! | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Rock, A couple of small points. 1. When checking the primary chain and clutch adjustment one must be careful not to strip the screws on the inspection covers. The factory torque settings are MUCH too high, the screws are steel and the cover is aluminum and the screws are a bit short: all this leads to easily stripping the screws. The fix: get some longer screws, (I used stainless allen heads), tighten just snug, use Blue loctite. 2. The adjustments for the clutch and primary chain have been updated. a. Clutch: use 1/2 turn out. b. primary chain slack: several experienced mechanics have reported that they prefer about 3/4" hot. 3. You need a special program, and a laptop or PDA to set the Throttle position sensor. You may be able to find a Bad Webber near you who has the gear, or you can buy the set up at American Sport Bike, one of our sponsors. If your Harley dealer doesn't sound real familiar with the process, go somewhere else. Usually, the idle adjustment must be reset after a TPS reset. 4. Give your self a treat, and just get rid of the 208's. Look at it this way - you have about $40 worth of tire on your bike, and it is spoiling your entire ride. You will thank your self for spooning on a new set of good tires. Don't increase front air pressure. 5. 32-35 mm sag is good. Lot's of guys start out with the Shawn Higbee Aggressive rider settings, a good place to start.  6. If you weigh 200 lb or more, or like to ride aggressively, the "competition " spring set is a good idea and not too expensive. 7. I assume you have the Factory service manual, right? If not, it is a good thing to have. The parts book is surprisingly useful too, because it has exploded parts diagrams that are very handy when putting it all back together. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Anecdotal evidence suggests that Mobil 1 may cause failure of the stator This is true for Mobil 1 gear oil (75W-90). AFAIK, no one has ever accused Mobil-1 15W-50 car synthetic or Mobil-1 V-Twin 20W-50 motorcycle synthetic of causing these failures. That said, I like Formula+ fine and am using it in the primaries on both my S3 and XB12X.} | ||
| Pso |
I use Formula + in my Uly and Scg. I like it fine and it seems lke a cheap price for peace of mind. I have used Amsoil for th eengine and like it alot, might continue or switch to mobile 1, not sure yet. | ||
| Rocksham |
Gentleman_jon: Thanks for the good info! I have the Long Ss, so I think it has the stiffer springs? I will try the suspension adjustments -- I'm currently using the owner's manual chart specs. I'll check the tech section when it comes time do the maintenance for pointers. I did buy the factory service manual -- Good idea about the parts manual! Too bad Clymer's doesn't have one for the Buells. |
