| Author | Message | ||
     Ft_bstrd |
Looking to use the Traxxion Dynamics kit: http://www.traxxion.com/store/detail.asp?product_i d=CFTK Has anyone used this kit? Is it worth using? | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
For some reason or other, you laid down a bad link. Should be: http://www.traxxion.com/store/detail.asp?product_i d=CFTK That being said, Saintly has a way of doing it without the kit. Or he will do it for you for just a bit more money than buying the kit. The kit looks good though, if you want to do it yourself. Never actually seen one. The last time I had my forks serviced, I took advantage of the opportunity to replace the seals, upgraded the spring, and had the shocks revalved, while the forks were off the bike and being serviced. Was a good investment. Trackside Engineering did the work. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
What did they charge, if you don't mind my asking? | ||
| Typeone |
I'm having GMD Computrack do mine for the 10K service. Heard nothing but great things about them from Loudon racers. No way I'm trusting an HD tech with my Showas  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Costs? | ||
| Lost_in_ohio |
Speaking of Springs.....does anyone know of an after market source for fork springs for a Long? It seems that Buell does not offer a race spring for this bike. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Is the long different than the S? | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
GMD did my forks. Set them up for my weight, all new internals, Total cost was 630.00. They are a huge improvement. Very confidence inspiring, great feel, Pete in Bellingham did mine. Good people there. | ||
| Norrie |
I've used the Traxxion fork spring compressor. Very easy to use although you will need a second pair of hands. Takes less than a couple of hours and that's including taking them off the bike and taking time to do them seeing as It was the first time I had done them. I only used the fork spring compressor as you don't need any of the other tools. http://www.traxxion.com/store/detail.asp?product_i d=FSCK I was told you needed a bleed tool but you don't. A syringe would be handy to set the levels but I just used a steel rule to measure from the top of the forks. Norrie. | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
I have the spring compresion tool and the Syring tool for filling the forks up. I already took my forks apart a couple months ago, Thought I messed them up after a get-off on the buell. With these tools a service is as easy as can be. I actually like doing service on the forks. It is good to see what is going on in them forks. | ||
| Etennuly |
From what I saw and heard on posts about this subject a few months ago, some posters stated that they saw little or no reason to change the fluid at 10,000 due to it's "unused" condition. Those of you racing or using the bike on dirt, or using the bike really hard should probably stick to the original plan. My bike is at nearly 16,000 all highway miles and the suspension is working great. I plan on doing the service at 20,000 and installing new fork seals at the same time. What do you guys think? | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
I am glad that you brought this up, Vern. I have always wondered why the fork oil needs to be replaced after 10,000 miles since there is no combustion products, heat or anything else that I know of that is affecting the oil. I mean, most car manufactures recommend a 7000 mile interval on the ENGINE oil, which, it seems to me, is working a lot harder, and subject to a lot more contaminants than fork oil. And a Vern points out, the forks usually seem to be working fine at 10,000 miles or more. Any one know what the story is here? | ||
| 12r |
I'd agree that the fork seems to be working fine @ 10k mi but after I changed the fork oil in my Firebolt it was like having a whole new front end - smooth, well damped, compliant and responsive. The stuff that came out was nothing like the oil that went in, so either it's some foul liquid put in by the fork manufacturers or the fork really does have a hard time. | ||
| Fdl3 |
OK, I am going to get flamed for this (and perhaps rightly so). I did my first fork oil change on my 03 Firebolt at 55K.  As I stated in Fatty's double post in the the Uly section  , I expected the fluid to be sludge. What a pleasant surprise, then, to find the oil just a tad darker, but no worse. It still flowed fine. Of course, flowing fine and being fine may be two separate things. I know the new fluid was a tad better than the old as I had to tweak my suspension settings a bit. The new fluid was a tad firmer than the old. But if I had known how "good" the old fluid looked before I did the change, I personally would have waited longer - maybe even to 100K. Seriously. | ||
| Steve_mackay |
I'm having GMD Computrack do mine for the 10K service. Heard nothing but great things about them from Loudon racers. No way I'm trusting an HD tech with my Showas Really? I'd have absolutely no problem having my forks done at Hals. Terry Galigan or Danny Bilansky seem to know what they are doing better than most  They are also sponsors of Badweb as well. | ||
| Typeone |
well, you're correct, the blanket statement was a bit much... i should have added 'local' to my HD tech comment  they had trouble mounting tires on black wheels, not so comfy handing over my forks. | ||
| Steve_mackay |
Just bustin' your chops there Typeone. I understand the situation at most dealerships isn't like Hals. I'm lucky to be so close to Hals. I have absolutely no worries handing my bike over to them for service if need be. But I do request to have Bilansky do the work. Hals does have several more than competent Buell techs there. But Danny knows these bikes inside and out better than any tech out there I'd bet. Nice guy to boot! | ||
| 1324 |
Funny this question should arise. I'm picking up an 03 XB9S next weekend with about 8700 miles on the clock. I was going to be an over-achiever and change the oil...but should I just wait (at least until winter)? | ||
| Fullpower |
I would not worry too much about the oil, you will have frequent opportunities to change the oil each time you replace the FORK SEALS. | ||
| Smokescreen |
I have always wondered why the fork oil needs to be replaced after 10,000 miles since there is no combustion products, heat or anything else that I know of that is affecting the oil. There is a lot of heat that gets produced by the suspension. You ever see fork warmers? They are designed to operate at certain heat ranges. Thus the different grades of fork oil. If it was simply a matter of lubrication, wouldn't any grade oil do then? Look at racer's forks. The sliders change colors like they were titanium or something! Hope that answers a little for you Jon. Your quite resourceful, I'm surprised you already didn't know that. Smokescreen | ||
| Typeone |
this same topic was being discussed on another forum today... here's some info copy/pasted from GMD with their recommended service intervals. --- To perform at its peak, a chassis needs regular maintenance. Oils degrade over time and the loss of performance is difficult to detect. Unlike say a flat tire, which is obvious, as the oil breaks down and loses damping the performance drops off in small increments. Also, you are riding as the oil is being broken down, so it is difficult to detect the change until the oil is changed and the performance restored. Regular service will not only maintain the performance, also will prevent unnecessary repairs later on. Typically fork and shock fluids should be changed twice each season. Complete rebuild service should be done each winter. The suspension linkage bearings should also be serviced each winter, as well as the swing arm bearings and steering head bearings. All of the bushings and bearings in the chassis are checked with each GMD measurement. If your Tech finds any mechanical problems with your chassis they will discuss it with you when your measurement and estimate are reviewed. Many rider and racers will change the motor oil every race or 1000 miles but will use the same fork and shock oil 10,000, 20,000, miles or more. When the oil is finally changed, thin black metallic fluid is drained out taking bits of fork material with it. Often many more expensive parts now need to be replaced. With off road bikes we have seen many owners wait until after the fork or shock stops leaking before servicing. Often this will wear out the sliding surfaces beyond repair making expensive replacement the only option. Road Bikes Service interval: Fork & Shock fluid-once each year Fork & Shock rebuild- each winter Chassis service- each winter Road Racing Service Interval: Fork & Shock fluids-Twice each season Fork & Shock rebuild- each winter Chassis Service- Each winter Off Road Service: Interval Fork & Shock Fluids-Twice each year Fork & Shock rebuild- each winter Chassis service- each winter (Message edited by typeone on June 13, 2007) | ||
| Naustin |
Replace my fork/shock oil every year, not including when I rebuild by shock and forks every winter?  nagannahappen. | ||
| Etennuly |
Forks and shocks are like most other mechanical things, they are going to last a certain number of cycles. Those number of cycles are going to depend on the cleanliness of the oil, speed, temperature and severity of pressure on the oil being squeezed through the valving. When you use them hard regularly, or race them, or expose them to the dirt that will inevitably get in off roading, yes, change is needed often. But I believe that commuter riding on good roads do not warrant changing so often. When I do mine at 20,000 I'll let ya know how it looks. | ||
| Lost_in_ohio |
Here ya go. Stiffer springs for more aggressive ride. Kit includes two front springs and one rear shock spring. Fits '05-later XB models (except '05 XB12Scg, '06 XB12Ss and XB12X). 12ss is a big NO | ||
| Dbird29 |
Just ordered the parts for a fork service from American Sportbike. The ease of swapping Jackelfox's suspension(s) has inspired me to get my 10K service done 10K late. |
