| Author | Message | ||
     Cheesebeast |
Howdy all, I put the specified amount of torque on the three bolts that holds on the clutch inspection plate and it appears one bolt is now stripped. I guess a Heli Coil kit is the answer, but I was hoping to buy it online but I don't have my service manual, the bolt in question, or a parts manual to refer to here at work. Does anyone know the correct size for this bolt? Can I drill and tap the hole out without removing the primary cover? I would like to avoid doing that, but if it pushes in a huge amount of aluminum chips into the primary then I guess I have no choice. AGGHHHHHHHH. | ||
| Jackbequick |
It is 1/4-20. The Helicoil kit comes with a 5/16-20 tap, that is the thread the helicoil insert screws into. Then the internal thread in the insert is 1/4-20. Did you see the recent thread on nevrenuf's similar problem? That has some more info on this: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/282424.html?1181173840 Jack | ||
| Cheesebeast |
Thanks so much, Jack. HeliCoil inserts have saved my bacon in the past. This is fortunately my first problem of this type with the Buell. Best to you, Cheese | ||
| Cheesebeast |
Oh, and thanks yet again for the Ebay link in the other thread(oh, pun). The kit was still available so I got the kit for a great price. BadWebbers are the best! | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
A couple of small points. 1. Neither the shop manual or parts book would have given you the size of this, or any other fastener. Seems like they would rather have you wait a couple of weeks for your dealer to order one, than let you know what you can get at the local hardware store. 2. Stripping these screws is all too common. There are three reasons for this. One is blind adhesion to the factory recommended torque value, and the click torque wrench which is not too accurate a low values, results in over-tightening Two is, I believe that the factory supplied screws may be a little short. After you get the rest of the screw out, stick a toothpick in the hole to check the depth. I would not be surprised if you have a couple of useful threads left. Be sure to use blue loctite, and just tighten the screws till they stop, and then just a bit. We are not tightening down cylinder heads here, right? Three, the use of mild steel screws and no loctite creates a corrosion situation that weakens the threads. You might want to change to stainless screws which react less with aluminum, and use some loctite to separate the metals and keep air and water out of the threads to reduce corrosion. Learning how to feel when a fastener is correctly torqued is, or used to be, one of a good mechanic's stock in trade. There really is no excuse for stripping these screws that only have to be tight enough to stay in the hole with a little blue loctite. If the manual is calling for more torque than feels right for this kind of hold in place application, it probably is wrong. Happens all the time.  Stainless allen heads on the timing side. Just my .02ยข | ||
| Cheesebeast |
Thanks Gentleman_jon, I was using torque as specified without paying attention to the feedback. When the bolt started to go "soft" I should have felt it and stopped. I didn't make this mistake with the oil bolt on the swingarm- that just felt like too much torque and I stopped before any unpleasantness occurred. That torque value was certainly too high. I think the bolts on my clutch cover on my XB are stainless- or perhaps they are chrome plated? I should have used loctite, no doubt. I will when there are "small" numbers listed for torque values from now on. Some learning experiences are more painful than others... Thanks for the tips- I do appreciate it. I will measure the bolt depth. Maybe I will get lucky? Best to you, Cheese |
