| Author | Message | ||
     Rus |
My brother had a XB9R that he never rode, so he just gave it to me. It only has 7 miles. I was going to drain gasoline, oil, replace with new, and put in a new battery. Anything else I should do or check? Is there a full owner's manual anywhere online? Thanks guys! | ||
| Hammer71 |
All fluids, including brake fluid. Check tires for any dry rot and so on. If it has been sitting around check the exhaust for any furry things that may have crawled up in there as well. Service manual isnt available online per say but it can be bought from sponsors here for around 40 bucks or so. Not to say it is or will be an issue but check the belt for any cracks and inspect it on a regular basis. Also it's basically a new bike so break it in and ride easy to make sure everything is up to par and let you get used to the bike ( I'd give it a hundred or so miles) then beat it's ass. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
In addition to doing everything Rich has mentioned, you might enjoy reading these notes I made a couple of years ago, after I owned an 03 Nine for 13,000 miles. As I can never find it in the Bad Web Archives, I will post it once again for your use. I beg the indulgence of those old timers who may have seen this post once or twice before, as well as those who might note that it is not as current as when I wrote it a couple of years ago. 1. The dealer situation. The Buell dealership situation is in flux. At first most Harley Davidson dealers carried Buell. Many of them were not too enthusiastic about the brand, so Harley is reducing the number of dealers, to increase the importance of Buell at the dealers that actually carry them, and provide better support to Buell customers. The other dealers can no longer repair or sell Buells, and many of these have sold off their ‘03 Buell stock at low prices. The result: there are some excellent Buell dealers out there, but relatively few of them, very few. That’s the bad news. The good news is that the new XB line of Buells are well made, reliable, need little service, and parts are very readily available. Virtually all required service can be done by a motivated owner with an ordinary set of tools, bike stands and the shop manual. The ideal situation: buy your ‘03 leftover from a Buell Dealer who actively supports the brand if you can find one. 2. Bad Web If you have got this far, you probably realize the one of the best resources for the Buell owner is the Bad Weather Biker web site itself. The knowledge Vault has excellent discussions of every aspect of the Buell motorcycle. The Brag Organization is a great owners group that sponsors fun events around the country for Buell owners, and there is the Buell Customer Support line which is improving all the time. The number is 414-343-4056. Expect the best. The questions most asked by new owners are: A. The first thing to do. I always recommend buying the shop manual and parts list if you plan on working on the bike yourself. This is a bike that lends itself much more than Japanese or Italian sport bikes to home repairs, due to its inherent simplicity, and design. Parts are normally readily available, and not too expensive either. One of our member sponsors, Daves, ( Dave Stueve at Appleton HD), regularly monitors this board. He is very Buell knowledgeable, very helpful, and a great source for original and after market parts. Trojan Horse, ( Matt) and American Sport Bikes, (Al Leighton), both also sponsors, are great with after market parts too, many imported from Europe where Buells sell better than in the USA. 1. The belt. If you bought the bike new, it probably has the original belt. These often had a relatively short life, and have been replaced by an upgraded model that seems to be much better. If the bike has more than 3000 miles on it, it may already have the new belt. The '03 belt is now in it's third version, part number # G0500.02ABR. The belt parts number is permanently marked on the outside of the belt. If you don't have one of these, you might want to fit one the next time you change tires, cost about $136 from Daves. Lots of hard riders, such as Glitch, one of our leaders, has tons of miles on his, no problems. With the latest '03 belt, the conversion to the '04 belt doesn't seem to be as necessary, but many brothers have done it for peace of mind.The conversion requires new sprockets, belt guards, belt, and a few other parts. Daves or Al can give you an estimate of what it would all cost. Another option is a chain conversion, which has been much discussed on this site: see the knowledge vault. B. When you do change tires. Take a look at Dunlop Qualifiers, Michelin Pilot Powers, Pirelli Diablo, or Metzler M-3's: many members report better steering and longer life with these than the original equipment Dunlop 207’s. I am now replacing my first Michelin Pilot Power rear tire, and I was very happy. I got 4200 miles out of the rear, including one track day, and they still work great, just running out of tread in the middle. ( I subsequently converted to Dunlop Qualifiers for better handling). Several brothers have learned the hard way to always replace tires in pairs: the front may look ok, long after the rear is obviously worn out, but its profile will have changed, compromising handling. 3. Steering bearings: The steering bearings on the Buell tend to require tightening from time to time. The symptom is a clunk when you put on the brakes, that is often mistaken for a problem with the brakes. Takes about ten minutes to adjust as per the shop manual. The top triple tree is a bit delicate on these bikes, and have been broken more than once by over-tightening: the pinch bolt only needs about 18 ft/lb. Now a days a torque wrench is pretty much a standard item in the home garage. The front forks must be off the ground to do this properly. A rear wheel stand, and a scissors jack under the muffler jacking points is a simple way to do this. 4. Wheel bearings. Long story short: if the seals are orange, you are good to go, if they are black, they should be replaced by any Buell dealer at no charge to you. 5. The lubricants. The oils that seems to be preferred by many of the members are : Mobil 1 15w 50 in the motor, Mobil 1 75w90 gear oil in the gear box. These are available at Walmart very inexpensively, especially in the 5 qt. jugs and the Walmart Super Tech ST4967 oil filter was exactly the same as the factory part, (manufactured by Champion), last time I bought some for two bucks apiece. I change every 4000 miles, probably a bit excessive, but it can't hurt, and doesn't take very long to do. Factory recommends 5000 miles between changes. Certainly every year if your mileage is less than 5K. You can’t go wrong if you simply change the oil and filter every time you replace your tires. NOTE: There seems to be some anectdotal evidence that Mobil One Gear oil may cause premature failure of the stator insulation. I now use Formula+ from Harley. 6. Suspension settings. Because of its somewhat radical frame geometry, the suspension settings on a Buell DO count! You can assume that they are not set just right for you, so go to the owners manual, ( shop manual not required for this one:-), and follow the directions. Shawn Higbee has some settings for aggressive riders which work great too, and I use them. See Knowledge Vault. 7. Dipstick. The dipstick is located on the top of the left side of the swing arm: no kidding:-). Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to read. I put some yellow shrink wrap on mine to aid visibility. Using a little wooden coffee stirrer and comparing it to the dipstick markings works even better. 8. Frame Pucks: The Buell OEM frame pucks will keep you from denting your frame if you accidentally drop the model. They can be painted to match the plastic or the frame. These are really a must have item, because it is not to heard to dent the frame if you drop the bike, and it is very difficult to repair, and expensive to replace. That should get you up and running for a while, while you plan how you want to personalize your mount: it IS legal to run a bone stock Buell, it's just that no one has ever tried it:-). First 1000 mile service. I take a preventive maintenance point of view to this service, which takes place shortly after the bike is broken in, and the new owner has pretty much got the hang of things. So in addition to the factory recommendations, which are basically change the oil and filter, check and normally adjust the primary chain, and reset the Throttle position sensor, I recommend the following be done at this time. a. Fit the factory “race kit”. In spite of its name, this is more of a “make it a bit more fun to ride on the street “ kit. Improves mid range, makes it sound like a motorcycle instead of a lawn mower. Easy to fit, works fine. Requires a TPS reset, and removing the belt tensioner, so this is as good a time as any to do it. There are several other aftermarket mufflers, D+D, Drummer and Jardine to name just a few, that are louder and have found favor with many of the Bad Webbers. b. Replace the belt. Why worry about the belt breaking when a new better one only cost $140, and you already have the tensioner off. c. While you are replacing the belt, you have done most of the work to remove the rear wheel, you might as well replace the original Dunlop 207s, which only have about 1000 mi left on them, with some better tires like those mentioned above which will greatly improve the handling, and last twice as long. d. check the steering bearings. The have probably started to loosen a bit, even if you haven’t noticed it. After doing this additional work you will have a bike that: 1. Sounds cooler 2. Runs faster 3. Steers much better 4. No belt worries 5. Mostly likely will not need anything but gas for 4000 miles:-). | ||
| Pso |
Rus congrats on the new (to you) bike. Gentleman Jon-Nice comprehensive write-up. | ||
| Jandj_davis |
Wow Rus, you are one lucky SOB. I need to find me a brother like that. Congrats on the new ride man. | ||
| Rus |
Thanks guys! Great info here. I got the service manual today, and also put in a new battery. I started it up for a few seconds. Tomorrow I am draining the gasoline, oil, and brake fluid. Can I use Syn3 20W50 for the motor and gear box? I have five qts of it, but some people told me it is not good for the break-in period. I also have some H-D DOT5 silicone brake fluid, but the manual says to only use DOT4. Does anyone run DOT5? My wheel bearing seals are orange. I went to my local H-D dealer today, and they didn't have the service manual or filter, so did an extra hour of driving to the nearest Buell dealership to get the stuff. The H-D place said they can't even get Buell parts ordered anymore. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Rus - 1. Under NO circumstances should you mix DOT 5 silicone brake fluid with DOT 4 which is glycol based. They will interact in a very unfortunate manner. 2. Orange wheel bearings are good. 3. Most authorities on the subject recommend using regular oil during the first 1000 miles or so. After you do switch to synthetic, the Harley Syn3 oil will work fine. Mobil 1 works well too, and is less expensive and more widely available. Most Bad Webbers are using the 15W50. 4. Harley recommends the use of their Formula + in the primary. It works well. There is some anecdotal evidence that some synthetics may cause problems with the stator. 4. Here is an alternative breaking method that you may like to know about: http:// www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm 5. There are a lot of oil filters that will fit on your bike, here is a list of them, in a recent thread on this board. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/278459.html?1180057455 Good luck with your new bike. | ||
| Rus |
Thanks again Jon. I have brake fluid all along the line from my rear master cylinder reservoir to the bottom of the master cylinder. Should I care, or just clean it off and change the fluid? --- does it normally leak in this area? (Message edited by rus on May 25, 2007) | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Do you mean that there appears to be a leak in the brake fluid system, and that brake fluid has leaked out of the rear brake fluid reservoir down to the master cylinder? If this is the case, this is a fairly serious problem for two reasons: 1. The brake fluid itself is rather corrosive . 2. Any leak in the system will prevent the brakes from working properly. I would make sure that there is no leak first. It is possible that the rear reservoir was overfilled, but doubtful in a new bike. First clean up the fluid, then check the connections between the reservoir and the hose, the connection between the hose and the master cylinder, and the hose and reservoir themselves for leaks. Then while gently pushing down the brake lever look and listen for any leaking fluid. If possible to put the bike on a rear wheel stand, try to see if the brake pads are closing on the disk. Make sure your eyes are protected. I don't think I would add any fluid unless I was pretty sure I knew exactly what the cause of the presence of the brake fluid on the line was. Having a leaking rear brake reservoir, with the attendant dispersal of brake fluid on the belt, tire and rear disk, is not a pretty picture. This needs to get fixed before adding more fluid or riding the bike. Major safety issue here. If you are not really sure what the problem is, just call up that brother of yours, and tell him to get it fixed.  Just kidding of course, but this really needs to be figured out before adding fluid or riding the bike. | ||
| Rus |
I would guess it leaked out at the top, near the res, then just ran down the line. Cleaning it up now and we'll see how it goes. Thanks again. | ||
| Ducxl |
Hey Rus! Welcome. Great bike,congratulations! You MUST check th.........nevermind...with only 7 miles on the clock your headlight reflectors MUST be just fine  | ||
| 07xb12scg |
There is some anecdotal evidence that some synthetics may cause problems with the stator. Where can I read about this? | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
07 - Since this board has been around longer than the XB line of motorcycles, almost every imaginable question about them has been asked, and the answers archived somewhere in the Bad Web archives, usually in the Knowledge Vault. I normally have the best luck using the "GoogleBadWeb" search function, located at the very top line of this page. For example, I selected the "Google Bad Web" search engine, then typed in "Mobil One stator" on the top line, which took me to this page: http://www.google.com/search?as_q=mobil+one+stator &hl=en&num=10&btnG=Google+Search&as_epq=&as_oq=&as _eq=&lr=&as_ft=i&as_filetype=&as_qdr=all&as_nlo=&a s_nhi=&as_occt=any&as_dt=i&as_sitesearch=www.badwe atherbikers.com&as_rights=&safe=images As you can see there are quite a few entries that discuss this problem. The consensus seems to be that some of the anti wear additives, the sulfites, in Mobil One cause premature stator failure, by attacking the yellow metals in the stator. Another approach is to go directly to the Knowledge Vault, and then search by subject. Any way you do it, there is an incredible wealth of information on this site. Thanks to Blake, Glitch and the other board administrators. | ||
| Rus |
I put Formula+ in the trans/primary, and some H-D branded 20W50 in the engine. Will change that out to Syn3 after 1K miles. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Sounds good Rus, Actually, your post jogged my memory just now, and I remember that on my last XB, the top of the rear brake reservoir just vibrated off. I don't think there is a locking clip on it as there is on many similar reservoirs. Incredibly enough, one of my buddies spotted it in the parking lot of the Seven-Eleven, and not a drop had spilled out! | ||
| Rus |
Hi Jon. I think that's what happened to mine. I guess it just got loose from sitting there for years without being in a climate controlled garage. No leaks since I cleaned it and tightened the cap. This morning I drained the fuel. It sure shoots out there when you remove the allen head drain plug. Be aware of that if anyone else tries this because I got sprayed.  Have any of you guys had trouble removing the clutch inspection cover? I took out the 3 screws, but the thing wouldn't budge, so I just put 28 in through the primary inspection cover. I tried to get it off again this morning, but just added some more scratches trying to pry the thing off. | ||
| Sparky |
To get the clutch cover off, try squirting penetrating oil around the perimeter of the cover. Then insert a metal rod into one of the holes and gently tap it with a hammer alternating left and right until it breaks free. Or if the metal rod just fits in one of the holes, try gently levering the cover off through the hole. Or tap the cover with a plastic headed hammer and the vibrations should loosen it. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Good suggestions, Spark! Might be a good idea to get a spare gasket before going any further, as when they are stuck like yours, they can often break upon removal. Rus - several members have reported stripping the screws which attach the clutch cover to the primary chain case. I believe this is because the stock screws are steel and a bit short, resulting in corrosion and failure of the few threads on the primary case that they actually engage. A fix is to use longer screws with a bit of blue loctite and a minimum of torque. If I recall properly, the torque suggested in the manual is a bit high. I recommend stainless steel allen head screws. Sticking a toothpick into the holes, and comparing the length of the hole to the length of the screws will show what I mean. Unfortunately I forget the length I use. 28 ounces of Formula + will very likely do the trick, but unlike many other bikes, the actual physical level of the oil in the primary case is critical to correct operation of the clutch, so adjusting the level as shown in the shop manual is important. Of course this requires that the clutch inspection cover be removed. | ||
| Rus |
Rubber hammer didn't work, penetrating oil didn't work, but the metal rod in the hole worked. I used the back of a drill bit, and it came off after a few taps. I added the rest of the Formula+, so now it has all 32 ounces from that bottle. I guess I drained it good, because until I added the rest of the bottle, it was lower than the service manual says it should be. I'll probably get some of those stainless screws too. Thanks guys! (Message edited by Rus on May 28, 2007) | ||
| Rus |
Are these seats prone to tearing? After one ride, the seat tore where it meets the frame on the right side. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Rus, I don't believe the seats are prone to tearing at all. Before you replace it, you might want to take a look at the Buell Firebolt Custom Seat.  It is a whole lot more comfortable than the stock seat, which reminded me of a vinyl covered brick. It does add about an inch of seat height though. Good for tall guys, but not necessarily good for everyone. | ||
| Rus |
That seat looks good, but for now I am just going to gorilla tape the rips, then see how I like the seat and decide if I want the taller one. I rode it 1.5 miles today (slow through a neighborhood), then I noticed the check engine light came on, so I brought it back home. After I let it cool down, I started it up again, and now it stalls after running for a few seconds. From reading a few posts on here, I think it might be the fan, but when is it supposed to run; always? I think that is why the seat ripped also. I just took off the seat and that side was really hot, and all ripped up underneath, near the top of the engine. I hope I didn't do any permanent damage to the engine. | ||
| Hammer71 |
Fan doesnt run all the time, Have the TPS reset. Also look around here for the check engine light. There are two pins that you ground out and you will be able to check what codes its throwing. If you find someone around your area that can reset the tps then they can check the code as well. Willing to bet thats the issue. Fan will come on at certain temp (dont remember what) and then shut off. If it doesnt ever come on then worry. Right side of bike gets hot (exhaust right there) and the vent holes are right there by your legs. | ||
| Rus |
Would the TPS make it get hot enough to melt the seat? I looked at it in the light today, and it is definitely melted on the right side where it is close to the engine. | ||
| Rus |
When grounding pins 1 and 2, I got error code 36; the fan. After replacing the fuse, I heard the fan run for the first time after a short ride. Thanks for the help guys! |
