| Author | Message | ||
     Humboldtblast |
Well just did the 10,000 mile check up with new diablos and fork oil....but now when i get up to 90+ it starts to wobble a bit in the front...can anyone lead me in the right direction to solve this....Is this a rebound problem? | ||
| Xbcrazy |
Two quick things to check: 1. Tire pressure. The Diablo and Diablo Corsa are more performance oriented that the stock Dunlop 207 or 208's. Therefore they are more sensitive to pressure. I believe recommended cold temp for the Diablo is 34 psi front and 33 psi rear. The Diablo Corsa is 32 psi front and 31 psi rear. They both will feel awkward until full temp is reached. You can cheat a little and boost the pressure 2 psi for a better cold feel, but you will sacrifice traction as the tire will not be able to heat fully. 2. When putting the forks back in the triple trees it is very easy to have one positioned slightly higher or lower than the other. It doesn't take much to make the bars start to gyrate at higher speeds. Loosen the bolts on the upper and lower triples and let the forks resettle against the c-ring in the upper triple. Then retorque. That should eliminate the potential for any unevenness. Pete | ||
| Ducxl |
When putting the forks back in the triple trees it is very easy to have one positioned slightly higher or lower than the other. But wouldn't that cause the forks to bind? GMD Computrack advised me that the axle dictates this and,the forks "May" seem a little uneven up top.Even the service manual states where the trees get torqued "After" cinching the axle. | ||
| Xbcrazy |
You'd be surprised how many times the triple trees are torqued before the wheel and axle are reinstalled. Not everyone follows the service manual's instructions word for word. I bet if you ask around on this board how many people have found "better" or "faster" ways to perform tasks described in the manual, you'd find that many have. Case in point, there was a thread a few days ago asking how to replace front brake pads. The manual says to separate the line from the caliper, remove caliper, replace pads, reinstall caliper, replace line...bleed brake system. Would you ever introduce air into the brake system then bleed it out to change pads if there was another way? In this case, not seating the forks properly is an easy mistake to make and also difficult to detect because the problematic wobble won't show until higher speeds are reached. Fortunately it is easily fixed. | ||
| Humboldtblast |
yep , should of mentioned my tire pressure was 34 in front and 36 in rear...checked the front preload and it was about a half a turn off on the right side.. will try it now... | ||
| Sloppy |
Are you experiencing this on highway rain grooves? | ||
| Humboldtblast |
nope just at 90+, its starting to weird me out...dont like it at all | ||
| Humboldtblast |
ok tried it got a little better but seemed not as easy to turn...the wobble didnt come on until 110...any more suggestions? | ||
| Brineusaf |
tires balanced correctly? | ||
| Glitch |
How worn were the old tires? What brand were the old tires? If say, you went from the stock Dunlops to Diablos, you may/should adjust the suspension. They both have different profiles. If the old set were pretty worn, and square, going to a new set of tires will change the way the bike feels pretty dramatically, and may not be anything wrong at all. | ||
| Tx05xb12s |
According to Diablo USA website, they recommend 32 psi minimum for a 120/70 (42 max), and 36 psi for a 180/55 (42 max). I've been running them at 36/38 per the owners manual instructions for the old D208's, but am going to try 32/36 cold pressure and see what they do. I've also had a little problem with my fork settings, but due to a different problem. I installed the LSL steering dampener on a Scg model and was forced to slip the fork tubes down in the tripple trees to accommodate a dampener/fender clearance problem I was having. Anyway, I loosened the tripple trees with axle torqued up in place to hopefully keep them even. I also used my dial calipers to measure exactly .500 gap between the retainer rings and the bottom of the top tripple tree on each side so I would know they were exactly even. The suspension performs great and this solved my clearance problem, but occasionally on long rides when coasting up to a street light I'll sit up, let go of the handlebars, and stretch a moment or two before resuming the riding position with hands on the bars. When I do this, the bike lists to the left a few degrees in order to maintain balance and trajectory. I'm thinking this is because the right tube needs to be slightly higher, say .485 to get back to full upright balance point. What do you guys think? This also may have something to do with why I have a slightly wider chicken strip on the right side of my tires. All I know is this was not an issue with my bike until I started jacking around with the fork tubes. The bike has never been wrecked, so there shouldn't be anything bent anywhere. This the only thing that has changed. I apologize if this is jacking the thread. Seemed related to the issue. No offense intended. | ||
| Tx05xb12s |
Cheyne: In response to the head shake you're experiencing. As far as suspension settings go, how do you have them set? Did you use the static method, or go with factory recommendations in the owners manual, and then deviate from there, such as increase rear preload and reduce front preload in an effort to make the turn-in more responsive? Try lowering the rear preload a notch and increasing the preload a line. Perhaps this is just a rake/trail issue (i.e.: got it set up too aggressively). | ||
| Tx05xb12s |
I think I know why my bike is listing to the left a little when I coast with hands off the handlebars. Just went out to the garage and re-measured the distance between the bottom of the top triple trees and the retainer rings, and the tubes evidently slipped when I was tightening the triple trees back up. Either that, or the trees won't hold the fork tubes exactly in place down to the thousandth of an inch unless they're butted up against the retainer rings. I had the bolts pretty darn tight, but there's about .150 difference between the two now. That's probably enough to make it list a few degrees, so I'll have to do it again. | ||
| Humboldtblast |
Yep the old ones were DONE, these are brand new ( well now with 400 miles)... the tires are balanced...hmmm ok here are my settings, started with the aggressive setting for weight 165-180 then moved from there...front preload=5.5 comp=1.5 rebound=1.5 Rear Preload=4 comp=1.25 rebound=1.25 weight of rider=168-172(depends on the beer) ill try turing my rear preload to 3 and see what happens...oh by the way...spec ops pipe is on ...omg...wow... | ||
| Humboldtblast |
cmon now...feed me info | ||
| M1combat |
What's the ride height set to at the front? As I recall mine weren't sunk to the c-clips from the factory. They still aren't... If you lowered the front at all, then installed new tires that are also known to be a taller tire (more rounded profile) they'll add a few mm to the rear ride height... this will certainly change the handling of the bike. Dropping the rear preload may indeed help. If it did though... I'd put it back where it was and then raise the front a bit. I wouldn't raise it with preload though... I'd lower the forks through the tripples a little. All of that was just what I would do if it were my bike and I knew exactly what the current setup was. |
