| Author | Message | ||
     Hellonwheels |
OK SO i did it I changed the pads and after braking only one bolt I managed to do it pretty easy. But I got no brakes now. I Squeeze the lever and its soft and there is not grab so I keep pumping it and then stop and open the bleeder then close it and pump away, repeat several times and still nothing? it sounds like when Im reopening the breather that it sucks air abck in so im gonna wait and see if someone else can offer some help Thanks Dustin | ||
| Spiderman |
well first off. You need to be squeezing the lever when you open the bleeder. SO Pump a few times to get a small amount of preassure. squeeze the lever then open the bleeder. repeat till firm. | ||
| Spiderman |
Oh yeah close the bleeder before releasing the lever  | ||
| Justin_case |
Or you can use "Speed Bleeders" one-man bleeder valves. They have a built-in check valve. Just loosen 1 turn and pump away 'til the air is gone. Get 'em at most auto parts stores. Get the correct thread. | ||
| Tq_freak |
or you can just take the filler cap off, crack the bleeder grab a  and let gravity work for you. | ||
| Ducxl |
"Mity-Vac" BABY! The ONLY easy method of bleeding brakes.They sell the cheapy plastic one for $30. Or you can buy the metal one for $75. | ||
| Terribletim |
Go with Justin's advice. It is just a small rubber hose that goes over the bleeder, you put the other end in a bottle of fluid, pump away till it stops spittin' bubbles out the end of the tube. It can't suck in air, 'cause it's under water so to speak. If you have a hose the right size, you can just use that. Get a clear one and you can watch! It will be mesmerizing!  | ||
| Norrie |
Did you just change the pads? If so why are you needing to bleed the brakes? Norrie. | ||
| Etennuly |
They didn't mention "Pump" the brake lever slowly and go the full stroke in and back, then hold the pressure while you open the bleeder, after it squirts out air and fluid, close the bleeder, then pump it up again. With the air you sucked in there it could take 6-8 times. When there is just fluid coming out, no air bubbles, when you open the bleeder you are done. Make sure you keep filling the master cylinder with fresh fluid, if it runs low it will suck air and you'll be starting over. Next time you change pads just slowly pump the lever several times to push the new pads out to the rotor. You don't need to bleed them unless there is some other problem.  | ||
| Hellonwheels |
Well thanks guys I will get s speed bleeder, I changed the pads but I think the reason I am having this problem was I had to crack the line to move it out the way so I could get to the top bolt (that had to much lock tight and stripped the head !!!) then its gonna take a week to get this part!!! IS it ok to ride with 3 of the 4 caliper bolts in? Well 4/5 the silver one is a different color> Buell couldnt tell me if it was ok or not?! | ||
| Nutsnbolt |
Dude... 3 of the 4 Caliper bolts? Okay... Number one... We need to go over a few things so next time you change your pads, you're not coming even close to this issue. 1. Take out bottom bolt. Loosen Top one. (There's only 2 you need to worry about.) The ones attatching it to the bike. Then you can swing the caliper forward. 1.5 Buy the allen socket. Don't use the L shaped allen wrenches anymore. Sears has a set of like 6 or 7 for 29 bucks. Best buy, ever. While you're on it, get the torx set also. But if you have to use the L shaped. Put the long end in the bolt and take a deep well socket and an extension and make that your breaker bar to loosen the top bolt. 2. Take out right pad. Then take out left pad. Compress pistions, (use something flat.. I've used my allen wrench a few times. Whatever works,) then install left pad, then right pad. 3. Put bottom bolt in hand tight, tighten top bolt to torque, then tighten bottom bolt to torque. DONE. 4/5 bolts that you're talking about... That's not needed. Infact, that's severe. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Another good trick to get the last tiny bit of air out of the system (after bleeding manually as well as humanly possible): squeeze the brake lever and secure it by wrapping it with a bungee cord or something similar. Leave it that way overnight, with the bars situated such that the master cylinder is as high as possible. The steady pressure compresses any remaining air bubbles (air compresses; brake fluid doesn't), making them tiny, and allowing them to slowly rise from the caliper, up the hose, and into the master cylinder reservoir. | ||
| Phatkidwit1eye |
This is one of the best ways to bleed your brakes. I could never get my rear firm enough with the "pump pump squeeze" technique. Until something easier and better comes along, this is the way I will always bleed my brakes. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/174272.html?1139415194 | ||
| Vaneo1 |
what is all this bleeding talk about? Everytime I change my pads I dont belled anything unless I smack my knucles against the ground because a wrench slips. If your replacing the pads then whats the point in bleeding the system. Mine works...So I "AINT" gonna fix it. | ||
| Altima02 |
^ He took off the brake line. Air got in. | ||
| Jlnance |
Dustin - The service manual is the best $50 you'll ever spend. |
