| Author | Message | ||
     Nutsnbolt |
Okay. I need this to be the "go to" as far as the tranny goes. Here's what I got... I changed the tranny fluid 4 days ago (semi Synthetic) also, Changed the oil. (20-50) NOW... Since changing the oil and tranny fluid, the shifting is weird. At times it's hard to shift into 1st from neutral, and at times it's difficult to shift from 2nd to 3rd. On top of that... it also seems so easy to slip into gear on the other gears. I mean, I could probably shift without the clutch. Now, I've read some threads here and there about fluid levels and all that. Here's what I want to know. What is the level it needs to be at? (Tranny) I have a service manual (the picture on that sucks) and I saw a thread where Blake said "just touching the teeth" and I've see other threads about different fluid levels. What is the fluid level supposed to be. What's it supposed to touch? Pictures would be great. I mean, I put in the one quart and my concern is was there some residual already left in there, and that made it too much? Plus, visually seeing the fluid level... Is that while you have it on a rear stand? Or is that with both tires on the ground, straight up or on front and rear stand? I mean, there's so much room for error. What's a good detailed way to get this right? I know that my bike doesn't feel right. I just need a good go to as far as how to do this correctly. Thanks Mark | ||
| Spatten1 |
One quart should be good if you drained it well. Fluid just touch the bottom of the clutch spring, with the bike upright. Oil to use has been argued many times. I don't believe in heavy gear oil, I use engine oil. Many opinions on the subject. | ||
| M1combat |
I use engine oil as well but only because the gear oild has charged particles that seem to attack the stator. The level... I put it just into the teeth (maybe an 1/8" or so) with the bike level. I also tend to level the bike while draining and this tends to result in one fully used quart when I fill it back up. Not on a rear stand. On the kickstand until most is drained, then I stand it up by hand until it stops draining. | ||
| Tx05xb12s |
Same here. I stopped spending $7.99 a quart for SportTrans Fluid a long time ago. Now I just put the same oil I run in the engine into the primary chamber. Exactly one quart makes my bike shift like butter as long as I have the clutch dialed in just right. Also, because the clutch cable adjuster located in front of the engine allows moisture into the primary, I change the fluid every 1000 miles. Haven't had a single problem since I started doing this. Back when I used SportTrans Fluid, it shifted like a tractor and was hard to get into neutral. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
One quart is too much. 28 OZ works well for me. That's 4 OZ less, but makes the biggest difference. But to be sure do what Blake said. With the bike upright, shine a flash light and see if the fluid just touches the teeth. In your case, it's most likely that substantial portion of the teeth would be submerged in the fluid. | ||
| Spatten1 |
My service manual specifies the bottom of the clutch spring, not the teeth. Has been one quart every time so far for me. Do the newer service manuals specify the Teeth? Mine is for 2003 models. | ||
| Skully |
Have you adjusted the clutch free play at both locations? | ||
| Xb9 |
"One quart is too much. 28 OZ works well for me. That's 4 OZ less, but makes the biggest difference." Ditto. If everything is adjusted right and it still shifts weird like that, pull the primary cover & clutch and check the countershaft retaining screw. The screw can start to back out which causes misalignment of the transmission gears. Initial symptoms are kinda what you describe. If allowed to back all the way out it can get very ugly. | ||
| Nutsnbolt |
Okay, I just picked myself up off of the floor. I think I'm okay. Are you saying that there could be something actually wrong with my transmission/clutch area? If that is the case, you said "countershaft retaining screw" and pull the primary cover and clutch. Okay. looks like I'm gonna need a little clarification on this. Here's what I can do. I can pull the inspection cover and that's about it. I suppose if I run down to Sears and get a torque wrench, I could get on the primary cover (for retightening) Now, on to the clutch. I have a service manual, but what the hell am I looking for? I just went through the manual and I can't really see what it is that you're talking about. I guess I'm gonna have to open up the parts manual. With my rear stand on the bike and the triple tree stand on (kinda makes the front higher than the rear as a result) my fluid level is covering most of the teeth. SO, I suppose that I might have too much fluid in there. This brings up another thought. My manual says clutch spring. Then on the very next page, the clutch spring is described as the spring that puts tension on the primary inspection plate. Obviously, that's not the level I need. This is why I'm confused. But when you say just barely touching the teeth, I'm good to go with that scenario. Look, this is GREAT info so far. I appreciate it. You guys are the best. Mark | ||
| Spatten1 |
Two different springs. The one on the inspection/adjustment plate is just for the linkage. It is a small coil spring. The one on the clutch is a big conical spring, like on cars. like a flat metal plate that is bent slghtly into a cone shape. That is the one the manual refers to about oil level. | ||
| Nutsnbolt |
Ah-ha. I think I know. Okay, Thank you. Mark | ||
| Spatten1 |
"At times it's hard to shift into 1st from neutral, and at times it's difficult to shift from 2nd to 3rd" Don't freak out yet, just try a different oil first. This is not a japanese bike, it does take effort and CRUNCH to shift, and nuetral is not always a breeze to find. Mine sounds like it will never shift again every time I go from first to second. As said above, make sure you have freeplay at the clutch lever and adjust if not. I believe your model is before the major tranny changes that are supposed to have really smoothed things out. |
