Author |
Message |
Swordsman
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 09:39 am: |
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Man, did I have a fit Saturday afternoon! I decided that I didn't want my hand guards installed on my Ss anymore, so I began the simple task of taking them off. Before I go any farther, let me mention that not too long ago (October) I installed these, and then was rear ended the next day. Stone Mountain took my bike in and did all the necessary replacements, one of which was the hand guards. I'm assuming they replaced both guards and not just the one that was damaged (right side), because I know I didn't use any Loctite in the initial installation. Anyway, so I'm taking off the hand guards. The right side, the one that was damaged, came off without a hitch. I notice there is some white thread locker used on the small screws that cap both top and bottom of the plastic shell, which is really pointless, since both the hand guards and the screws are so lightweight and really don't support anything. I get the original hardware reinstalled no problem, and move on the the left hand guard. HOLY... CRAP. Someone must have used half a tube of thread locker on both the top and bottom screws. I'm being as gentle as possible, but the philips head is slowly rounding out on the top one, and I'm using the perfect sized driver. So I try the bottom one. It rounds out completely. Well shiznit. Now what do I do? Out comes the hack saw. I figure if I can just get the bottom one loose, I can get the whole assembly off and not worry about the top screw. So I laid the saw across the bottom one and after 20 minutes or so, I've made one helluva flat head made for my ornery screw (and didn't scratch the plastic!). There's no way the Loctite can withstand my Big Ass Flat Head Driver. So I start to turn... and the screw head begins to rip loose. W.... T... F !?!?!? Just how much locker DID they use??? It's obviously much stronger than the entire bolt. There's absolutely no way I can get it out of there. Luckily (I guess), my bike is due for it's 5000 mile service, so I've got to haul it back to Stone Mountain anyway. When I do, I'm going to request that they undo their "handiwork", and I don't expect to pay for it. It's ridiculous to glue those pieces in the first place. Too much of this bike is glued together anyway. ~SM |
Davy_boy
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 09:48 am: |
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I've stopped using locktite all together. I just check things out every now and then to make sure nothing is loose . } |
Liquorbox
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 10:07 am: |
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There are two types of Loctite, red, and blue. The blue is & should be used on almost all fasteners, the red should only be used where directed, as you need to torch the threads to break the Locktite grip of the red. Tip: Elmer’s carpenters glue works every bit as well as Blue Locktite and costs about one twentieth the price! |
Spike
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 10:15 am: |
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Just a guess, but any chance it's oxidation and not thread locker? I'd expect a dealer to use red or blue loc-tite, so white makes me think the bolt may have just seized into the threads. |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 10:18 am: |
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Elmers, eh? I have little blue spots in my garage where I stepped on tubes of Loctite and they burst open. With a $5 bottle of Elmers, I bet I could make a real mess in there. |
Swordsman
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 10:30 am: |
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I don't think it's any kind of oxidation. It doesn't really look like that, and these are the the black coated bits. I've seen this same stuff used on some of the other bolts I've removed on the bike, like the ones that hold the Lightning headlight assembly, and the ones for the side scoop... in larger chunks, it crumbles off with your fingernail. Looks kinda' like Parmesan cheese. That's what was on the right side guard screws, so I'm assuming that's what's holding the left ones in. ~SM |
Firebolteric_ma
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 10:34 am: |
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Try explaining that one to the wife, I can see her asking now, "Honey what is with all the white goey spots on the floor?" Ummm..Errr..Good question dear.... |
Jaimec
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 10:50 am: |
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I'm not familiar with a white thread locking agent other than corrosion... |
Lost_in_ohio
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 10:57 am: |
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Could the white be never seize??????? |
Justin_case
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 11:31 am: |
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Blue loctite will leave white residue in the threads. |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 11:58 am: |
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There's actually many more types than red and blue, but they are the most common. I too am not a fan, but I'll use it if the manual calls out for it. |
Spatten1
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 12:22 pm: |
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Tons of white thread locker when I dissasembled my bike. Probably took twice as long because so many fasteners were glued in place. I too thought it migh be corrosion, but it was in just too many differnt places. |
Firebolteric_ma
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 12:22 pm: |
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I only use Blue on the stuff I DON'T want to fall off. I also only use Red on stuff I WANT to NEVER come off again. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 12:32 pm: |
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I had one of those screws fall out on my 9sx. |
984gasm
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 12:56 pm: |
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how do you clean loctite off screws/bolts again? I remember someone telling me, just don't remember |
Spatten1
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 01:08 pm: |
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Use a tap or die. |
Firebolteric_ma
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 01:35 pm: |
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Wire brush or wheel works very well on bolts |
45_degrees
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 02:01 pm: |
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I hate the zealous use of loc-tite myself. I had to hacksaw and drill a bolt on my first Buell too. The company I work for (I am a technician for the the medical/scientific devices they make) uses a crap load of it. Since it's a small company it can be traced to one certain production worker. He uses it like icing on a cake. No matter how many complaints are made about it, he still insists on using it... truth be told he is a farmer... super tight is is not tight enough and if a little loc-tite is good and lot is even better. I just make it a habit to check bolts and stuff and not use the stuff. |
Cmm213
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 02:09 pm: |
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There is also a green but one should stay clear of that stuff. It usually ends up stuck forever or getting drilled out. I dont like locktite either, but I use on certain parts as our bikes like to drop parts and fasteners going down the road - Like kick stands , shifter linkage and chin spoiler bolts! |
Bombero
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 02:16 pm: |
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I just replaced some parts that I wrecked in a crash, and I used all factory fasteners - the majority of them had what appeared to be a drop of white "Loc-Tite" already on the threads. I'm not a big fan of it either, but I end up finding myself using it - probably out of the sheer paranoia that I don't want the bike to rattle apart at speed.... |
Firebolteric_ma
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 02:38 pm: |
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but I end up finding myself using it - probably out of the sheer paranoia that I don't want the bike to rattle apart at speed.... THAT IS A SMART MOVE |
Firebolteric_ma
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 02:39 pm: |
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The purple is not as potent and works very well |
Vonsliek
| Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2007 - 02:01 am: |
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i love loc-tite & use blue & red & as directed .. 242 272 .. whatever is available & close .. always judiciously & use grade 8 where i can when replacing .. never less than grade 5 .. those chrome domed allen bolts are *mickey mouse* anyway .. better to use stainless capped grade 8 allens or torx .. or .. any ideas?! ;P i agree .. blue turns white in threads - or so it wld appear when removing them & it doesn't require aging or moisture in air .. goes in wet & blue .. comes out like dried poop .. paul. |
Metalstorm
| Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2007 - 02:04 am: |
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I second the purple (low strengh) locktite. Not as strong as the blue but just strong enough to do its job. I've been using it for a year or two now on the small stuff like fender & chin fairing fasteners without incident. Edit:Just to note, my chin fairing comes off every oil change & fender comes off every new front tire change. It's a cg so the fender has to come off for the front stand to fit. No stuck or missing screws yet (Message edited by Metalstorm on January 09, 2007) |
Xbswede
| Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2007 - 09:24 am: |
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Hi-temp permatex thread sealer is White. |
Blazinc5
| Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2007 - 08:54 pm: |
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I'll stick by my locktite. The most important thing is to use it sparingly. little bit = long ways. I mean I used to deal with the stuff quite often at work. And when there has been a mistake and we need to take the damn thingy apart. we look first to who assembled it... Most new people in that dept.,, may as well just throw away the parts and start over... I think it works like it should, but its bad rep. is from miss-users. |
Xb9ser
| Posted on Wednesday, January 10, 2007 - 09:05 pm: |
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I dont use it on my chin fairing or front fender. No problems but I do check the screws every once in a while. first time I removed my front fender the screw head stripped out on one and i had to drill out head then used vice grips. I havent lost one yet. |
Kowpow225
| Posted on Wednesday, January 10, 2007 - 09:41 pm: |
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I've used an impact screwdriver to reverse a stuck bolt/screw several times now. Rear heel guard screws are nasty little boogers.
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Tx05xb12s
| Posted on Thursday, January 11, 2007 - 12:03 am: |
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Here's a site that'll shed some light on the subject. http://www.neverseezproducts.com/threadlock.htm?OV RAW=threadlocker&OVKEY=threadlocker&OVMTC=standard |
Swordsman
| Posted on Thursday, January 11, 2007 - 08:39 am: |
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Oh, yeah, don't get me wrong, thread locker certainly has it's place on the Buells. I just don't think the tiny little screws in the plastic hand guards should be one of them. I've removed it as best I can from the other body panels as well. Lightweight plastics just don't seem to need all that, especially the ones that get taken off every so often. I haven't seen any evidence of them loosening. ~SM |
Ronlv
| Posted on Thursday, January 11, 2007 - 11:24 am: |
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I only use Blue on the stuff I DON'T want to fall off. I also only use Red on stuff I WANT to NEVER come off again me to, i have had to many striped bolts because of red |
Scooter808484
| Posted on Thursday, January 11, 2007 - 11:40 am: |
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The Buell service manual specifies red all over the place. Red Loctite on chin fairing bolts,????? I guess because it might be heat resistant, but I'd never use red on that thing. My personal Loctite rules: 1. If I'll die if it falls off, then use blue loctite. 2. If it will get sucked into the engine if it falls off, use blue loctite. 3. Follow Service manual instructions if inside the engine. Other wise, torque to spec, and use a little antisieze compund. |
Blake
| Posted on Thursday, January 11, 2007 - 06:45 pm: |
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Use what the manual advises. Red is not to be used on small fasteners. Only a very few places it is specified to my knowledge on the Buell and in all cases on large fasteners only, like the big drive sprocket nuts and such. |
Sleez
| Posted on Thursday, January 11, 2007 - 06:50 pm: |
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never use loctite on plastic threads! very bad! |
Tx05xb12s
| Posted on Thursday, January 11, 2007 - 08:42 pm: |
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I've lost two fasteners thus far. One out of the airbox cover, and another out of the lower fairing. I now use blue religiously on these and have no trouble getting them out again. They're freakin' expensive! Did you guys know that the little clear washers cost $.30 ea?! The fasteners are a couple of bucks! So far the only place I've used the red is my primary compensator nut. Hope I never need to get it off because I fairly painted the damn thing with it the 2nd time it backed off the shaft. |