| Author | Message | ||
     Spork |
I've been contemplating a small 20 shot or so for a while and was wondering if any set ups have proven themselves reliable. I looked in the knowledge vault and the closest I could come was a year-old post from Norrisperformance. Even with the small shot I would like to use a wet system. NOS has a kit for harleys that uses an inline fuel pump that looks like it could be rigged with a fitting off of the fuel tank drain plug, with the nozzles tapped into the lower manifold. 'Course that's $$$ too, so I was just wondering if anyones come up with a simpler solution. I'd like to use dual 10 oz bottles with mounts fabricated into the passenger peg brackets. Also, I couldn't find any specific statutes banning nitrous on street vehicles, but I'm not 100% convinced it wouldn't be impoundment fodder. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated! | ||
| Jaimec |
With the Buell's short wheelbase, wouldn't there be a real danger of flipping the bike over backwards?? | ||
| No_rice |
"With the Buell's short wheelbase, wouldn't there be a real danger of flipping the bike over backwards??" YEP!!!! or strip some teeth off of your belt and flip you over backwards at speed when it catches again! it is fun though! http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/168313.html?1137459560 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/180461.html?1142022490 there are some more somewhere if you search around (Message edited by no_rice on December 26, 2006) | ||
| Diablobrian |
I've had good luck with NX branded systems in the past. I liked the customer service better than what I received from Holley/NOS. If you are serious about it there are a few of us on BadWeB that have experience with nitrous systems. Firemanjim has been using it on the salt for a good while with some record breaking results, I've played with it myself on various projects over the years, and No_Rice has a wet system on his bike. Any of the 3 of us would be happy to answer questions you might have. Nitrous is not something you play with lightly. There are serious risks involved even at moderate levels. I'm glad to see you looking at a wet system. Dry systems are where the most danger of engine damage is found. You will need to invest in good high pressure hoses, solenoids, nozzles, and bottles for the gas side. the fuel side has it's obvious hazards, and you will need to be at least reasonably proficient with 12vdc wiring. It is usually cheaper to assemble you own system from components than it is to buy a kit from any of the manufacturer. Beware the "easilly upgraded" solenoid plans you'll see on the net. (Where you modify a low pressure solenoid according to someone else's plans to "convert it" to high pressure use) These are a very bad idea. You cannot cut corners on a nos system. Also, to properly tune a nos system plan on at least one trip to a dyno with air fuel read-outs to verify the calibration of the system. The factory reps will give you jet sizes, but these are much like the factory suspension settings for your bike, they are ballpark figures and are to be considered starting points, they are not set in stone. Sorry to have gone on so long... | ||
| Spork |
Thanks for the replies. This'll be for top gear fun only of course, and for the 'wow' factor at bike night. Basically I'll have to science out and build my own system is what I'm hearing? I'd also like to know how you get the fuel side of your systems since going w/ an external auxiliary pump seems $$$ and alittle extreme for such a small dose, but theres also the worry that the stock pump won't have acceptable output, not to mention the special high pressure solenoid needed. No_Rice, did you put the V-rod pump in tandem with the stock one? Should I consider using a progressive controller to soften the impact to the belt? Again, seems kinda extreme for the 20 shot I'm looking for but I'd rather do it right first than suffer later. BTW, awesome idea of mounting the bottle in the frame intake hole. I've got a cherry bomb cover and open airbox that would make it a neat way to hide it in plain sight... | ||
| Diablobrian |
Last I knew Tim (No_Rice) was running an NX pump we installed just before homecoming this year. It was one I had on my shelf from an old gsxr project. You may be able to tap off of the stock fuel line, but if you decide to upgrade later there just won't be enough fuel. A progressive should not be needed, but a chain is a very good idea when you consider the shock load on the belt when you hit the juice. If the belt is in any way compromised then you have a major problem. Tim has been through at least 5 belts this year. If you run a belt, that's the price of playing. | ||
| No_rice |
there is alot of trial and error involved. problem with that is that the wrong error can easily cost you a motor or more... i am still messing with mine, and getting ready to tear it apart again soon hopefully to revise it a little and see what i can come up with to make it function like i want. i did have the vrod pump hooked up in line as just a booster, but that was a short lived idea. right now i am currently running brians fuel pump in a whole seperate system by itself. all it's own plumbing tight off of the tank. i might move my nozzle placement also, but then i will have to get new lines and such. ugh. its a never ending process. you also better be very confident with your ability to operate everything correctly if you are going to have no saftey systems hooked up. hit the button to soon... BOOM. hold the button to long and tag the rev limiter... BOOM. let up on the throttle before the N2O... BOOM. you get the idea. | ||
| Spork |
Are the safety systems all hooked up using a smart switch to the TPS and tach signals? And when you say right off the tank, do you mean by a fitting off the drain plug? Seems that would be the easiest route. I'm also pre-emptively planning to to tap the nozzles into the lower intake, one per side for better distribution. Is there a reason you didn't do it that way as far as space limitations or whatever? Your advice is much appreciated since it's apparent you're already down this road. Killer bike too, love the olive drab. | ||
| Diablobrian |
Normally you wire in a master arming switch to power everything up, A switch on the throttle to prevent the system from firing unless you are at full throttle, You also need a redline cut-off to prevent over-revving the motor and grenading it, In some cases a lockout in all but the top 2 gears (this kind of switch can get expensive), A fuel pressure safety will help to save motors by preventing the system from firing without there being fuel to the fogger(s), And of course the trigger switch. The horn button can be made to work quite well for this, and it is nice and subtle in appearance. (Message edited by diablobrian on December 27, 2006) (Message edited by diablobrian on December 27, 2006) | ||
| Diablobrian |
Minimally you can run just the arming switch and the trigger, however that can get very expensive very very quickly. I personally would not try to save a couple bucks in switches just to have it cost me a motor the first time I try it, and then again and again later if I make a mistake and push the button by accident a little too early or a little too long |
