| Author | Message | ||
     Aatch |
i'm getting very close to removing my stock muffler and "exchanging" it for a new drummer, and my questions is how difficult and/or easy is this to do by yourself? i've read the instructions on the kdfab webpage, and am a little confused as to why you even need to remove the belt tensioner? seems like you could get access to the muffler attachments without doing so...hmmm. anyway, who here has done this, and any words of advice or special tools i will need to do this? please help. | ||
| Khollister |
You don't have to remove the tensioner - if you have some extensions and flex sockets, you can sneak in there and loosen the rear clamps. | ||
| Bdabuell |
what khollister said...it's easy. and when you put them back on swap/reverse them so you can get to them from the other side next time if need be | ||
| Aatch |
thanks - seems to make sense. what size sockets to i need for this? (metric or standard?) and should i invest in a decent torque wrench to achieve the "44 foot lb" of torque? i should say that i'm a total novice at wrenching on my bike, but the process seems simple enough. | ||
| Typeone |
manual says the straps should be replaced if taken off... i swapped pipes a few times ignoring this until one morning i went to go meet up with some buds for a ride only to find the front strap busted  ... soon after, my torca clamp busted. doh! FYI . YMMV but +1 for the reversing of the rear straps for easy access | ||
| Sslowmo |
wow, i got my drummer delivered yesterday. i bought a stock muffler off ebay and shipped that to kevin. so i had to take off and put on and maybe 3 1/2 hours for the whole job. saved $95hr. i really like the drummer. awesome sound, power is too. i'm very novice at working on bikes or cars. simple went by the book, except the strap (front and rear)torqe;just until tight says kevin. | ||
| Thespive |
The tensioner is simple to remove, two bolts, and it saves a lot of time. --Sean | ||
| Pokinatcha |
I left my tensioner on and was super simple install of drummer | ||
| Kds1 |
I realize alot of you guys know whats behind the tensioner and working on the bike is easy, but for some that have no clue whats behind the tensioner and there are some that will need to see that theres nothing there, it will be more educational for them to realize the next time that the tensioner can be left in place, and some peoples tool box might not have the necessary tools to remove it with the tensioner in place.....the main thing is when removing/replacing the muffler if you need to see behind the tensioner or not, well you make call that suits your needs for doing the job yourself....if anybody needs my help call me...828-381-7546 Kevin www.kdfab.com | ||
| Rasmonis |
Aatch, I did it according to the manual and it was a piece of cake. I too am a novice, and by following the instructions on the manual, I've been able to: install a race kit replace front pads (super easy) perform 5K service change tires (with the help of a good friend) replaced the rear subframe/tail piece on an XBS. These bikes are great to work on. Invest on the torque wrench(es) and Torx sockets, the amount of time you save (not to mention proper adjustments to spec) with these tools is well worth it. Stands are also good to have. | ||
| Acejay |
i did it without even a flex wrench, which i didn't have. just took off the brake pedal so a could get get a straight socket in there, and put the clamps back on the left side. the only thing you need are deep sockets to get over the long bolts on the clamps, dont bother with a torque wrench - tight is good enough. its a piece of piss really, once you start taking things off it will all make sense. | ||
| Fravel |
I installed the Drummer SS on my bike. I have found that if you remove the front pulley cover, you will have easy access to the muffler straps. The pulley cover is a piece of cake to remove, takes about 2 minutes to take it off and put it back on. I think it's held in place by 3 torx screws. Remove it and wallah... | ||
| Treadmarks |
While all the brackets and exhaust clamps are slightly loose, use a piece of wood (2x4 worked for me) between the back of the front tire and the front of the muffler to apply a little pressure while you tighten everything up. This will prevent the skid marks on the front of the muffler or faring, from the front tire.  | ||
| Aatch |
thanks for the tips and info everybody - hopefully this weekend i'll have time to pull my old muffler off and send it off to kdfab! this forum rocks! |
