Author |
Message |
Smoothrod
| Posted on Thursday, November 16, 2006 - 07:51 pm: |
|
Guys I was hoping to get some feedback from some of you who are using this tuner. I know its been out for awhile, but rarely hear anybody talk about it. Thanks |
Typeone
| Posted on Thursday, November 16, 2006 - 09:34 pm: |
|
the search function is your friend.. . many, MANY conversations about that device. you'll find enough info to keep you occupied for oh, a year or so. (btw, i'm not being a wise ass, i've spent a year reading) |
M1combat
| Posted on Thursday, November 16, 2006 - 09:34 pm: |
|
It's pretty difficult to tune well. |
Smoothrod
| Posted on Thursday, November 16, 2006 - 10:30 pm: |
|
Yea I did the search thing first, but most of the conversation is a year or so old. I was hoping to get a new perspective, but I guess much hasn't changed. |
Typeone
| Posted on Thursday, November 16, 2006 - 11:50 pm: |
|
nope. just as potentially painful |
Diablobrian
| Posted on Friday, November 17, 2006 - 01:55 am: |
|
Direct Link effectively rendered the TFI and Power Commander obsolete as tuning tools. |
Black9
| Posted on Friday, November 17, 2006 - 09:01 am: |
|
I have an 04 12 with a Drummer loud ,TFI and race ECM, and can say that a TFI IS alittle finicky to tune, but once you find the "sweet spot it works good. I will say that if you were to do a simple pipe/ air filter mod that using one with a stock ECM is the way I would go as my experience with using Buell's race ECM on 2 of the 12's I've owned is that is can cause poor cold starts. DL is probably the best way to tune but, and this is a big BUT...you either need to know someone that can supply you with a good map for your setup or, know somebody that knows how to tune it on a dyno....way more $$$ than a TFI, for minimal gain on a simple pipe swap. ($$ per/hp) HP ) |
Teeps
| Posted on Friday, November 17, 2006 - 09:03 am: |
|
Smoothrod Posted on Thursday, November 16, 2006 Guys I was hoping to get some feedback from some of you who are using this tuner. I put one on my Ulysses in July and have been dicking around with it ever since. While it appears to do no harm; my "butt dyno" can't say it does any good, either. From what I have learned so far, the race ECM is going to be the best bang for your buck if you can get one. After that plan on spending $$$$$! (+500?) to get TFI or Direct Link properly tuned. Dobeck will lead you to believe that with TFI a dyno is not needed, but I disagree. |
Trojan
| Posted on Friday, November 17, 2006 - 09:37 am: |
|
Anything that alters the fuelling and/or ignition on your injected motorcycle should be set up using a dyno to get the best from it. The TFi is slightly less crucial, as it is impossible tomake the bike run weaker with these units, but even then it needs careful setting up. Something like Direct Link, Rapidbike or PCIII definitely needs dyno time to get right. The more adjustability you have, the more time it takes |
Al_lighton
| Posted on Friday, November 17, 2006 - 10:32 pm: |
|
What Matt said, with clarification. Read his first sentence over and over. Change the words "dyno" to "Brake equipped dyno with a wideband O2 sensor", as any old dynojet 100 with no brake is good for looking at WOT response but about useless for true mapping work. There ARE ways to tune on the street with bunged headers, wideband O2 data acquisition systems, laptop, etc. But it's very time consuming compared to tuning on a dyno. Tuning an FI equipped bike with a just a "butt dyno" is just folly. While the TFI is not capable of subtracting fuel directly at any given operational point, I'm pretty sure it is capable of causing a bike to run both weaker (i.e., too rich, for instance) AND/OR leaner. Due to influence on the AFV setting algorithms, I think the device can cause the overall fueling to be scaled downwards (leaner) as it drives the AFV lower if it isn't set right. IMHO, Directlink is a more sano way of altering fueling, because it doesn't add any more HW to the bike and it operates inside the ECM control loops. But set wrong, it too can make a bike plenty lean due to AFV skew, even if the open loop mapping is spot on. But either must be adjusted on a dyno or you're wasting your time. |
M1combat
| Posted on Friday, November 17, 2006 - 11:27 pm: |
|
You can force the AFV down with a TFI for pipes that don't flow well in the lower RPM range (Force). Then you can turn up the other pots to get a HALF decent tune. It's time consuming though and they seem to do reasonably funky things with elevation changes (when your AFV get too far from where you did your tuning at). It's not that it's a useless device or anything, it's just not the best tool. It's a crescent wrench . I had good luck with the PCIII but it seemed to need the throttle zero setting adjusted with temperature... That "may" have been due to the type of connector I used to tap into the TPS though. That was really the only finnicky thing I found about it, and everyone and their brother knows how to tune them. They may not know how to get a bike tuned correctly with one , but they'll know how to manipulate the device... The DL really seems to be the ticket, but it would be REALLY nice if it was easy to use like the PCIII... Al... It would be really nice if the DL could incoorporate a better O2 so that instead of a too high/too low throwing off the AFV, you could set it to center the AFV using whatever value you'd like to see out of the O2... Wouldn't this eliminate the AFV skew? That's something I never really thought of with the DL... The ECM still thinks it's always shooting for the AF ratio it wants right? Just like with the TFI? This causes the AFV to move just like with the TFI? Damn... It's beginning to look like the mega squirt really is the best answer for any internal combustion engine . |
|