| Author | Message | ||
     Aussie_buell |
ok, I have just about had enough of the oil topics, no offence guys, i too am still non the wiser and dont know which oil to use and never seem to get the official word on which oil through these posts. What i would like to see is someone or a couple of guys post and put this issue to rest once and for all. Not just what you use and its pretty good. I want to see what is the best and has factory backing but also performance (ie better gear change etc). Where are these so called authorities on BUELL when you need em. they come around to stir the sh*t when there are rumours and post as anonymous but never see them when it is important issues like this. Surely someone on here works at Buell or HD that can shed some light. Does'nt this site have a little pull in regards to its size and representation of the Buell product? Perhaps there is a body out there who could access and recieve a full confirmation on what oil we are supposes to be using and what is the best performance based oil. Please help and end this confusion so we can all ride in peace knowing we are doing the right thing. signed anonymous  | ||
| Chris_in_tn |
"Factory Backing".....Factory oil. Harley 20-50 or Syn3 20-50. Whew! | ||
| Jaimec |
Amen. And the "factory" says if you can't get the "official Harley branded oil" then use oil formulated for diesel engines. I don't know WHY they'd say that, as any premium quality oil blended for motorcycle use will work as well. I guess I'm thinking if you're on the road nowhere near a dealership, you can get the diesel-type lubricating oil easier than you can find motorcycle lubricating oil. Geez, why does everybody OBSESS on this topic anyway?? Use a premium grade motorcycle oil and change it at the recommended intervals (along with the filter). PERIOD. DONE DEAL. NOTHING ELSE TO THINK ABOUT!! | ||
| Roly |
hi it all comes out the same hole in the ground and goes back into it. | ||
| No_rice |
WE ARE SUPPOSED TO PUT OIL IN THESE THINGS???? | ||
| Bumblebee |
DAG NABIT! Oily OIL! That's it! Bumblebee’s rules for oil: Use the oil grade specified for the motorcycle. If it says 20/50 then use that. The brand is not important. Yeah Yeah, Sp*ctro, R*dline, M*tul etc. will tell 'ya not to use "car oil"-but what is car oil? My cage manual tells me to use 5/20, So I put it in, so therefore by default it's "car oil", same brand but 20/50, I put that into the bike, now it's bike oil. It's what they told me to use, so its specification is right for the bike, its bike oil. If the viscosity is too light (5/20CAR OIL) in your Buell that wants 20/50 (BIKE OIL) when the engine gets good and warm the oil will be way to light and the pump may not have sufficient volume to pressurize the oil system properly starving the top end for lubrication. In some extreme instances oil of too light a viscosity may become aerated to the point it cavatates the oil pump, and once again no oil where it belongs. Bumblebee has all sorts of training, wrenched on a race team (we did good) and worked wrenching (and managing service departments) at several dealers (including Harley-Davidson)- and my profound observation? The only oil I have seen damage an engine is oil that wasn't where it was supposed to have been. This from the hapless yutz running the bike out of oil (popular in oil injected 2 strokes (70’s vintage K*wasaki triples and Y*maha 2 strokes come to mind)) or in run to death small displacement freeway ridden bikes owned by disinterested commuters or oil pump failures (popular on AMF era Shovelheads). SO! Put the right grade of oil in. Change it when you are supposed to and ride! Wanna use Synthetic? Spend your ca$h, it won’t hurt it; wanna use Pensoil/Castrol/Kendall/Chevron/Puratech/Quaker State? Fine, ride on and enjoy. As long as it’s the right viscosity it won’t hurt anything. REALLY!  | ||
| New12r |
The factory sure dont know a thing about oil now do they?? Car oil, uhhhh never! Detergent! | ||
| Sloppy |
The reason HD/Buell specifies API-C oils is due to the larger clearances that air cooled engines require; you'll get greater blow by and hence contamination of the oil. C oils have greater detergent capabilities than S oils. Detergents hold the impurities in the oil so it can be filtered out. There are also other additives that make a difference as well. Use the oil that is specified!!! API-C, high viscocity (15-50, 20-50, 60, etc.). How many millions of dollars did HD spend on the R&D of their evolution engine? They have a whole lot more invested in their engine than any of our opinions!!! The specified oil is found EVERYWHERE so why use something different... to tempt fate??? | ||
| Jaimec |
There are detergents in motorcycle oils too. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
All oil is slimey. Some oils lose slimey as they get hot. All oils lose slimey as they get heated and cooled too much. Use oils that remain slimey longer. Change oil often so that the heating and cooling doesn't take all the slimey out. Slimey is good! | ||
| Blake |
Then you should rename yourself "Slmy_bstrd".  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Only when I eat WOW chips and get oily anal discharge. | ||
| Blake |
Dude. TMI!!! SHEESH! | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
 | ||
| Brucelee |
"hi it all comes out the same hole in the ground and goes back into it" well, not really. True syn oil is not made from Petroleum base stocks. Then again, it appears that Syn3 is not really a syn, so you may be right! | ||
| Brucelee |
It is pretty funny when Buell specifies a particular rating on the other oils to be used in our bikes but does not reveal what Syn 3 is spec at, who makes it or what's in it. For their prices, you can buy Red Line oil. Caveat Emptor. | ||
| Sloppy |
That's because HD doesn't want to pay API (American Petroleum Institute) for the rights to their "Starburst Symbol" and rating... anyone can ship a sample of any oil to a lab and have it tested to determine what kind of oil it is. | ||
| Brucelee |
Everyone else ponies up the money, why shouldn't HD. My understanding is that sell a ton of this oil. Moreover, the oil company that manufactures the oil could do it. Sorry, I am not paying for a oil analysis and pay HD $8.95 for their make believe synthetic oil. Red Line it is. (Message edited by brucelee on October 02, 2006) | ||
| Sloppy |
Honda doesn't have all their fluids rated either... and they're 100,000 times bigger than HD!!! Of course, there's nothing wrong with Redline, Mobil1, Amsoil, RP, etc. They all make superior fluids... | ||
| Reepicheep |
Harley took the money they would have spent on the starburst symbol, and spent it sponsoring the XBRR. Not really, but I think they are an XBRR sponsor. It's good oil, buy it if it is convenient and you are willing to pay that much money for good oil by a "group" willing to sponsor the XBRR race bike. | ||
| Bads1 |
Ok,ok guys I have the solution to all your oil needs. I was saving this for myself but I figured the BadWeb needed to know this one. This is water based and slippery as hell. It will be quick in warming and if your bike starts to burn some it'll at least smell good. Dump one bottle of this in with your next oil change... your bike will love you for it.  | ||
| Perry |
You need a 20-50 oil as recommended. Factory recommends only their own stuff, as has been stated - nothing magical about Harley oil except the name and the price. Synthetics are actually superior, proven a million times. They lubricate better, last better, and handle heat better (among a few other things). Choose a quality real synthetic like a 15-50 or 20-50 and you are set! Or, go with a regular 20-50 API-C rated oil, including the Harley stuff - Buell says that will be good enough. Personally, I use Mobil1 15-50 because it is much better than what is recommended, is readily available, and not too expensive. That said, oil is like politics and religion - every answer is different and often the opinions are passionate, and some even irrational.  That's why this keeps coming up. | ||
| Buellnick |
MC oil has more zinc and phosphorus in it. These are good things to have in excess when you are pushing any motor, especially in high temps. For most street use situations, put high quality oil with the correct weight for the temp conditions... However, it never hurts to use the best. One of the best is AMSOIL. I use AMSOIL Series 2000 Racing Oil (20w50) - the red stuff) in the crankcase; Syn3 or AMSOIL MC Oil in the transmission. However Mobil1 and Syn3 are right up there...Silkolene is good stuff too in 15W50. Change it as required and just ride. | ||
| Bumblebee |
>>Use the oil that is specified!!! API-C, high viscocity (15-50, 20-50, 60, etc.).<<< Extremely good point Sloppy; Any oil that's 15/50, 20/50 or greater except SAE 50 or 60 (100 /105P) IS by default is API-C. API classifications mimic the viscosity ratings. Brand of oil isn't important.  Even "Rugged" brand motor oil sold at a no name gas station in Hollister carried the API-C pedigree on their 20/50 oil.  All the manufacturers have everyone all whipped up into a froth in believing that their oil, and only their oil will possess the magic properties to keep your baby purring forever (did you really want it to last forever?) and nothing else is good enough! | ||
| Etennuly |
I run HD 50 in warm months and HD20/50 in cold months. The 20/50 seems to disappear when it is hot out but is easier on the engine when it is cold. The 50 keeps the engine quieter when the weather is hot and doesn't disappear, but it would make starting and warm up harder on the engine in cold temperatures. Just change it when recommended (the book is good). Everything else that I own gets Mobil-1, but it makes my Buell engines noisy no matter what viscosity I've tried. | ||
| Sloppy |
I would caution on brand of oil. I've run a few tests and have noted a substantial loss in viscocity when running a "generic" brand vs. a brand name. While both may meet the API requirements, brand name oils are of significantly higher quality. This is likely due to the fact that they need to meet more than the API rating, but also their business relies on keeping a good name. I typically choose a brand that supports the kind of racing I like to watch. I would liken it to soda pop. Almost everyone makes a cola beverage, but Pepsi and Coke are consistently the best. | ||
| Teddagreek |
Currently Running Redline 20/50 and MT90 Gear Oil Mobil One Oil Filter. I've ran syn 3 but I'm not sold on it. | ||
| Buellnick |
The Euro 4T racing oils are also excellent... Mobil 1 4T 15W50 ($50/gallon) ...also Silkolene 4T 15W50 Triumph recommends - and they are not trying to package their "own" oil. BTW: been told that Syn3 is made by Sunoco. The Syn3 stuff came out pretty good in independent testing but not the best... AMSOIL and MOBIL 1 were on top. | ||
| Metalstorm |
I've been using HD Syn 3 with out complaints. It is pricey but I found a good HD/Buell shop just 25 miles away that are Buell friendly so I consider it worth it to pay a couple dollars more to give this shop my business & remind them that Buell is here to stay | ||
| Mesafirebolt |
The Amsoil Dealer is 2 blocks from my house...AND I got a sticker from them... I run Amsoil | ||
| Teeps |
Mesafirebolt Posted on Friday, October 06, 2006 The Amsoil Dealer is 2 blocks from my house...AND I got a sticker from them... I run Amsoil As good a reason as any...  |
