| Author | Message | ||
     Xb9ser |
Just wanted to say I am the latest member of chain gang so far love it!! I now feel more like I will get home after a long Ride!! after my belt issues.  | ||
| Twig |
Congrats Glenn! Can't wait to check it out in a couple of weeks. See ya then. Later... | ||
| Hammer71 |
Wait untill you start changing the sprocket gearing and notice the drive you get out of corners. Big smiles | ||
| Xb9ser |
Thanks Twig and Hammer, Yall know where I got it!! | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
How much does a complete set up cost?(roughly) The set up Hammer is using looks to be the way i wish to go. I am seriously tempted to get a chain conversion now. | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
Anybody done a chain conversion on an S3T? | ||
| Crashm1 |
That's easy, call AL at American Sport Bike. | ||
| Ronlv |
congrats and welcome to the gang | ||
| Diablobrian |
Welcome to the Chain Gang!  | ||
| Fullpower |
getting a little crowded here in the chain gang. my spare rear is a vortex 51 tooth, should be a touch more torque. | ||
| Diablobrian |
What are you running for a front fullpower? A 51 tooth rear would make my first gear almost useless! | ||
| Fullpower |
currently running 21 front, 50 rear, (almost)exactly duplicates stock ratio.  | ||
| Diablobrian |
Ok, I'm running 20f 46r = 2.3:1 ratio you're running...21f 50r = 2.38:1 ratio If I was to try 20f 51r = 2.55:1 which isn't as dramatic as I had pictured it being, but still.. For you it would be 21f 51r = 2.43:1. According to Buell.com they are claiming stock is 27f 65r = 2.4 final Which means I should be running a 20f 48r to match stock. I think Hal's was trying to offset the 9 primary gearing to give me combined final drive ratio closer to what the 12 has. I probably will make the change this winter, and it should make my bike more of a handful than it is now.  I highly recommend 1250 kits with 9 pistons! and chain final drives of course. (as long as you wear your gear every time you ride  ) ***Looking at TIM *** For those questioning the numbers smaller numbers for example 2.2:1 would be tall gearing which would mean greater fuel economy and higher top speed (if you have the hp to pull it) A larger number 2.6:1 would have less fuel economy, and much greater wheelie potential, and drive out of corners, is considered low gearing. (Message edited by diablobrian on September 26, 2006) | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Real Men Run Chain. No question there, am I right, my brothers? The only question is, what gears do they run? As previously posted, I decided to gear down a little for the following reasons: 1. better acceleration 2. I don't do any top speed work at all. 3. I would be surprised if my bike would pull top speed with me aboard with the S front end. I normally ride the tight stuff with the usual sportbike suspects, so I can use all the acceleration I can get. I have the Nine primary gears. (57/34 ) and 46/20 on my secondary, giving me a total gear ratio of 3.85 compared to 3.6 total reduction for a stock XB12S. That works out to about 130 mph at 6800 rpm with a Dunlop Qualifier, compared to the Stock 139, which I think might be a bit optimistic for a 235# rider and an S rather than a R front end. Not that I have any place to test it, living on Long Island. In addition, I do like the look of the smaller rear sprocket, especially when compared with that big old black pulley that comes on the stock bicycle. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Besides the ability to more easily change gearing, what is the benefit of the chain drive? | ||
| No_rice |
less down time and less likely being stranded or having to see 7 belts this season  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I guess I need to ride harder! | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Another big advantage is the easy of changing the rear wheel when changing tires, which is something one does rather often with soft sport tires. Taking the wheel off with a chain drive really takes about five minutes. Taking one off a bike with full belt guards takes almost a half hour if you do it according to the book. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I need to ride harder. | ||
| Slaughter |
Generally MOST sportbikes are geared too high off the showroom. Not just Buells. If fuel economy is the ONLY consideration, they're just fine but overall performance needs to see just a tad more poop in the acceleration department. Few folks really need the top speed. give up 5-7mph in exchange for more FUN. | ||
| Diablobrian |
Absolutely true on all points Slaughter. | ||
| Xxxb9s |
Hi Fullpower, from the pic you've posted I can't see any tensioner system, I mean I don't know how can you tighten the chain after it stretches with the use. The chain conversion mods I've seen so far had a different rear swingarm that could allow rear axle position regulation. can you please also tell me the place you bought the kit from and how much it costed (roughly) thanks (Message edited by xxxb9s on September 27, 2006) | ||
| Trojan |
The Adrenalin-Moto/Free Spirits chain kit has an adjustable tensioner system that allows a lot of adjustment. This is possible to do by adapting the stock item by cutting a slot in it, although this can be problematic and can allow the tension to slip.  It comes with two inserts to allow more adjustment. | ||
| Fullpower |
looks good there trojan, nice piece. For details of my chain drive setup, please look in the Knowledge Vault section. You will find much information. | ||
| Perry |
Diablobrian said: I highly recommend 1250 kits with 9 pistons! Wow, going from a v-twin to a 9 cylinder engine must be quite a change! The headers must look pretty wild too!  | ||
| Diablobrian |
Radial engine Buells Rock! Jesse James' radial chopper has nothing on me!  (Actually I was referring to the high dome xb9 pistons instead of the flat top xb12 pistons, but you probably knew that ) | ||
| Trojan |
I highly recommend 1250 kits with 9 pistons! Diablo, What is the compression ratio for this conversion? And what fuel do you use? We run Wiseco 12:1 pistons in stock (+0.040") bores this year using Sunoco 109 Octane unleaded. I was thinking of going 1250 for next season but want to keep the high compression ratio. I was under the (mistaken?) impression that using the 9 pistons would give a compression ratio in excess of 13:1? (Message edited by trojan on September 28, 2006) | ||
| Mesafirebolt |
Maybe the top of the 9 piston could be shaved down a tad to lower it to a more respectable 11:1 | ||
| Revperf |
Hey Matt, If you just drop the pistons from a 9 into a 12 at standard bore the CR goes to 12:1 with a stock head gasket. 3 9/16" piston from a 1050cc kit makes a bit more than that when used with the 12 crank. | ||
| Trojan |
Thanks for the quick response I think we may go down that route next year. So long as the CR isn't through the roof (over 13.5:1) we should be fine | ||
| Diablobrian |
11.43:1 is my CR I run 93 octane. 91 if I HAVE to. I haven't run into any issues with pinging/detonation, but I'm pretty picky about my fuel, and Hal's tuned it. (Message edited by diablobrian on September 28, 2006) | ||
| Vaneo1 |
Im thinking about the chain, but how do you adjust it? Does the idle pulley still produce the same amount of tension on the chain as the belt? | ||
| Slaughter |
You can do 90+ % of your chain adjustment by busting out or adding links and riveting/re-riveting. That Trojan adjuster might make gearing changes MUCH MORE convenient if you're changing one or two teeth - you shouldn't have to change chain length. Looks like Matt and Company are doing their homework. | ||
| Trojan |
Our adjuster has two different length threaded rods included with the kit, so it can cope with a lot more tan 1 or 2 teeth. We also carry two different length spare chains for the race bike just in case we need to change more than that, but it isn't very often these get used. We have found this year that the torque of the bike means that the difference between the fastest and slowest circuits is only 3-4 teeth on the rear or one front. | ||
| Fullpower |
tension--- NO, with a chain, the operative parameter is SLACK. |
