| Author | Message | ||
     Espcustoms |
I just got past my electrical problems (for the moment) and now have a new problem that I'm hoping you guys can help me with. One of the studs in the front cylinder for the exhaust broke off about 1/2" inside. The threads I could see were pretty torn up, but I figured it would be no big deal to easy-out the remainder of the stud and get a new one in there. So, I drilled the stud and went at it with an easy-out. It didn't want to budge and I could tell it was pretty corroded in there. I squeeze in a liberal amount of Liquid Wrench and let it sit a few minutes. Just when I was about to give up, "SNAP!" The easy out broke off. This is a new one for me. What the hell do I do now???? | ||
| Davo |
I would try to get the easy out removed by turning it clockwise with a drill bit or a small flat head screw driver. You might sacrifice a drill bit to start a small hole and then put the next larger bit in the hole and rotate the easy out out. That is the hard part. Then I would heat the head up by running the bike for a short while and try to remove it again with a new easy out. The oil should penetrate with some added heat. If it still feels too tight I would take a very small punch and rap on the back of the stud several times to shock the seize threads loose and try again. Good Luck! | ||
| Espcustoms |
Thanks Davo, I'll give that a try. | ||
| Jimduncan69 |
that sucks, those easy outs are hard. i have broke one on my work van. i had a starter bolt break off and i used a easy out on it and it broke off in it. i spent the rest off the day drilling out the easy out with a carbide tipped bit. good luck i have been there and don't want to go back! | ||
| Crashm1 |
That happened to me to I used it for an excuse to buy some hot rod heads from Revolution Performance and a race header. | ||
| Brupska |
If the easy out doesn't work. You might try using a drill bit to make a slot for a flat screwdriver bit and then using a impact screw driver on it after you heat up the bolt and use liquid wrench on it. I would only use that as a last resort though. You might have to totally drill out the bolt and helicoil it also. The put a exhaust stud in it. | ||
| Espcustoms |
I'll have to go get some new easy-outs and get after this tomorrow. I hope I can avoid having to remove the header to get this resolved, but it's starting to look like that may not be possible. I wonder what will break next. | ||
| Mesafirebolt |
I have broken my fair share of easy outs. unless you can back it out some how (turn it CLOCKWISE) they are next to impossible to remove. You'll need things like a die grinder and cobalt drill bits. Be careful, work slow and try using a pick or something that you can try to slide down the flutes and pry out. Use lots of penetrating fluid, it helps. IF you can get on the broken part with vice grips remember to turn CLOCKWISE to remove. And in the future always try to use the largest easy out you can to avoid breakage. | ||
| Espcustoms |
Thanks for the advice. I can definitely use all I can get. I know it's going to be a rough road to get this resolved. Getting the easy-out removed will be bad enough and even then I will only be back to where I started. | ||
| Fireflyer |
Just wondering how it broke. Did it just break on it's own or were you working on it? Thanks. | ||
| Pounder |
colbalt drill bits wont cut a easy out thats just hopped up high speed steal realy a carbide drill is the only way easyouts are hard as crap im a machinist and had to dig out my fair share of easyout's using a drill trin to back it out is a great ideah if you can get it to bite it just may back out | ||
| Mojave_mike |
I found that if you drill your pilot hole bigger than necessary (thinking you are doing yourself a favor), the easy out will bite into the thin wall of the stud and expand it to where it's digging into the threads of the tapped hole. The more you tighten, the worse the situation gets...then it breaks. Mike | ||
| Anomaly |
or just try to tack weld a square head on it (temp of course) and use a wrench to back it out. just my 0.02... Good luck | ||
| Yohinan |
Erik, If you run into too many issues with this I am willing and ready to help. I am in San Diego roughly where the 15 and 8 freeways cross. If you are at your wits end or just dont feel like doing this yourself and you have a way to get the bike down here ( or just the head itself) I can assist you with this. I have a bit (ok, a lot) of experience with this specific issue. If your doing this job with the head on the bike I would stop there. The head needs to come off the bike to be absolutely sure your doing things correctly. I have the correct "easy outs" and "bits" for this job, although I dont have the Jim's tool. Then again I dont think this would really work because you have the easy out broke off in there already. Let me know if I can be of any assistance. John | ||
| Espcustoms |
Thanks guys. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get at it yet - just been busy with other stuff. Hopefully, I'll be able to make some headway wit it later this week. Yohinan, I really appreciate your offer and just may take you up on it if I can't manage myself. I don't think it will take long for me to get to the end of my capabilities with this. In fact, I may have already exceeded them! | ||
| Yohinan |
Erik, Whatever you do though please do no try to do this with the head on the motor/bike. I promise you things will go south very quickly! Let me know and I am available the majority of weekends. John | ||
| Espcustoms |
John, what's the risk of doing this with the head still on? If I have to go through all the hassle to get the head off, I'd like to know why I'm doing it. I must say, I'm beginning to think that I might have to sell this bike once I get this fixed. It feels like I got a real lemon and I can't help but wonder what's going to break next - and where will I be when it happens??? | ||
| Yohinan |
Why do I say not to do this with the head on the bike? I dont know anyone that can hold a drill precisely still so you can drill straight into the broken stud/easy out? If you do not drill straight into the stud then all of this work will be for nothing as you might drill into the head. Then it's head replacement time. Not a chance I would want to take just to keep myself from having to pull a head. Pulling the head actually sounds harder than it really is. After I did it for the first time I thought to myself wow that was really easy. The biggest problem now is getting the broken easy out removed from the head. If it was just the stud it would be extremely easy. Dont let this broken stud issue make you want to get rid of the bike. As soon as the stud and easy out are removed and you get everything buttoned back up and your riding again you will lose all thoughts of wanting to get rid of the bike. | ||
| Darthane |
While I can understand your frustration, having helped you work through your electrical problems, your bike isn't a 'lemon'. ...all of your problems were different!  | ||
| Espcustoms |
Well, I guess I better get to reading about everything involved in removing the head. I may have already jacked it up a bit when drilling it to put the easy out in it in the first place. Since the stud had broken off at an angle, I had a hell of a time getting a hole to start in the center. I know you guys are right about me just needing to get past my issues with it, but that's exactly what I thought when I ran into my second electrical short. All of the problems I've had have been stupid little things with no cost in parts to repair. However, they've cost me about half of the time I've owned the bike in down-time and the whole reason I bought this bike in the first place was because I was tired of spending more time wrenching on my previous bike than riding it. I LOVE my XB when it's on the road, but the continuous issues and total lack of any dealer support in my area are making me wonder if this was not the best choice for me. Regardless, I have to get this exhaust stud issue fixed. We'll just see how I feel once I get that far. | ||
| Yohinan |
Erik, If your going to continue to tackle the stud issue by yourself and you dont have a FSM then I would highly recommend you purchase one. If you already have one then disregard my post. John | ||
| Espcustoms |
Yeah, I got the FSM as soon as I got the bike. Definitely worth every penny. I've got a friend who's very skilled in these matters so I'm hoping he will be able to help me get it solved on I get the head pulled. I'll break out my FSM tonight and start figuring out the process for that. If my buddy can't help, then I'll hit you up John. | ||
| Yohinan |
Helpful hint since you need to make it through the easy out (they are extremely hard)... Make sure when your drilling this you only use a drill bit meant for this type of work. IE.. Maybe say a 140 degree split point with a carbide tip. Or if money is free to throw around look at some diamond tipped drill bits. They are a lot more expensive then the carbide tipped ones but it's like a knife going through butter, figuratively speaking. |
