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Buell Motorcycle Forum » XBoard » Buell XBoard Archives » Archive through July 30, 2006 » Rotated your engine « Previous Next »

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Xb12rdude
Posted on Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 05:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Who has followed the manual to rotate the engine down to get to the rear header bolts? was it hard, any problems and how long did it take? Thanks guys.
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Brineusaf
Posted on Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 05:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I think i saw something on here where someone possibly removed rear shock and fan and got to the bolts that way, but i am not sure.

I haven't done it... good luck!
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Xb12rdude
Posted on Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 08:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I think I remember seeing that also. I just want to know which is the less painful and quick to perform.
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Rr_eater
Posted on Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 08:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Rotating the engine is not NEARLY as tough as it may sound. Once you have done it, you will be like "Wow, that was not all that bad!!"

PROMISE

Search my posts or others, a couple of us have done extensive write ups about it, it realy is a breeze, and you do NOT need to remove as much stuff as the manual calls for!!

Good luck!

Bruce
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Odinbueller
Posted on Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 09:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Rotating an engine is not that intimidating as long as you have the right tools. Once done, you'll see where you can combine steps or skip steps to get the same effect.

Really not that big of a deal if you're mechanically inclined.
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Xb12rdude
Posted on Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 10:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

ummm, "right tools"..........Anything special or normal tools. I though I saw a post about going thru the fan area being easer also, any thoughts on that.
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Firebolteric_ma
Posted on Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 11:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i remember that post. someone said they were GOING to go through the time to remove the shock and fan but he never did upon further investigation..it then it stated he actually rotated the engine and was surprised at how easy it was. i only remember because i am planning to do this in the next week or so and was curios of this idea also
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Pupu
Posted on Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 11:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i saw it, showed the bike without the shock and fan.
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M1combat
Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 12:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've rotated mine three times now and I can't imagine the shock removal being any easier than rotating the engine...

It's really a piece of cake. It's made a bit easier if you have swing arm sliders. You don't need to remove the clutch cable, but make sure it gets moved out of the way of the front of the primary as it comes down. Watch for tightening wires up top as you slowly lower the engine. Loosen the coil (take the bolts out, but you don't need to actually remove the coil). If you need to lower it a long ways it's probably a good idea to remove the snorkel as it can get smooshed and will place stress on the intake manifold.

It's really pretty easy... I think the last time I did it for a header swap it took me about two hours for the entire process aside from taking 20-30 minutes to absolutely DESTROY a ho-po O2 sensor that I used to use with my power commander... Threw the old Force header straight into the trash with the destroyed O2 sensor still attached. Header was still good but I figured it would net me some bad Karma if I burdened anyone else's existence with it. I kept the "muffler" though : ). Sometimes you just gotta be loud : ).
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M1combat
Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 12:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The fan is a prick to remove : ). So is the fricking GRILL on the fan... sheesh. I suppose it would have been ok if I had removed the body work and subframe but that's more work than an engine rotation...

Just for the record... The worst thing I've ever attempted on any vehicle was trying to replace an O2 sensor on my 12R w/o removing the fan OR rotating the engine in a parking lot in the sun in Arizona with just a crows foot, 6" extension, wobbly and a ratchet... Don't try that one. It CAN be done though : ).
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Buelltroll
Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 12:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Removing the fan and shock consists of like 6 bolts,Can't imagine rotating the engine down is that easy.
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T9r
Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 07:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I have used both methods. Depending on the type of work you have to do to which method is most effective.

If your just pulling the header off, then pulling the shock and fan is the easier route. Also disconnect the Y-support on the frame and front of the engine. Crows foot wrenches are almost a must.

Enjoy.
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Hogs
Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 07:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

HEy Guys,
Just wondering as I have heard that on a xb12 ,there is just not enough clearance to remove the header by just removing the shock & fan (with header nuts removed)? Now is this correct as perhaps with the smaller Diam. size of the xb9 header this could be done???
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Firebolteric_ma
Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 07:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i will be taking my headers off next weekend. i have an xb12r. i would like to also know which is the best way to accomplish this task. either way i decide to go i will take pictures along the way to help others that need to do this same thing.

so far rotating the engine seems to be the easiest way to accomplish this, for easy access to the header bolts....nothing worse than trying to do it an easier way, and when you are there you can only turn bolt 1/16 turn at a time..


hogs----------those pictures were posted for you on that header thingy(seems to be my favorite word for that thingy)
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Hogs
Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 08:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks pal....
HAd a fella try to get his header off a 12 ,By just removing shock/fan I guess they could get the header bolts off this way,but seems not enough room to physically get the header out,they had to rotate to remove header.Now like I said maybe the 9 can be done others here will know perhaps.
First time rotating was an experince, and a good one, Know alot more how the girl is put together NoW, Piece of cake afterwards having done it.

(Message edited by hogs on July 28, 2006)
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Firebolteric_ma
Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 10:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

cool information to know then. won't waist my time w/ the fan/shock option then. the header is a very tight fit indeed. not to much room for movement. i think i will go with the rotate engine option. shouldn't be to bad. i am pretty good with this stuff and i have plenty of tools. looks to be a fun job. these bikes come apart so easy..way better than any others i have owned. buell did an excellent job making it user friendly for the most part.

thanks guys!
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Hogs
Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 10:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

OH...
Also keep an eye when ya lower the engine on your throttle cables, as they do get tight I think next time I wd. remove the cables, but each to their own....Just something to watch as ya do it,and yes removing the two fasteners for the coil does help, and be easy on some of the smaller torque fasteners when ya retorque.
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Buelldyno_guy
Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 11:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Like others have posted the rotation is easy. It only takes about 30 to 45 min. I have done it so many times I can do the header swap in under 30 min, not counting the muffler. There are the three links to disconnect one has the clutch cable clamp. The LH air scoop and three allen screws on the sub frame then the airbox top and base. Put a jack under the engine and loosen the front mount bolt. It only needs to come down enough to get the last rear flange bolt and to get the header off. I have a 1/4 drive 1/2 inch flex socket I use with a long extension. I have a bigger issue with the exhaust flange sometimes. The new ones are thicker and fit kinda tight. ... Terry
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Slaughter
Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 12:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've actually fixed broken exhaust studs on the rear by rotating the engine.

Terry's suggestion on using the jack to lower the motor is RIGHT ON - you can control it pretty easily.

You don't have to take off the intake horn, it'll sorta mash into the frame as the engine rotates. You don't have to remove all the wiring either - just watch that nothing is getting pinched as you S L O W L Y rotate the motor until the rubber intake horn slightly squishes as it touches the frame.
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M1combat
Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 12:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I think the issue with removing the shock/subframe/bodywork/fan etc... is that you can't get a torque wrench on the header nut w/o the use of a wobbly extension. I could be wrong.
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T9r
Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 01:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I don't imagine a good quality universal joint would be that wobbly that I couldn't torque it down to spec.
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M1combat
Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 02:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well... You can use one, but it's not proper form to use a universal joint with a torque wrench.

I still think it's easier to rotate the engine though... It really is quite simple.

One more thing... I don't think you could actually change a header w/o rotating the engine. The rear header won't come out of the frame. There's not enough room to actually remove it w/o bending some fins (or cutting them actually). You could get to the header bolts through the rear of the bike though I suppose, so I guess it depends on what you're trying to do.

I still say the rotation is simple and easy though...

(Message edited by m1combat on July 28, 2006)
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