| Author | Message | ||
     Fl_a1a |
Hi Hi At 10K awesome miles on my 2005 12S the fuse has started to blow on the horn-breaklight circuit. The fuse goes after riding for a while. I think it must be wires rubbing on the frame. To trouble shoot I have started to disconnect parts of the circuit. -Disconnect rear break switch. -Disconnect horn. -Disconnect wire going the the break light (Taped up un-connect wires to make sure they can not ground) This means I have hot wires traveling up to the front break leaver and to the horn switch. If the fuse goes now it must be a short on 1 of those 2 paths. I been searching the knowledge base I have done the following: -checked under the fuse box for exposed wires -Check under front plastic plate for wires expose on the horn. Question: In order for the brain to know a fuse is blown on that circuit, it must send a current to that fuse. If the brain is damaged then when check the fuse it could blow it also, correct? Still left to do is to ohm the wires and to check voltage on hot wires to make sure it not leaking electrons. Also, if I put a 15 amp in place of the 10 amp fuse would that should not melt any wires correct? | ||
| Samiam |
The "brain" doesn't "know" a fuse is blown. Fuses blow when their amp rating is reached on their circuit, preventing further damage to your wires/battery/ecm. that rating is usually reached when there is a short somewhere in the circuit, making the short the path of least resistance for the current. Putting in a higher rated fuse could make it not blow, but you could create bigger problems if there is a short. Have you upgraded the horn/brake light? If you want to try to narrow it down further, see if it blows only when you use the horn, or if it blows when you hit the brake. If not that, it could be somewhere up to either of those two switches or just the tail light. Hope this makes sense. Sam | ||
| Fl_a1a |
Sam Thanks for the input. All parts on my bike are stock. I did try isolating the circuit to see if the fuse would go by using only the horn or brake with no luck. Question: When the fuse blows the check engine light comes on. After I replace the fuse it turns back off. So the brain/ecm must have some method of knowing that the fuse has blown. If not buy send a current to horn/brake circuit then how? Also note that the problem started happening after I was sitting in stop go traffic for about an hour. Me and the bike got really hot, but not so hot to make the ECM turn off the back piston. I know when solid state device get toasted one of the symptoms is voltages go up and down on the input / outputs pings. I was thinking maybe the heat toasted my ECM. I could take the bike to the dealer but I want to ride, not wait. Plus my edumacation involved basic analog and digital circuits so I can conduct test that can provide additional info if I have to take it to the dealer. If I do take to the dealer I know they don't do a whole lot of troubleshooting. The algorithm is usually to throw parts at the bike. I was think I should lead them down the this path: 1.Replace brake light, may be faulty. 2.Replace fuse box. 3.Replace wire harness 4.Replace horn 5.Replace brake switches on front and back. Also, it has crossed my mind to put a variable resistor coming out of fuse box feeding the horn and brake light. This way I can turn the resistance up until the problem goes away. | ||
| Samiam |
Since you say the check engine light comes on, that would tell me that the ECM has some sort of taillight sensing circuit, unless that fuse is used by something in addition to what you are saying. The reason why I am saying taillight sensing and not horn or brake light is because: 1.I don't have my horn hooked up right now(I have HID installed and don't have room for my horn, will be fixing that) and don't have a check engine light 2.The brake light is turned on with a switch, which is open normally. Sensing this circuit would make no sense (no pun intended) Therefore, I would trace your tail light (as well as license plate light) wires all the way to your fuse box, both the power wire and the ground wire. Make sure the power wire and the ground wire aren't shorting out to each other. Also check that "sensing" wire if you can find it. Since you discovered this problem when your bike was very hot, you'll most likely find a melted something somewhere. The problem isn't going to be past the fuse box(as I'm sure you've already figured out) because then the fuse wouldn't blow, you'd just have a melted wire and a dead battery. I would definitely check out the tail light, and the license plate light. If either of them are faulty that could definitely cause your problem. If you were to add a variable resistor, you might be able to avert the problem for a little bit, but you would just make your lights/horn dim/weak. Also if this is a short, the current would still take the easiest path (the short) and blow the fuse anyway(less resistance to go through a fuse than a resistor). Forgive my typing style, I'm pretty much thinking on the fly here. Hope this helps, Sam | ||
| Fl_a1a |
Thanks Sam! You bring up some good points I did not think about which is very helpful is further isolating the problem. I just got back from a ride and it blew a fuse, this is with the brake light and horn disconnect. To see if it is a faulty ECM or Faulty either to the horn or brake switches I guess I could do the following. At the fuse box cut the wires going to the horn switch and brake switches. Hook them back one at a time, only have one hooked up at a time and see which one blows the fuse. Any other thoughts. I wonder If I can pull the wire out of the harness vs. cutting the wires and then re-taping them. | ||
| Samiam |
Glad I could lend a hand. You may be able to just unplug the wires from the back of the fuse box. Maybe not, I can't remember. If your fuse box wire cutting idea proves successful, then you definitely have a shorted wire somewhere "south" of the fuse box. Good news is you'll know which wire. Good luck, Sam | ||
| Yeags30 |
how long does it take the fuse to blow?? Does it blow immediately or does it happen sometime while riding?? | ||
| Yeags30 |
why not test the horn for continuity to ground?? Same with the tail light and switches?? | ||
| Samiam |
In his first post it says "The fuse goes after riding for a while." It would be good to find out whether the replacement fuses are slow blow or fast blow. If my assumptions are correct they should be fast blow. Sam | ||
| Samiam |
Yegas, It would not make sense to test the continuity of the horn to ground, since if it works, it has good continuity. Same for the taillight. That is not the issue. The issue is too much continuity from the power wire to ground before the horn/light/switch(short). | ||
| Fl_a1a |
Hey To isolate if I have a wire grounding out from back of the bike to front I want to cut the hot wires in the fuse-horn circuit. Does know what the two color schemes for these to wires: 1-hot wire going to the horn switch. 2-hot wire going the front brake light switch. I don't have a wiring diagram. Thanks for all the help so far  | ||
| Samiam |
just look on the back of the fuse that's blowing, cut one of the wires there, and see what stops working. Then you'll know which one that is. Crude, yes, but that's all I know to do since I don't have a wiring diagram and my service manual is in the mail from Al. Sam | ||
| Brineusaf |
need me to scan the wiring diagram of the 06 manual (don't have an 05)? I can scan it and post it for you if you wish. if so email me... as i might not check this thread right away | ||
| Brihumphries3988 |
same problem on my 2006 xb9 with 200 miles on it .. i found the 30 amp was the only fuse that would work on the ignition circuit ,it kept blowing 15,20 ,25 it was the only way to i could get home easter sunday. when i took it in for service they said the dyno wire was rubbing on the frame . ? it has a 15 in there now and no problems ...i don't know where or what color it was ... maybe a similar wiring harness problem.. ask a teck maybe a service notices good luck  | ||
| Fl_a1a |
Sam Your the man. I did not think there would be two wires go into that fuse ( thought they may have been splice together somewhere else. However on removing a mile of black tape two orange wires go right into that fuse. One gotta be for the break and of the horn I imagine. Thanks for the good idea. | ||
| Fl_a1a |
There is a wire diagram in the 06 owners manual? My 05 manual does not have one  Hey Brineusaf If not too much of a problem I'll take you up on your offer or anyone else that can shoot me a wire diagram. My email is: nospam357-xbs12@yahoo.com Members of this board Rock! The owner of this board should have a paypal link so members can make donations. I'm planning to buy something from the sponsors but gotta save up since I'm on a budget...but I would donate $10 bucks here and there if there was a paypal link. (Message edited by Fl_a1a on July 04, 2006) | ||
| Fl_a1a |
I got my wire diagram thanks to Brineusaf. I'm stoked. So if I wanted to upload for others on the board is there a way to get around the size limit. Does anyone have a website they can post to and just put a link to it from this message board...if so email me and I'll send the wire diagram so other buellers can benefit from the knowledge. | ||
| Eric_m |
hello accorrding to a 2003 book that circuit feeds the speedo assbly.,Horn,rear brake light and turn signal flasher.Two wire colors feed these o/w= orange/white.Flasher then is spliced into the speedo assbly.,then to license plate light then to headlamp,then to tail lamp.Then there is the orange wire that feeds the brake light circuits on the other side of the fuse. Any of these will cause the fuse to pop if grounded or overloaded.Get yourself a test light and start at the add on light etc.then go up to the switches and look for any chaffing of the wiring harness along the way especially at the triple clamp/ neck area.Hope this helps. | ||
| Lonexb |
a while back some people were having problems with the wire that is run to the horn. it would get chaffed and ground out. check the knowledge vault, you may be able to find your answer there. brian | ||
| Fl_a1a |
Found it...it is the iteractive muffler...disconnect the servo and my fuse no longer blows. I wonder if there is friction on the cable causing it not move freely which cause excess load on the servo and therefore on the circuit causing the fuse to go. |
