Author |
Message |
Slickster
| Posted on Sunday, July 02, 2006 - 10:01 am: |
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After 8000 miles one of the right side cam position sensor cover plate pop rivets has wore thru the shank and the other is close. Are there options other than reusing pop rivets? Has anyone tapped threads into the plate and used a threaded fastener and loctite? Looking for options. Thanks Wayne |
Ducxl
| Posted on Sunday, July 02, 2006 - 10:11 am: |
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i remember from my old Sportsters where there were tapped holes behind the cover that can be used for resecuring a new plate. THe holes may be at 90 degrees from the original but,there are options there |
Nwxb9s
| Posted on Sunday, July 02, 2006 - 11:08 am: |
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http://www.americansportbike.com part number A9017 - Rivet Eliminator Kit |
Buellin_ri
| Posted on Sunday, July 02, 2006 - 11:35 am: |
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There is a plate behind the cover (that I guess is the actual cover). There are 4 holes in it. You can tap these holes and buy some bolts at the hardware store for less than a dollar. |
Gentleman_jon
| Posted on Sunday, July 02, 2006 - 11:40 am: |
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Chrome plated Button Heads are a nice touch. Just drill out the rivets, remove the plate underneath. Then tap the holes that the rivets were in with a 10/32 tap, and you are good to go. On this model, the back side of the timing cover was painted with rattle can wrinkle black from the hardware store, and used as the finished surface. |
2k4xb12
| Posted on Sunday, July 02, 2006 - 11:53 am: |
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I installed rivet nuts (also called nut-serts). They are a threaded collar that installs much like a pop-rivet. http://www.gesipausa.com/rivet.htm |
Buellistic
| Posted on Sunday, July 02, 2006 - 06:41 pm: |
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In place of the pop-rivets use 2ea SCREW,self tapping PN2662W ... In BUELLing LaFayette |
Slickster
| Posted on Monday, July 03, 2006 - 09:19 am: |
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Thanks BadWeb Team As expected great responses that offer choice. I chose Buellin_RI and Gentleman_Jon's direction to tap the existing rivet clearance holes in the backplate with a 10-32 tap by hand and purchased (2) stainless steel 10-32 x 1/2 inch long Button Head Cap Screws for 96 cents. Could not find any shorter than 1/2 inch length but plenty of clearance behind plate. The backplate holes are even the correct diameter and did not require any drilling to open to correct size before using tap to thread holes. Used loctite on tightening. No rattle from loose pop riveted cover. Thanks again as all posts were great. Wayne (Message edited by Slickster on July 03, 2006) |
Firebolteric_ma
| Posted on Monday, July 03, 2006 - 10:02 am: |
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PM me your address and i will send the hardware and directions needed to do this job. i've done about 6 of them for friends so far. real easy to do. hardest part is drilling out old rivets. i bought a bag of the button head screws from fastenal last year as it was cheaper than the kit offered w/ the (4-6) screws? you only need the 10-32 tap.OR i can just email directions to you and you get the correct hardware. "hardware list" is included w/ directions. |
Typeone
| Posted on Monday, July 03, 2006 - 11:59 am: |
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+1 for the American Sport Bike rivet eliminator kit |
Midknyte
| Posted on Monday, July 03, 2006 - 01:17 pm: |
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Thanks 2k4xb12 ! I'm inclined (should I ever get around to it) to use those rivet nuts as it does not require me to [irreverseably] change/alter [thread] the bike... It's nice to be able to change one's mind later about some things... |
Skyguy
| Posted on Monday, July 03, 2006 - 01:25 pm: |
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Just tap the old holes after drilling out the rivets. So easy it is silly. This is one thing that does not require rocket science or aftermarket kits. Pull on them man boots! |
Nasty73z
| Posted on Monday, July 03, 2006 - 02:07 pm: |
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What size drill bit to drill them out? |