Author |
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Redster
| Posted on Friday, May 19, 2006 - 02:27 am: |
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I just did my 1G service.Changed over to full synthetic,got the TPS done at the dealership.I adjusted the clutch so that it has 1/16-1/8 play.It seems that the gear shifting is a bit chunky,clack!Clack!What causes this and any remedy for this? Also My clutch seem to be engaging at the last 1/4 of the lever's travel.How can I adjust it so that it will engage either half or the last third of it's travel? Would changing over to a CRG lever help me adjust the engagement travel? Redster |
Lovematt
| Posted on Friday, May 19, 2006 - 06:35 am: |
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The clutch engaging at the last 1/4 or 1/3 of the lever engagement is about right. I would recheck the clutch adjustment (inside the primary case) as opposed to just the clutch cable. Check the service manual but you need to loosen the cable a lot (so the lever is all floppy), then adjust the primary chain tension (while you are in there), then adjust the clutch mechanism, and finally adjust the clutch cable to about the play you have now. Once this is done, it should be like butter. I have the CRG shorties on my bike and really like them. Also have ridden another Buell with the longer levers and they are nice but I prefer the shorties. |
Jackbequick
| Posted on Friday, May 19, 2006 - 08:22 am: |
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When everything was adjusted right on my M2 the bike would start pulling or moving when the clutch lever was about 1/3rd of the way out and was fully engaged at 3/4ths or so. After I added the EasyPull Clutch thingy, the pulling started earlier, like 1/4" or so off the grip and used a little more of the range of travel. Which I really like. From what you are describing, I'd try decreasing the freeplay at the clutch lever a little if you think things are right inside the primary. You do that by increasing the length of the cable sheath at the adjuster in the middle of the sheath. Try maybe a 1/4 turn at a time. When it is right on mine if I pull the cable end away from the perch as hard as I can, the cable just comes 1/16" or so away from the perch. That is with the bike well warmed up and having been ridden a while. I travel with 1/2" and 9/16" wrenches in my pocket and do the final adjustment on the clutch on the road. I don't have or know much about the CRG levers. It seems like if you change the lever position to make it closer to the grip, you would lose some of the "pull" on the disengagement. Maybe I don't understand how those work. But I don't think you can give up much or any of the pull distance and still get it working right. Jack (Message edited by jackbequick on May 19, 2006) |
Lovematt
| Posted on Friday, May 19, 2006 - 08:44 am: |
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The main benefit to the CRGs are good quality hardware and the ability to adjust the distance of the lever from the grip on the fly without moving the cable. However if you bring the lever in closer to the grip then you do reduce the amount of cable movement that is possible... |
Buell920
| Posted on Friday, May 19, 2006 - 09:34 am: |
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The point at were the clutch starts pulling is determined by the position of the set screw in the clutch. I like mine right off the grip for good stars. I set mine at a 1/4 turn out from bottom. to get it 1/4 in from full out go to a 1/2 to 2/3 out form bottom. then adjust cable to desired setting with a good amount of play with the cable in it's natural position. make sure there is play in the lever....if not you will have slipage and smoke the plates. |
Redster
| Posted on Friday, May 19, 2006 - 03:29 pm: |
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I adjusted the clutch when I did my 1000mile service.Loosened the clutch cable and adjusted the clutch lever on the clutch plate basket.1/4 turn after turning the screw till it softly bottomed out.I'll re check again it again just to make sure.AS far as I can feel there is no clutch slip.How do you know anyway if your clutch is slipping? |
Buell920
| Posted on Friday, May 19, 2006 - 06:04 pm: |
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you'll know with out a doubt! when you hit the gas and there is a torq loss and the motor seems to go but the bike don't go. |
Redster
| Posted on Friday, May 19, 2006 - 09:07 pm: |
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No clutch slip as my torque is really noticable.Would an off spec primary chain make it not shift smoothly? |
Kowpow225
| Posted on Saturday, May 20, 2006 - 09:56 am: |
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Bingo redster! Your primary needs loosened up. |
Redster
| Posted on Saturday, May 20, 2006 - 04:45 pm: |
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You mean my primary chain is too tight or loose? |
Jackbequick
| Posted on Saturday, May 20, 2006 - 07:23 pm: |
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I think he meant too tight, that was my experience. The shifting seems best when you do all three adjustments in order. First, the primary chain (I use 3/4" on the tight spot). Then back off the lever freeplay adjuster (make the lever floppy) and adjust the clutch adjusting screw (CW 2-3 turns to back it off, CCW just to a touch, then CW or or backed off 1/8th turn). Finally, set the lever freeplay until pulling as hard as you can on the cable sheath where it enters the perch only opens a 1/16" or so gap. This adjustment will change a little warm, I take the wrenches with me adjust it along the road or re-do it when I return home from a ride. If you get too much gear clash (the classic, moderately loud clunk is okay) when engaging low from neutral at a stop, try taking another 1/8th or 1/4 turn on the freeplay adjuster. Jack |
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