| Author | Message | ||
     Dongalonga |
I have an 03 XB9SL and I weigh about 155. I took into account that the lightning low is supposed to have the following stock setting as opposed to the regular lightning: Front- PL 5.5(low) 6(reg), Com 1.75(low) 1.5(reg), Reb 1.5(low) 1.625(reg) Rear- PL 2(low) 3(reg), Com 2.5(low) 2(reg), Reb 1.25(low) 1.5(reg) Here are the settings I came up with taking the stock setting differences into consideration and converting the aggresive settings to the Lightning Low: Front- PL/5, C/2, R/1.5 Rear- PL/2, C/2, R/1 I just want to know if I am on the right track... | ||
| Buellgirlie |
is this for street or track or racing? D | ||
| Dongalonga |
aggressive street | ||
| Diablobrian |
How about these as a start point?  Also know an the Higbee (for Shawn Higbee) settings. | ||
| Dongalonga |
yeah i used those like i said as a point to skew my numbers from.....the low lightning has slightly different settings due to the different suspension setup from the factory. i did just get back from a ride with the new settings and my chicken stripes are almost gone....the only reason they are still there is because i nam waiting on my new front tire as my current one is worn out. | ||
| Slaughter |
I ALWAYS recommend setting preload by DIRECT MEASUREMENT (you can get more conistent settings by direct measurement): 35mm sag in front, 25-30 in the rear. If you CAN'T set up to those numbers, you need different springs. (if you are lighter than about 150lb or heavier than about 250) Those damping settings are about right for starting points. | ||
| Dongalonga |
i definatelt agree with the direct measurement method and plan on doing this soon. there is another member on the boards his sn is cruisin and i will prob be riding with him this year so maybe we can take some time to set up the preload via direct measurement. thanks for the advice i am glad to know i am on the right track!! | ||
| Skully |
Steve, Are those sag settings what you recommend for the street of the track or both? Thanks, Keith | ||
| Diablobrian |
I agree Slaughter, if you have the skills to set it properly, by all means do so! A lot of people lack the skills, or interest in learning them if the charts will get them "close enough". | ||
| Glitch |
I've used the chart that Buell uses, and the chart above, but nothing worked for me as well as direct measurement. | ||
| Aeroe |
Noob question...what is direct measurement? | ||
| M1combat |
Direct measurement is setting sag based on a measuring tape vs. what someone recommends might be fairly close to something that might be somewhat useful in a round about sort of way... | ||
| M1combat |
Try here... http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0006_sag/ | ||
| Glitch |
Great link M1, that's the article I used. It works great, and I've not had to tweek the settings either. Where and how we ride suspension set-up is very important, especially with these querky, under-powered bikes we ride  | ||
| M1combat |
Exactly . Keep in mind though... You need to ride consistently to setup your suspension. You can't ride while hanging off one time and perceive a problem, fix it, then test while not hanging off... It doesn't work that way. | ||
| Buellgirlie |
i started with "higbee's personal favorite", then measured sag front and rear, and after riding on the track, ended up increasing rebound 1/2 turn front and rear from that. i'm happy with that for now. D | ||
| Slaughter |
Skully, Those sag settings in my terribly poor experience work for both street and track. I've found on the street, it's easier to "soften" the ride by reducing compression damping on both front and rear just a little bit. My problem is being an old fart and not learning new things (or remembering them). Changing suspension settings made the bike comfy but it handled totally different - and I found it easier to just put up with a "harsher" ride on the street and not be making suspension changes. Now the bike is track only for the past couple years - so it's not a problem anymore |
