| Author | Message | ||
     Sik_s |
I know everyone says that 3/4" is the best for the amount of primary chain freeplay. But how the frig do you measure it. I turned the rear wheel and the chain moved, and when I push up on the chain it is not hitting the walls of the primary cover. But when I push up with my finger, the chain disappears above the inspection window preventing me from getting any resemblance of an accurate measurement. I just put the adjuster nut back to where it was before I took the cover off. Will this be fine? | ||
| Sik_s |
Seems like the primary shoe design was made poorly. It shouldn't have been installed on the case. If it wasn't installed where it is, you could get a 100% accurate measurement with the cover off. | ||
| Buellistic |
Sik_s: The "DESIGN" is just fine !!! The BEST WAY to find the "TIGHT SPOT" is to turn the CHAIN TENSION ADJUSTED a little at a time while turning the rear wheel in "5th GEAR" with the sparkplugs(2ea) removed until found ... "i" use a ALLEN WRENCH to pull the PRIMARY CHAIN up to get the 3/4 inch upward movement ... WILL THIS "INFORMATION" help ??? In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Sik_s |
I guess I'm just retarded then. I saw the chain fine with the primary cover off. Unfortunately you can only adjust the chain with the cover on (The primary shoe is attached to the cover). So looking through the tiny inspection window I can see the chain, and then when I press up on it, it is hiding behind the primary cover. I can only guess right now that is is between 1/2" and 3/4". Am I missing something? Do I need to pull the primary cover back off, drain the fluid and pull up on the chain then to find the tight spot, and then guess with how much it is deflecting through the inspection window after I put everything back on? (I pulled the plugs/wires off earlier and had it on the rear stand) (Message edited by sik_s on April 23, 2006) | ||
| Kevinfromwebb |
Sik, I was thinking the chain slack was between 3/8 and 1/2 of an inch... Check the manual, I checked mine easily... If you can't see the chain it's probably too loose. I checked mine with a small scale held to the bottom edge of the chain, on the outside of the inspection window of course... Hope that helped... Kevin | ||
| Sik_s |
Kevin, you are right that is what the SM calls for, I was going to adjust as per what everyone else was having luck with which is 3/4" or so I have been told. The chain sits kind of in the middle of the inspection window. But I pulled out a 11/16" socket (as a ruler for 3/4"  ) and it looks a little less than that, but I can't tell for sure, since I don't have x-ray vision and can't see through the primary cover  . Anyways after putting it all together, I took it for a spin, and it does shifter better than before, so I guess everything is good. | ||
| Buellistic |
Kevinfromwebb: The Factory Motors Manual is "WRONG" IMHO and has been for years ... Adjust PRIMARY CHAIN to 3/4 inch on the tight spot, cold, "PERIOD" !!! Sik_s: You are making a "MOUNTAIN out of a MOLE HILL" !!! You do this thru the inspection cover ... FEEL FREE to call me(cell (813)928-4043) and we can get this problem completely discusted ... This is a very easy thing to do !!! In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Sik_s |
I don't have the time to pull all that stuff back out again tonight. I appreciate the help though. I'm going to take it for another ride tomorrow, and if it feels the same as it did this afternoon, then I am going to call it good. | ||
| Whodom |
Sik_s, One other thing about measuring the slack in the chain: push the chain down, THEN push the chain up. The measurement is the total movement of the chain from bottom to top (or vice-versa). If you just push up and adjust it based on that, you'll make it too loose. I had to read the manual about 3 times before I figured out that's what they were saying. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Sik_s - Your measuring device is right there, the height of the sideplates on the chain is 3/8". Find the tight spot. Look in with the inspection cover removed, raise your head until the chain is even with the top of the inspection hole, then push up hard with your finger tip. If it does not go out of sight, it is too tight. You want it to stop just as it goes out of sight. If you take a clean rag and some oil solvent like parts cleaner or acetone and wipe the oil off the sideplate, you can put a mark on it with a permanent marker. That mark will last for a long time and can be used to speed up future checks. Getting the primary chain adjustment right on a Buell (and the clutch adjuster screw, and the lever freeplay) can be the source of a lot of happiness in eliminating noises and better shifting! Jack | ||
| Sik_s |
Thanks for the help, it is much appreciated. | ||
| M1combat |
Can someone tell me WHY the manual is wrong? If the effing thing is too loose, the bike WON'T SHIFT RIGHT! | ||
| Buellistic |
M1combat: IMHO it is WRONG and has always been WRONG ... The PROOF OF THE PUDDING is in removeing you PRIMARY COVER and looking at the PLASTIC(as in PICTURES in other posts) on the SHOE ASM. ... If the chain has worn into this PLASTIC the CHAIN has been adjusted TOO TIGHT !!! We all ride our BUELLS hard and the SPECS. are from KR/XR SPECS. ... IT IS YOUR BUELL, BELIEVE AND DO YOUR THING !!! As for "IT WON'T SHIFT" only means you have a LAZY FOOT or you do not have you SHIFT LINKAGE set up for you ... In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| M1combat |
Ummm... Isn't that there shoe supposed to be worn into? Isn't that it's entire goal in life? Isn't it a consumable part just like a tire? Have you ever tried finding neutral on an XB whose primary is too loose or whose primary fluid level is too low? Have you ever experienced the false neutrals between first and second on an XB who's primary fluid level is too high? I don't mind going through primary shoes if it means my bike shifts ok. I don't have a lazy foot, and my shift linkage seems to be useable to me. I have to admit that I've never specifically TRIED setting my primary chain tension to 3/4" but I've had it too loose before (which as I recall occurs long before you have 3/4" play) and it doesn't shift well. Isn't metal supposed to wear into plastic? If they didn't want the chain wearing into the shoe shouldn't they have used a plastic chain and a metal shoe ? I'm all for correct service manuals... trust me. I don't mean to put you on the spot but I'll need something other than trading shifting for plastic if I'm going to believe that the service manual is wrong and I should use the Lafayette spec tension for my primary  . | ||
| Buellistic |
M1combat: IT IS TO KEEP VERY, VERY LIGHT TENSION ON THE CHAIN !!! The next time "i" pull my PRIMARY COVER off pictures will be taken ... It will show you what mine looks like and "i" will tell you the exact millage on the SHOE ASM. ... WHY WOULD ANYONE OVER FILL THE TRANSMISSION ??? If your CLUTCH CABLE is not ajusted correctly you will play hell getting it into neutral with the engine running ... If you come to DAYTONA 2007, "i" will teach you how to adjust the CLUTCH CABLE as it is not really like what it says in the FACTORY MOTORS MANUAL, "BUT" from adjusting a lot of CLUTCH'S ... ALWAYS REMEMBER, IT IS "YOUR BUELL" TO DO WITH AS YOU CHOSE !!! "YOU CAN LEAD A HORSE TO WATER, "BUT" YOU CAN NOT MAKE THE HORSE DRINK !!! THIS IS NOT MY SPECS., "BUT" FROM THE SPEC. SHEETS OF THE KR/XR AS "i" SAID !!! In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| M1combat |
So spell it out to me . That's what I'm waiting for Lafayette... I'm asking "Why is the manual wrong". I'm not hearing an answer. I've always adjusted my primary and my clutch both by the book AND at the same time (always) and it has always shifted perfectly once I realized exactly how much fluid the thing needed and it was adjusted correctly, or... "by the book"... seems how there is some bit of disagreement on exactly what "correctly" is. What is the benefit to running the cable at 3/4" slack on the TIGHT spot? What is the drawback to running the tension listed in the manual? How do you properly adjust the clutch? I'll probably make it to Daytona 2007 but I'd rather have a properly adjusted clutch before then... | ||
| Buellistic |
M1combat: Per your profile: "You win a few and you lose a few" Well "i" am just going to take a loss with you as "i" am tired of typing ... When you get 89K on you XB12R, "i" will get back to you !!! In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Opto |
I agree with M1 and had no probs with my Sportster or Buell by going by the book. I don't think the book is wrong, but I've been wrong before. I had the primary off the Sportster and all looked OK. I'm sticking to the book because it feels right (the primary feels happy to me). | ||
| Jackbequick |
The difference between the 3/4" measurement and the high end of the by the book "field" measurement is only 1/4". That difference is easily lost in the variables of tight spot location, individual feel, and how firmly you push up on the chain. I adjusted mine by the book. I thought. The transmission was making clunking noises at slow speeds and as I came to a stop. I studied the KV, check it several times and thought I was in the ballpark on the adjustment. I pulled the primary cover, inspected the transmission and shifter parts (in place). I noticed the top run on the chain had been lightly slapping the inside of the primary case. I put it all back together adjusting it again. The noise was still there. A guy from the local bike shop happened to drop by to pick up a part so I asked him about it. He stuck his finger in pushed up, and said it was way to loose. I asked him how hard he pushes up. He said "'til it hurts". I did the adjustment again, pushing up firmly and setting it at 3/8" upward deflection. All the noises went away. I'm thinking the issues here have a lot to do with who and how the measurement is made. And I think that the "extra" 1/4" in the 3/4" recommendation is on the looser side but okay. It probably solves more problems than it creates. Jack | ||
| Sik_s |
^ This is the exact reason the primary shoe location is crappy, it shouldn't be on the cover. You should be able to adjust it to 100% accuracy with the cover off, and check it through the inspection cover also. Much better design IMHO. |
