| Author | Message | ||
     Shazam |
Joplin Missouri has a huge F.A.G. Bearing plant that mfg's product, not just distributes...do not know where corporate headquarters is... Also I believe the 6203-rs is probably the correct one as it is much more common, but I can't check mine this evening due to proximity problems....If someone does post the number I can cross reference them for SKF,torrington, or fafnir.... XB9, are you noticing anything wrong with your Idler bearing? or just fishing for info...what were they asking for the Idler assembly $$$ ? | ||
| Roc |
Ha - ha, in my best Nelson Muntz, - their company is called FAG! For the record my S1 front wheel bearings, labled E6204 2RS HBC, were made in China on 9-23-02. | ||
| Xb9 |
Shaz, No problems, but they do recommend replacing at 15K with the belt. The pully is like new, just want to replace the bearing with the belt to maintain reliability per recommended change out. I think the pully/bearing assembly lists for around $95 | ||
| Bud |
XB9, Do you have a dyno sheet off your bike with modified muffler ?? Because Bikehospital here in holland has done some testing with different mufflers, With a blow through muffler the dip at 4000 rpm is almost gone but the max torc is a lot lower ( I don’t recall the make off the muffler ) gr, bud | ||
| Deadmeat |
6005-2RSH or 6005-2RSH/C3 front 6006-2RS1 or 6006-2RS1/C3 rear it's a "upgrade" from 2RSJEM. the C3 have a little more play and it was the preferd one from SKF OBS.. this are the swedish numbers and they sometimes change for other countries. | ||
| Cro13 |
A little help please! Yesterday during a routine bike check I found that my oil was very thin and milky in color. Water/Condensation? My question is why? I replaced the oil and the filter but should I do anything else? If this helps: Last oil change 12/2/02 at 1802 miles (at the dealership) It now has 1968 miles I ride to work every day about 20- 30 minutes round trip The temp. here in Bristol, PA. Has been about 18 – 20 degrees I last checked the oil two weeks ago and didn’t notice any problem, but I might have just missed it. Any help would be appreciated, Cro13 Carter Smith 03 XB9R | ||
| Mikej |
Could just be moisture in the air. In colder weather the oil has a harder time warming up enough to burn or evaporate off the condensation. The relatively shorter trips may not be enough. Some people just change their oil more frequently in the winter, and some go to the slightly thinner oil as well. What oil is in your bike now? Regular oil, synthetic, 20w50, 10w40, other? | ||
| Mikej |
ps, your bike looks totally huge in your profile pic.   | ||
| Cro13 |
Mikej, I'm just running H-D 20w50. I didn't get your joke till I looked at my profile, what can I say I'm a little guy. Is this going to hurt my bike? Is it normal to change the oil every 150 - 200 miles in the winter? I never had this happen to my S3 Thanks for the Info. Carter | ||
| Mikej |
Wait to hear from someone with expertise in this area, but when I ride in temps below freezing on a regular basis (or when I plan to be) I go to something lighter than 20W50. The two short rides I did recently when it was between 2°F-14°F I didn't worry about it and just let the bikes warm up a bit longer for the less than 20 mile rides. Winter riding is harsher due to temps, and debris in the air (salts if you have them there), so more frequent changes are somewhat normal. The XB's are cooled a little better than your S3 was so this may lead to some of the situation you find. To any oil experts out there, comments????? | ||
| Roc |
Take a look in your Xb manual, page 61. They list a 10W40 for a "lowest ambient temperature" of below 40 degrees. With temperatures as low as you are out in I think a lower viscosity would probably be better for your engine. That being said I don't think it caused the condition you are seeeing. I think you two are both right and it is water from condensation/combustion. I agree with Mikej's comment that the Xb's are cooled much better than the tube frames, seems like this could require a longer ride to evaporate the water from you oil and account for the fact that you did not notice this in your S3. From my automotive service text book, "It takes 10 to 15 minutes for the cylinder walls to warm to the point where evaporation begins to take place." Also, "When possible, oil temperature should be kept below 220 degrees F. The cooling system temperature required for water vaporize out of oil is 185-195 degrees F. The ideal cooling system temperature for oil is therefore about 195 degrees F." That being said our bikes are not water cooled so the below note, from the same book is more applicable, "Oil temperature is usually 10 degrees to 25 degrees hotter than coolant temperature. Fuel and moisture are effectively removed at oil temperatrues of between 215 degrees F and 220 degrees F." Also from the book, "oil oxidizes at temperatures in excess of 250 degrees F, becoming thicker and forming varnish deposites." So it would seem that the Xb's oil cooling system should try to keep the oil between 220 and 250 degrees. I don't yet have a service manual and I don't know if a temperature activated valve is used with the oil cooler - seems like a good idea. I think you should make it a point to ride it for longer durration once a week or so and see if it doesn't evaporate the water. Also maybe look into the oil cooler, is it heat activated or always on? Maybe you are unable to get your engine hot enough to evaporate the water. | ||
| Roc |
The book is Automotive Service by Tim Gilles. I bought it for a class and it has proved to be a great reference for me. | ||
| Mikej |
that book | ||
| Roc |
Yep. | ||
| Xb9 |
Bud, no dyno sheets, I'm sitting in 2 feet of snow, so it'll be awhile before I even get it out for a spin. | ||
| Xb9 |
Cro13, There is no thermostatic control on the oil flow through the oil cooler, but you can block it off with tape (or even some type of insulating material!) In those temperatures, you do not want cold air flowing through the cooler. It's working against trying to get the oil to a decent temperature. Try putting your hand on the swingarm after your ride, you'll see that it may not even be at room temperature. The swingarm acts as a big heat sink to aid in cooling the oil. Actually, blocking off the air flow to the oil cooler may not be enough to get the oil temp up to where it needs to be. And you really need to be using a 10w40 weight oil. You need the proper viscosity at cold temperature to protect your engine. | ||
| Xb9 |
Oh, and I thought I was addicted to riding my XB, but I draw the line at about 40 degrees. I gotta ask if you are OK? 18-20 degrees?? LOL! | ||
| Ar15ls1 |
Synthetic oil starts to oxidize at 250. Fossil or conventional oil starts to oxidize at 180-190. Once the oil reaches these temps. , there lifespan starts to drop at a lot faster rate. This is the number 1 reason that I use synthetic(Mobil 1) in my air cooled xb9r. | ||
| Chainsaw |
The fan on an XB will run when key on: the engine temp hits 428 degrees F fan turns off at 356 F Key off: the engine temp hits 338 F fan turns off at 302 F Don't know how much temp difference between the engine and the oil, but I would guess if you ride the XB long enough to have the fan kick on, you should be evaporating the water in the oil. XB9:I draw the line at 20 degrees (and no freezing precipitation! When it's colder than that, well, it ain't like my truck is broke! If you ride long enough the ass-cooking exhaust system will start to keep you warm. | ||
| Chainsaw |
Recall Question: I'm scheduled to get my sidestand replaced this Saturday. The dealership isn't sure if they have the replacement part in stock, but they want to get the bike in to "start the process". If I take the bike in, are they legally obligated to keep the bike until the recall part comes in? In other words, if I take it in, can they refuse to give it back for weeks or months while waiting for the part to come in? ...not that I'm paranoid, but I'm sure THEY are out to get me...who ever THEY are ChainSaw | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Pat, WHY aren't they sure IF the parts are in stock? WHY didn't you ask them to look it up on the computer and physically look for it. WHY didn't you ask them HOW LONG it would take to replace the puppy? They should be able to replace it while you there. IF they give you the run around AFTER you ask those questions, I'd find another stealership, otherwise your bike could be held hostage for a few days to months. You've been warned, -JW:>  | ||
| Spiderman |
Don't take it in till they have the part in stock. Once they have it they will have to keep it so Buell and/or that dealer isn't held responsible for anything that happens to you with the old sidestand on. If they say there "Not sure" that the part is in, tell them that the recall stand has a "R" stamped into the foot of the stand. Hope this helps and good luck | ||
| Roc |
AR15lS1 After reading your post I looked at my book again. If any moderator is so inclined they could remove the second to last paragraph of my last post in this section. It makes an assumption that is not correct. Anyway to quote the book again, "Oil oxidizes at temperatures in excess of 250 degrees F. The oxidation rate of oil actually doubles with every 20 degree F rise in temperature above 140 degrees F until about 800 degrees F when carbon forms. Anti-oxidants combat the effects of heat on oil. If the oxidation inhibitor becomes depleted, the oil becomes thicker and thicker. Detergents make the varnish oil-soluble so that they remain suspended in oil." "When possible, oil temperature should be kept below 220 degrees F." "Fuel and moisture are effectively removed at oil temperatures of between 215 degrees F and 220 degrees F." | ||
| Ar15ls1 |
Roc, I can agree with that. The information that I received was from a Mobil sponsored oil analysis class that I went to. Everything that you stated in your paragraph was true. The engineers just said that fossil oil started to oxidize at 180 instead of 140, but I will base my oil changing on what you said to be safe. The engineers also said that there was nothing wrong with Royal Purple, Amsol, or Redline oil. That is if you are using it for racing purposes only. They said that all of these companies buy their basestocks directly from Mobil, but put their own special additives in the oil. For every additive that you put in you have to remove another. This is what separates Mobil from the rest of the Hi-po synthetics. Mobil designs its oil on everyday driving, where the rest design their s on racing only. Mobils oil hold up better in everyday use. But then again Formula 1,Cart,Nascar all use mobil one! | ||
| Xb9 |
hmmm, Royal Purple has a "SAE" line of oils for non racing applications, and they have a full synthetic line for racing applications. Sounds to me the Mobil Engineers were adding a little "sales pitch" in there to separate themselves form the competition! IMHO. All the Brands they mentioned are excellent oils. Period. Pick your favorite | ||
| Blake |
XB9, I'm not so sure. Ever read about how some of those "other" lubricant vendors got their start? Most often, some non engineer dude(s) playing with synthetic base oil and concocting his/their own formula maybe later with the help of a chemist. Not very confidence inspiring. Mobil on the other hand... No worries. | ||
| Blake |
Here's an interesting anecdote to add to the oil discussion... Whenever I fly American out of Greg County (local Kilgore airport) I invariably notice the nacelle on the Saab 340 turbo prop and the list of lubricants. It includes specific listings of applicable Exxon, Mobil (now Exxon/Mobil), Castrol, and Shell lubricants. There is absolutely no mention of Amsoil, Red Line, or Royal Purple. | ||
| Hootowl |
Redline, Royal Purple, and Amsoil don't make oil that is certified for use in aircraft. That's not their market. That doesn't mean you shouldn't use them in your car or motorcycle. Most oil companies don't operate their own chemical plants, so they would have to buy their basestocks from someone else anyway. Last I heard (and I work in the petrochemical industry) Mobil doesn't make PAO, they buy it from one of the few companies that do. Just like the retail gasoline business. There's only a few companies that are into refining. The gas stations buy their gas from the closest refinery in most cases, doesn't matter who operates the plant. They mix in the additive package as they fill up the tanker truck, and deliver it to you local neighborhood gas station and call it their own. Notice you never see them advertise that their GAS is better, only their additives. Texaco "System 3", Chevron "with Techtroline!" etc. It's the same with oils. PAO is PAO. | ||
| Chainsaw |
Jim ...WHY aren't they sure IF the parts are in stock? Who knows! Maybe the first cup of coffee hadn't kicked in yet. I even gave them the number from the Service Bulletin. ...WHY didn't you ask them to look it up on the computer and physically look for it. They said they'd call me if there they didn't have it by Saturday, but "we need to get the bike in to start the process anyway" ...WHY didn't you ask them HOW LONG it would take to replace the puppy? They said they could turn it around same day if I brought it in by 9am. Sounds like they are giving me the run-around, that's why I'm asking advise here. I don't think another dealership is an option. I've asked our BRAG club's dealer liason (dealer I didn't get the XB from), he says they wont do recall work on a bike sold at another dealership in town. If I had moved out of state I might have a chance. Bottom line, Saturday morning, if they can't tell me they have the part in hand, they wont see my bike. Thanks! | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Pat, Sounds like a typical Buell dealership (from my experence). You nailed it on the head dude. Don't leave your bike until the part is in their hands. S'later, -JW:> |
