| Author | Message | ||
     Sik_s |
Where is this? I got the VDSTS to work by buying a 3rd adapter(keyspan), but I can't find this in the service manual. Can anyone help? | ||
| Gowindward |
 This may be what you are looking for??? | ||
| Sik_s |
messing with the idle adjuster I am able to get up to 3.7 volts, on the throttle, but I cannot get above that. I "adjusted the "throttle cable barrel adjuster" and the "idle control cable barrel adjuster" and also the little white wheel under and to the left of the start switch, and I also moved the allen bolt on the back side of the module with the kill switch on it. It has like an AD imprint next to it, and is behind the front brake lever. Anyways, now the starter just clicks and the bike won't even start. Wish the instructions were idiot proof. (Message edited by sik_s on March 09, 2006) | ||
| Sik_s |
Also I can get the "throttle Positon" over about 80 degrees, or the "throttle %" over about 93% | ||
| Sik_s |
Should I just take a match to my bike at this point? | ||
| Gowindward |
A good idiot can out wit 10 great idiot proofers with one hand tied behind his back.  Did you back off the idle adjustment and let the butterfly in the throttle body close before zeroing the TPS? | ||
| Dbird29 |
Give it to me for $5.  | ||
| Cruisin |
I believe the throttle % never goes to 100 - nothing to worry about. Did you back the idle adjuster all the way out until it didn't make contact, then back it out another half turn, reset the TPS, then tightened it up until the RPMS are at 1050? | ||
| Gowindward |
Resetting the TPS using VDSTS SW by Al Lighton, American Sport Bike This document explains in detail how to use the VDSTS Software to reset the TPS on a Buell. It is not a comprehensive manual for VDSTS, and it assumes that you have successfully installed the SW and are capable of communicating with the ECM. One note first about connectivity. If you can not communicate with the ECM, contact Technoresearch for assistance. I’d say that 80% of the cases where connectivity was not happening was when someone was using a substandard USB to RS232 adapter. The Radio Shack unit will not work, and some others won’t either. But the Keyspan will, as will many other reputable units. In other cases, connectivity didn’t work because of COM port conflicts, or in some cases, a defective cable. First thing to understand is that there are two communication modes for the ECM, the normal diagnostics mode, and the active test mode. Not sure if Buell calls it this, but the semantics aren't all that important. What is important is that you have to be in Active Test mode to reset things like the AFV, TPS, Clear DTC's etc, and you have to be in Diagnostics mode to do the normal monitoring stuff (i.e., monitoring tach, throttle position, temperatures, etc). The Active Test mode is entered by pushing the "button" (the icon at the top of the screen) that looks like a screwdriver. The Diagnostics mode has a few different presentations, Gauges, strip chart, or bar graph. But once you've selected the correct diagnostics mode, you still have to connect to the ECM. There is a button at the top for connecting (an icon that looks the right side of a desktop computer with a black line representing the cable coming out of it). If the ignition key and run switch are in the run position, you click that connect icon and the ECM will connect and start communicating. Connection status is displayed at the bottom of the screen. Go to Diagnostic mode, go to the bar graph display, and configure three of the bar graphs to display Throttle Position, Throttle (Volt), and Throttle (%). Do this by clicking the Channels/Mode "Ch" icon button at the top of the screen and assigning three of the bar graphs to these functions. Connect with the ECM, and you should be able to see the throttle position responding to you opening and closing the throttle. Some notes about what you are seeing. Throttle (volt) is an absolute reading. There is a Throttle Position Sensor potentiometer (pot) on the end of the throttle “butterfly” shaft, and the ECM is reading a voltage that varies depending upon the position of that pot. Depending upon how the shaft is attached to the pot, and the calibration of the pot itself, every throttle body will display a slightly different voltage when the butterfly is at any given position. This is why a TPS reset is mandatory any time the throttle body or Throttle Position Sensor is removed or changed. Throttle position and Throttle (%) are positions relative to the zero point for the throttle butterfly. The purpose of a TPS reset is to tell the ECM what voltage is at the pot when the butterfly is completely closed (i.e., 0% open). The ECM is then capable of calculating the exact throttle position based on the offset voltage from the absolute voltage reading that it read when the butterfly was fully closed. Throttle position is the measure of the angle (degrees) that the throttle butterfly open between 0 and 85. The first step of performing a TPS reset is to back the throttle stop screw off until it no longer is touching the stop on the butterfly shaft. The easiest way to check if the throttle stop is no longer engaged is to turn the throttle grip to zero and force it there gently. If when you start to open it, you can feel it gently sticking, this means that the butterfly is wedging in the throttle body and you have achieved absolute closure. Activate the VDSTS SW, and put it in bar graph diagnostics mode. With the throttle screw backed off completely, force the throttle closed so that it gently sticks as described above. Note the Throttle (volt) value each time. It should be within .01 volts each time you do this. If not, there is something wrong with the throttle body or Throttle Position Sensor. Click on the Active Test Mode. You will see a button that performs the TPS reset function. Before you actually reset your TPS to zero, I recommend that you perform a test of the TPS reset procedure in order to confirm that the TPS reset is working properly. This is optional but may save some headaches if things don’t seem to be working right later. Hold the throttle in the 1/3 open position, and then execute a TPS reset in the Active test mode with it held steady there. The throttle should be held steady while the duration count decrements. Once you get a PASSED message, go back to Diagnostic mode, put it in bar graph mode as per above, and slowly open the throttle. If the Throttle Position bar graph remains stationary until you cross the threshold position that you held the throttle at (i.e., 1/3 throttle) and only then starts climbing, THEN you know that both communication modes are working correctly and that you have successfully set the TPS. If that worked correctly, shut the throttle and gently force it closed at the throttle grip. Execute the TPS reset, and wait for the PASSED message to display. Go back to Diagnostics/Bar graph display mode. Slowly turn the throttle stop screw up until you get a Throttle Position Reading of 5.1. Start the engine, let it warm up to an indicated temperature of 320F, and adjust the idle to 1050 and you're done. It is EXTREMELY important that the throttle plate is fully closed when the TPS is performed. Even slightly open will make the bike run poorly. The throttle butterfly must be made to gently stick in the closed position when the TPS is reset or you will not get proper engine operation. | ||
| Sik_s |
I have Al's writeup saved on my desktop. I didn't back out the idle adjustement before I did the TPS reset. I just opened the throttle 3 times and released thinking that would close the butterfly. Apparently I skipped that paragraph and went to the TPS test reset at 1/3 thottle, which worked fine. I can adjust the "idle adjuster" by the intake scoop back out, but now the bike won't start because I messed with the idle and throttle cable adjuster barrels and I think I turned that little white dial under the start switch and the allen bolt on the back with the AD stamp on it. Basically I touched everything.  | ||
| Sik_s |
I have to go to work, I guess I will try "messing with it" at lunch if I can get home. | ||
| Sik_s |
Ok, so how does one do the AFV reset? Just hit the button on the VDSTS and it's done? | ||
| Sik_s |
I backed off the "idle adjuster" knob all the way, reset the TPS, turned knob back to get 5.1 degrees. Tried starting the bike....click, click, click. Is my battery fried? I'm lost. | ||
| Gowindward |
Put a screw driver to the battery cable connections and tighten them up. You might also check battery voltage. | ||
| Sik_s |
The VDSTS was reading 11.3 volts. I think that is a little low, and I'm guessing the amps aren't there? As far as I know the battery came with the bike, it is a HD battery. If I need a new battery which is the best to get? I saw another post where someone got one at Wal*Mart, are they worth a s*? I took the battery out and put it on the battery tender plus. Hopefully it will power it up and I can put it back in tomorrow and get everything working good...the drama continues.  (Message edited by sik_s on March 09, 2006) | ||
| Sik_s |
Anyone know what voltage and amperage I should be getting on the battery? | ||
| Bake |
Voltage alone isn't a very good indicator, what you need is a load check. Any garage should be able to do one and it only takes 1 minute. | ||
| Sik_s |
I think autozone has a machine for that, if after charging the battery all night I get the same result with the bike, I will take it there, thanks for the good idea. Still anyone know how many amps/volts I should be reading? I have the HD factory battery p/n:65498-00. How much do one of these things run, or are there better batteries out there. Any help idiot proofing me is appreciated. | ||
| Bake |
There is a battery thread on the XB board right now, just a few below you. | ||
| Sik_s |
I found another post that says 12.8 Volts is max charge, and the battery is capable of doing 200 cca, and up to 330 cca. I'll stick it back in the bike tomorrow and if it doesn't work, I'll take it to autozone, and if they give me the thumbs down, then I guess I will go to HD and buy a v-rod battery (same p/n). | ||
| Sik_s |
Hopefully I have everything under control, it took awhile to get the battery fully charged up, and I think I might even know what I am doing now. I'll test it tomorrow and see what happens.  | ||
| Sik_s |
Ok back to the other thing, what needs to be done to reset the AFV? Anybody, Bueller, Bueller? | ||
| Tork |
Yes, with the VDSTS, the AFV reset is just pressing the onscreen button. No setup or adjustments as with the TPS. Click!! | ||
| Sik_s |
Thanks for clarifying that Tork, I couldn't find a write up anywhere, and thought I was missing something. Also Thanks, Gowindward, Cruisin and Bake. Also Dbird29 I am still awaiting the check...I assume it is in the mail?  Anyhow, I have everything up and going, the battery was low on juice so I charged it overnight and what do you know everything works fine again. Yay!  | ||
| Tork |
Also, just as a heads up... I've had some frustrating problems sometimes getting the VDSTS software to "talk" with the ECM correctly. It would read the ECM version correctly, so it was connecting, but wouldn't function right when trying to sync with the ECM for reading realtime stats. A call to Technoresearch cured the problem. Simply go to the directory folder on your hard drive where the software was installed and delete the sub directory folder that VDSTS created for your bike. The data sometimes gets corrupted and it will create a new one and you'll be good to go. | ||
| Bucknut |
Does anyone know if I have to disconnect my Pro Commander before I reset my TPS using the above method? | ||
| Xb9 |
THe PCIII has nothing to do with the TPS calibration | ||
| Dbird29 |
Sik_s, I emailed you the money. Did you get it? DBird  | ||
| Sik_s |
Dbird29, Yeah I received it, but it was only printed on one side!? |
