| Author | Message | ||
     Fresnobuell |
Hey guys. Please forgive what may be a "duh" question to alot of you. I took my 9X into the dealership for the 1K service and I can swear the clutch lever has moved outward. I bought a CRG adjustable clutch lever because my hands are on the small side, so I am pretty sensitive/aware to the clutch lever span and it definitely seems larger than when I took it into the dealer. And the lever is on the same position as when I took the bike in. I know they do a clutch adjustment, but I can't see how it is possible for the lever to move (save the adjustability of the CRG lever). Am I crazy? If I had the stock lever is it physically possible for it to be adjusted outward? also the clutch now engages towards the middle of the lever movement instead of close to the grip as it was before the HD did their "magic." Thanks for your help before i call the dealership about this matter. | ||
| M1combat |
I have a CRG lever too (just for the record I guess...). Anyway... After I adjust my clutch it tends to move the engagement further to the beginning of the travel. As a matter of fact, If done correctly and you stack your tolerances in the right direction, you can get it to start to disengage just about immediately as you start pulling the lever. That's the way I like it. Just an FYI... If you leave the CRG lever in the sun, the red adjustment lever will fade. The gold doesn't (if you have the gold one). | ||
| Grlryder |
I dont have the CRG levers, but did have the same experience with the clutch lever after my bike's first service. It seemed as though it was a pretty dramatic move outwards. Not sure why they moved it, but figured it had something to do with original specs, blah blah blah. Oh well, I had the tools so quickly moved it back to where its comfy. I will be sure to ask them at next service not to move it as its like that because that's the way I want it  | ||
| Jackbequick |
Check the freeplay (gap) where the clutch lever contacts the perch when fully released. That should should open to a gap of 1/8" or so with light pressure on the lever (per the SM). That gap is adjusted by shortening or lengthening the cable sheath with the adjuster that is about mid cable (by the downtube on an M2). Adjustment sequence is to adjust the primary chain, then the adjustment screw on the clutch, and finally the freeplay gap. And it seems hard to get the clutch feel and shifting right without all three adjustments being right. If the free play gap is too big (i.e., cable sheath too short) the clutch will not fully disengage when the lever is pulled. Gears will clash badly when engaged from a stop and bike might pull a little with clutch held in. With too little gap (i.e., cable sheath too long) it pulls on the throwout bearing and is bad for it. With way, way too little gap, the clutch may slip and the throwout bearing is fully loaded all the time (very bad). This is like riding with the clutch lever pulled in a little. So if your freeplay gap seems to be too little, shortening the cable sheath a little can move the engagement back towards the grip some. With an Easy Pull fitted, and everything adjusted right, my M2 starts pulling with the lever 1/4-3/8" or so off the bar. The engagement span with the Easy Pull is wider than it was without and the clutch is not fully engaged until lever is 3/4ths of the way out or more. Easy Pull - I like it very much and have not had any problems with installing or using it. Others here found it exactly the opposite. Full details are in the KV. Jack | ||
| Fresnobuell |
thanks for the detailed post, jack....i really liked the way it was setup before it went into the dealership. I wish I knew they would be changing this so I could have told them to leave it alone. I hope I can get it back to where i like it (clutch engaging close to the grip). I still don't see how the lever can physically be moved outward--seems like the anchor or pivot point of the lever is fixed. I can see how the clutch engagement can be moved around, but not the physical distance of the lever to the bar. I must be missing something. If someone can show me the light, I am all ears. Harlan | ||
| Bomber |
Fresno -- you're right, of course -- short of changing the perch, the lever can't be moved, as the pivot point is fixed -- all that can be changed is the engagement point -- that can be altered by changing the amount of freeplay in the lever (which your hand gets used to really quickly -- might not have been right when you first got the bike), and also by changing the adjustment down on the clutch itself -- a small amount of adjustment can easily have an impact on the engagement point there's a bit of variance built into the adjusment procedure (no micormoeters involved), so I'm bettin you could get back to your sweet spot with a little fiddling | ||
| Jackbequick |
Harlan - My bad, I missed that first point and thought you were talkin only about the engagement point. I don't see how the lever could be further away. I would expect a minor change, over time, from clutch and cable wear and stretch. And running the the adjustment sequence may have made the difference. The 1/8" gap has a sort of "soft" feel to it, hard to decide where to stop moving the lever for the actual measurement, pretty subjective. Every mechanic is going to probably feel it is a little different. When I did mine, with the derby cover off, I was watching the actuator arm as I played with the cable sheath adjuster. I wound up lengthening the cable until I saw the actuator arm move a little. Then I backed it off a little to what I though gave the the 1/8" gap. I got a little gear clash so I another 1/2 turn (3 flats on the hex) to the adjuster and it was fine. Jack | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Contacted the dealership today and as you might expect they moved everything to the factory specs. the service manager addressed my problem as the engagement point, not the lever distance. I clarified my problem and I haven't heard back yet. I would absolutely swear/bet alot of money that the lever is farther out. Mostly because I had previously made the brake and clutch levers the same distance from the bar and now the clutch is significantly farther out. I am thinking that there might possibly be an adjustment on the CRG lever (aside from the obvious 1-5 switch adjustment on top)....maybe I am just nuts. I don't know. thanks to all that have taken the time to help me on this confusing matter. | ||
| Grlryder |
In addition to a small adjustment of the cable, where I noticed the largest difference was in the angle of the lever. They had moved my lever back up to almost level with the grip and I prefer mine level down almost a 1/4 of the distance past the grip which is far more comfortable for my wrist. Just by them doing that little move made it seem like the clutch lever had been moved out. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Ahh...I will check that out too...that makes sense if they somehow moved the lever assembly on the curved part of the bar. that would effectively kick the lever out farther. | ||
| Nedwreck |
I just put a set of those on my CityX. Someone had ordered them by mistake and I got them $139. Mine were for some Suzuki but they fit perfectly except for the little plastic bit around the end of the clutch cable. I didn't have to make any adjustments other than removing the plastic bit. Mine have the red adjustment levers. My tiny little hands love them already AND they look the bollocks. Bob |
