| Author | Message | ||
     Buell_892 |
i looked around the KV but i must have horrible search skills... i did find a few cut jobs.. but i want to know the easiest and best way to cut my lid that im going to get from dave soon. I see people cut it all but the top and use bolts, but what do they bolt to... ect. Any and all help welcomed. Thanks, Alex | ||
| Diablobrian |
Most people end up cutting in a pattern that they find aestetically leasing. beyond that it does not matter as long as you leave enough structural integrity for the clips to hold the top in place and you DO NOT make any holes in the oval area above the filter. The bolts you see are used in conjunction with a kit that is available from americansportbike.com as well as others. They are usually run through the holes that are currently occupied by your crank case vents. This of course reuires getting a 3/8 "Y" fitting a piece of 3/8 inch tubing and mounting a 3/8" inlet filter on the end of the hose. All of this is available through American Sport Bike. Hope this helps. | ||
| Cmm213 |
Maybe this helps I saved this pic a while back, hope it helps. I dont know who it came from?  | ||
| Buellin_ri |
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| Buellin_ri |
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| Buellin_ri |
Cost about $3 worth of hardware (threaded rod, 6 nuts, 6 washers) and a 12R lid. | ||
| Hogs |
buell_892, The way I did it was cut everything out ...except about a 2 inch wide area going up from the mounting tabs to the top surrounding lid, this way no need for bolts, or to drill all them holes and it holds it down tight no worries..Hope that helps... | ||
| Fzrider |
I recently received my "stealth Drummer" from Kevin. He discouraged me from drilling holes in the airbox as it would reduce the positive pressure in the airbox... | ||
| Skully |
Maybe this helps I saved this pic a while back, hope it helps. I dont know who it came  I did that after my dynamometer testing showed a nearly 10% gain in horsepower and torque in the mid-range with my XB9S and a D&D muffler. It was very obvious that the stock air box was a bottle neck. I have since done the same thing with a XB12 air box but have not yet returned to the dyno. I'm sure that some of these work better than others, but it seems to me that almost anything is better than stock. Keith | ||
| Cmm213 |
Skully I did this to Mine and I can feel the diff in the mid range. | ||
| Blasterd |
  Mine! After cutting the whole thing except for the lid and using 2 bolts where the breather hoses were I noticed that it would vibrate up in the front. I bought another airbox cover from a fellow Badwebber and came up with this. It uses the front clips to hold the front down and one bolt to hold the lid itself down. Works better in my opinion. Ken | ||
| Yeags30 |
now for a silly question..... You run that setup with the airbox cover?? I want to move more air and utilize the stock airbox cover...i noticed that the factory scoop also blows air across the cylinders so the airbox really doesn't get a lot of air..i think we need to design a ram air intake and use it with the stock cover...suggestions? | ||
| No_rice |
if you want to spend the money for one hals has a sweet ram air setup! | ||
| Madsx |
I'm trying to come up with a small scoop to put inside of the left scoop to direct more air up through the frame. I have cut a piece of an unused snorkel to put on the bottom of the frame opening. Its basically the same shape as the opening an fits around the back edge. Still working on how to actually put it on. Some type of glue or epoxy or something. Any suggestions? I'll try to get pictures of the mock up. | ||
| Adrenaline_junkie |
Weather has not been good for riding here the last couple of days, so I've spent to much time in the building looking at the bike. Something I'm thinking of doing is "opening up" the gap between the air box cover and the frame...mostly on the front edge. This looks like a way to get a little free ram air effect to me. Anybody have any thoughts on this. | ||
| Starter |
Ram air down there will be minimal since the front fairing on both the S and R deflects the wind. |
