| Author | Message | |||
     Buell_892 |
anyone have some nos on their 9, can you put a really low spray on a stock 9, set up, pics... ect. Want to know any of my fellow badwebbers thoughts. Thanks | |||
| No_rice |
here ya go! http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/168313.html?1137459560 | |||
| Buell_892 |
i was actually just reading that... who makes them? How much? | |||
| No_rice |
i made it, and not extremely cheap. bottles are a few hundered alone. if u went with one it'd be obviously cheaper. then solenoids, atleast 50 a piece. then fogger atleast another 50. plumbing could be 100+. ect. ect. | |||
| Buell_892 |
so a 1 bottle set up.. maybe just a 10 shot, something small.. give me a price range if i had you round up the parts for me  Thanks for the help | |||
| No_rice |
so ya, roughly 500. alot depends on what you use for plumbing and fittings. i didnt have to buy any jets so cant remember the price. the aeroquip fittings arent cheap and cant remember exact. then you are going to have to fab some mounts for everything. really you should be able to get by for that or less, but i would have to do alot of calling to get you a more exact price, plus line length and such has an effect on price some. if i remember right i have a fair amount more into mine but dual bottles, dual lines will have that effect, lol. hope that helps some. | |||
| Cmm213 |
I dont think you could do anything that small the fogger would have to be tiny. if you going to do a wet system you will probably have to do at least 30 or so. If you are a novice to the N20 I would say clear of it- just my opinion. | |||
| Buell_892 |
rice, what do you think, how big of a shot, as a novice ill be ok with a small shot right??? Im really sorta hoping you will help me with this process. I plan to have race kit pretty much before i do the NOS, but it will all happen soon, if you are willing to help me out a ton! thanks, Alex | |||
| Diablobrian |
I would avoid a "dry" system like the plague. It will lean your motor out and cause all the problems people will try to warn you about. A "wet" system adds fuel with the nos and is far less dangerous (to your motor, not your license). I'm currently trying to work on re-animating a system I had on a GSXR a few years back. I am looking at a 20 or 30 shot so I can make sure I make more hp on the dyno than a stock 600cc IL4, with a mountain more torque! Since you are just running a single nozzle on the Buell (unless you tap into the intake manifold) a 10 shot should be feasible. The size of the orifices varies by manufacturer so you need to check with NX, NOS, or whomever supplies the fogger nozzle to you to determine proper sizing for both the fuel and nos. Get at least one size larger, and one size smaller fuel orifices too. Their recommendations are just starting points and may require tuning to suit your usage. Istrongly discourage use without dyno tuning, or at least an A/F gage especially is you are new to nos. It is very easy to hole a piston by leaning it out if you don't. (Message edited by diablobrian on January 25, 2006) | |||
| Firemanjim |
NOS systems come in 2 styles,wet and dry.Dry systems use some sort of device(Power Commander,etc) to enrichen the FI when the nitrous comes on--a must as just adding nitrous will cause disatrously lean condition,must have equal amounts of fuel added.Dry systems are only on FI motors.Wet system has a separate fuel system along witht he nitrous,has it's own fuel pump.solenoid,hoses,etc.Best bet for your XB but needs plumbing.If you are handy with working on your bike,this is staight forward install,just start small on jets, and don't scrimp on parts.Lots of stuff can be had on eBay cheap.Great place in SoCal for custom length lines. | |||
| No_rice |
well i guess my thought would be do you really want to spend THAT much if you are just wanting a very small shot? there are people on here that have been extremely deeper into these motors than i have been so make sure you pay attention to what they have to say because i am by no means a pro at nitrous, or anything for that matter, lol. i get by with what i know, and i know plenty, but i am always trying to learn more from people in the know. nitrous is great, but finiky. you could supposedly do a shot that small, but not sure that it would be worth the money for it. then you have to make sure you dont try and spray it to soon in the rpm's or it'll be bad. and if you have to let up on the gas quick while you are on it it could be bad too depending on your set up. mine is all me and the switch, so if i screw up i'm done. i dont think i would ever run a dry system, maybe, but not with what i have right now. i'd rather run whole seperate fuel lines so i know it is getting extra. then you have to decide if you are willing to take the chance of your bike looking like this  not a fun ride when you strip the teeth off the belt and flip it clean over when it catches the next teeth. this is alot of work for 10 horse and there are alot better ways and less possiably harmful(to you bike) ways of making that power. just my $.02 | |||
| Buell_892 |
well i could up it to 20 or 30 shot... i mean im not going ot use it hardly at all, i just wanna have it for when i want it. How much exactly is it going to cost me, and what sort of labor issues (time) is it going to take? | |||
| Buell_892 |
oh yea, i plan on only having 1 bottle, a small one | |||
| Diablobrian |
If you are proficient at wiring and plumbing you should be able to install it in a couple of hours. Assuming the bottle is in an accessible position. As far as cost, it depends on the manufacturer you choose. Nos brand: http://www.holley.com/types.asp?type=177 or nitrous Xpress brand: http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/60022.htm or cold fusion brand: http://www.coldfusionnitrous.com/MotorcycleWetKits.aspx?CategoryID=15 There are many many others either re-selling, re-labeling, or packaging their own nos set ups. Beware the cut-rate systems. The first two brands listed are proven quantities that I and many others have had success with. I have heard that cold fusion makes a good product, but that is not personal experience. There are places that you can get away with cutting corners, this isn't one of them. Cheap components can cost you dearly. As I said before approach with caution if you don't have experience with nos. It can be an easy path to either more HP, or a blown motor. | |||
| Diablobrian |
firemanjim posted this a while back in the KV. It is very relevant here. Everything you ever wanted to know about nitrous but were afraid to ask. http://www.diy-nitrous.fsnet.co.uk/ | |||
| Buell_892 |
rice... how much do you think i could build a kit for? | |||
| No_rice |
i'd say hopefully a little under 500 for a single bottle one. with all the work yourself and scrounging up stuff to make the mounts. it really does come down to who's stuff and how hard you look for thew best price on it. | |||
| Buell_892 |
interested in helping me out with it, finding the right prices and such? | |||
| Cmm213 |
No rice do you run a full throttle switch- or just hit it at a certain rpm? Buell 892 I remember NOS used to make a small bottle that would be good on a XB I think it was called a sneaky pete bottle. Very small though. I have always wanted to do it but unless I could put a system on that had low fuel pressure cut off,timing control,and a-f gauge. I guess I'm a wimp but I dont what to replace XB internal parts if I screw up. Maybe when I get some extra money I will do a good set of heads and cams, to me thats safer. Let us know how it goes, I would love to see some video No rice of a 3rd gear spray! | |||
| Diablobrian |
To answer an earlier question: "Q: How long will the bottle last? Approximately 10bhp per lb per min. So a 2.25 lb bottle on a bike will give just less than a minute with a 25BHP increase. Thats a LONG time when it goes from zero to 150mph in ten seconds!"* It is recommended that you use a 3 switch system. An arming switch, turns the system on. A throttle lock out, keeps system from turning on until you are WFO. Finally a trigger switch that opens the solenoids and happiness commences. With a smaller, 30 hp or less shot it is not necessary to retard timing on a stock motor. "Generally, the higher the compression ratio, the more ignition retard, as well as higher octane fuel, is required."* Also remember to only use nitrous when straight up and down with a straight open road in front of you. Otherwise things go Very very bad. (*quoted from Burgermans) (Message edited by diablobrian on January 26, 2006) | |||
| Diablobrian |
BTW Cmm213, I like how you think with the safety interlocks. That is exactly the kind of corner I'd hate to see someone cutting to save a couple of dollars.  (Message edited by diablobrian on January 26, 2006) | |||
| Diablobrian |
nitrous jet sizes. pulled from Burgerman's.
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| Buell_892 |
All these idea are for WET kits right? Dave called me back today and told me he found a DRY kit... wouldnt wet be easier? | |||
| Diablobrian |
If you want to go dry it's up to you. It is cheaper, no fuel pump, solenoid, lines, or nozzle. I wouldn't put one on any vehicle I own, but that's me. from my earlier post: "I would avoid a "dry" system like the plague." | |||
| Firemanjim |
Dry kit is certainly easier to install and has less parts but you still need some way to add extra fuel.Nitrous by itself will cause a severe lean condition.I have seen how they do it on other FI bikes but don't know anyone offering the same type of electronics for a Buell.That was why I suggested staying wet. |
