| Author | Message | ||
     Peanut_man |
Hello, Now, I did search on KV, but didn't find exactly what I'm looking for, but maybe some one can point me in the right direction? My XB12S clutch engages pretty far out, maybe the lever has to be out 4/5th of the way or so before friction zone starts. Now from reading various posts, that seems normal. But I'm wondering if there's anything I can adjust to take that friction zone inward a bit more? It would just be more comfortable for me, I believe. I tried fooling around w/ the clutch adjustment screw a bit. Manual says to slack the cable, then turn the screw CCW until it lightly bottom and then turn it 1/4 to 1/2 CW. Can someone tell me if toward 1/4 or 1/2 would bring the "friction zone" when using the clutch lever a bit inward? Or should I play w/ the slack instead? I'm also looking into the CRG adjustable levers, but the set is about $200, and that's quite a bit for a pair of levers (can't have just one, looks stupid not matched...). Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance. | ||
| Buelltroll |
200$ well spent i hated my stock lever feel too. | ||
| U4euh |
Have someone help you. They turn the adjustment screw until you feel it is comfortable, then back it off 1/4 turn for safe measure. | ||
| Mrvvrroomm |
Get the CRG's. They are worth the money. Go to this website and contact them. The website sucks, but send them an email telling them what you need. I have CRG levers on all my bikes and this place was the best deal yet. http://rcvmoto.com/ | ||
| Lovematt |
I think part of the problem is where the lever is located relative to the bars...some people like the clutch engaging pretty far away from the bars and some like it in closer. The adjustability of the CRGs was the main reason I got them plus the shorties look better to me by minimizing the handlebar area. These levers are high quality and although they are expensive the change really did enhance my riding by putting the controls were I felt most comfortable. There is also a safety factor in having the controls where you want them....consider having one of your levers being 20 degrees higher than the other which would feel kind of odd right? Now put them back to where they are at least even...that is better and probably safer right? Now put the CRGs on there and put the lever right where you want them...it is about as big a jump in comfort/safety as getting the levers even with each other... Oh yeah...when adjusting the clutch make sure the cable is really loose...like you can move the cable ferrel and housing about 1/4" or more out of of the lever socket. This allows the clutch to be adjusted by itself without any effects from a cable pulling on it. You don't want to run too much slack in the cable as the housing could come out of the lever or the lever will be flopping all over the place...not good. (Message edited by lovematt on October 17, 2005) | ||
| Peanut_man |
U4euh, can you be more specific? Have someone turn the adjustment screw while I squeeze the clutch? Also, how would I know when the clutch engages? I mean, I don't think I can have that clutch inspection cover off while engine is running, right? | ||
| Jackbequick |
U4euh is talking about the screw inside the cover and the procedure as per the service manual. And he's right, you really need to take up the wear in the clutch pack with the internal adjustment first, then adjust the cable for length (done alongside the downtube or in the middle of the clutch cable). I put a Easy Pull Clutch device (get them on eBay) on my M2. That lightens the clutch pull and also makes the engagement span a little wider as far as the travel on the clutch lever. So it starts pulling just 1/4" or so off the grip. I like the feel on the clutch much better with that. Jack | ||
| Peanut_man |
Yes it's the clutch adjustment screw under the cover. But my question is, as per instruction in the manual, you turn it CW 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Toward which end of the adjustment will bring the friction zone closer to the handle bar? Thanks. | ||
| Lovematt |
If you make it looser (tighten until it stops and then back up 1/4 turn...the backing up is where you are loosening) then it will effectively make you pull the clutch less when the lever is pulled in. This will effectively make the "friction point" closer to the bar. However if you make it too loose the cable housing will/could come out of the lever socket...to the point that the cable detaches itself from the lever if out of wack too much. That is why I think you need a different lever....the problem sounds like you don't want to reach too far to use the clutch for shifting or stopping. That is why I am suggesting the CRGs or something equivelant to bring the lever closer to the bar without making the cable so loose it is dangerous... | ||
| Peanut_man |
Lovematt, thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for. Yep, looks like I'll have to ponied up for them CRGs. Sweet levers, too. Just a bit much.  | ||
| Hkwan |
Kind of on topic on this one - does your clutch drag when you are in gear but clutch lever squeeze? It is extremely difficult to push the bike around the garage when in first gear but clutch lever squeezed. Do you guys see the same thing? | ||
| Jackbequick |
Henry - Some drag is normal when you try to push the bike while in gear, clutch pulled, with the engine stopped. But if the bike is trying to move with the lever in, you undoubtedly need to adjust the clutch. There are two adjustments and for best results you should do them both. The first adjustment requires removing the big cover on the primary, that sets the free play on the clutch actuator. The second is done with the length adjuster on the clutch cable housing and that sets the play at the clutch lever. Getting the clutch and primary chain adjustments right can eliminate a lot of unhappiness that relates to clutch action, shifting, and transmission noises when shifting. Jack |
