| Author |
Message |
    
Spiderman
| | Posted on Friday, September 20, 2002 - 12:22 am: | 
|
Well Noface they use whats called a Scanalizer. Think of it like this, A large Game Boy. It has a readout display with a cartraige that plugs into the bottem of the unit. You plug the unit into the bike and have at it. It took me 10 mins to do this to Darth's Bolt. But from what i seen in the new catalouges they are moving tword the laptop modules. Which Suck Ass. I can re set a TPS faster than the techs in my shop. And now with the lap tops all hell is gonna break loose. |
Bud
| | Posted on Friday, September 20, 2002 - 04:38 am: |
|
About the race Ecm, I’ have let the dealer do the TPS calibration.
Can some one tell me if the resetting the (mapping A/F )calibration is harmful.
I’m not sure what the are talking about, but I believe it has to do whit the ecm mapping
“it was al” wrong” the said, the read 138 and the reset it to 100”
I thought that was the specialty of the ecm??
The whole race kit is on, and I jankt out the snorkel.
Dues the closed loop operation cure all “miss adjustments” ( A/F mixture )
Thax,
bud
Ps. All you little dutch elves behave  |
Ar15ls1
| | Posted on Friday, September 20, 2002 - 09:51 am: |
|
Does the rubber velocity stack (snorkle) restrict or help air flow? It seams like it would work to help velocity of the air going into the motor. Before I pull it out I would like to know this for sure. thanks |
Darthane
| | Posted on Friday, September 20, 2002 - 10:36 am: |
|
Race kitted = take it out.
Stock = Try taking it out and doing a SOTP dyno run. The snorkel isn't shaped any differently than the hole through the frame, and there is no scoop or anything on it, so I doubt it really 'forces' the air in, but it does reduce the size of the opening by about 5-6mm.
Bryan |
Ar15ls1
| | Posted on Friday, September 20, 2002 - 02:25 pm: |
|
When I dyno'd my ss camaro I took the air lid off of my maf and throttlebody and I lost 7 hp. After putting it back on I gained it all back. I found out that this was due to the arlid giving the air better velocity and also less turbulence going into the motor. I thought that the rubber snorkel may have the same effect. Regardless ,I am going to take it off and try it. |
Bud
| | Posted on Friday, September 20, 2002 - 03:57 pm: |
|
the instuktion manual say's only take the snorkel out, when instaling the compleet racekit including the ecm,
i dit just that.
looking from above you can see through now,
and as a bonus u can here him snore
i think it's bigger than 5-6 mm, ill measer it to besure
gr, martin |
Noface
| | Posted on Friday, September 20, 2002 - 07:37 pm: |
|
Well, I get up at early at noon (I work 3rd shift) and call the dealer to see if they've resolved the "broke PC" thing they were having trouble with.
They say that they need my stock ECM to verify if their computer is working or not.
So I drive 50 miles there and hand over the stock box.
They get to work on it.
Service guy comes out and says they've got it going. (After about an hour or so)
They apparently found a loose screw in the throttle body and it was sucking air. (What that has to do with the lack of comm between the ECM and PC is beyond me)
They hand me my stock ECM and we then load the bike into the truck.
I get home and it runs like sh*@!
Unrideable.
I install the stock ECM and fire it up. It now idles at 2k rpm! So I take an allen wrench and adjust the idle screw until the tach reads what it did before (about 950rpm).
I install the stock air filter and snorkel.
It runs fine now. Well, it's raining so I haven't had it on the road, but it idles like it should and it doesn't stumble and act goofy (continues to run or decelerate slow when you let off the throttle) while just revving it up on the stand.
I found that the tiewraps I put on the turn signal wires to button them up after the Race ECM install were still intact (unless they use the same kind of tiewraps I do). I don't think they ever re-installed the stock box to try.
I think all they did was crank up the idle to somehow "compensate" for the lack of ECM calibration.
Needless to say I'm pissed.
At least they didn't charge me anything, as the service guy said they were sorry for all the inconvenience. (He rode the bike around the shop. I'm sure he had to know it wasn't right).
So now WTF do I do...
Hey Spiderman, would ya loan me your scanalyzer tool?
Jody |
Blake
| | Posted on Saturday, September 21, 2002 - 12:00 am: |
|
What dealership is this? |
Noface
| | Posted on Saturday, September 21, 2002 - 09:17 am: |
|
Bumpus HD/Buell in Murfreesboro, TN.
The full time Service Mgr was not there yesterday. I'd like to think had he been there, this situation might be somewhat different.
Jody |
Darthane
| | Posted on Saturday, September 21, 2002 - 09:25 am: |
|
Man, Noface, sounds like you've got a bunch of absolute technician morons working there. Find a different dealer. It's so sad that a dealership supposedly trained cannot even handle something as incredibly simple as a TPS zero. I've seen it done twice in my garage. It takes ten minutes, less if the bike is already warm.
Bryan |
Noface
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 08:51 am: |
|
Race Kit Update.
The saga continues...
I got an email offline from a fellow Buell rider suggesting another dealer to go to so I did.
Turns out I ride 50 miles there and they are closed on Monday. They have other locations, so I went there and they only had two tech's working that day, and neither of the two work on Buells.
So I rode another 50 miles to another dealer (I called them first) and had them reset the TPS.
They kept referring to a "reMap", and said they couldn't find any maps for the new XB. I stated that the directions said it needed the TPS recalibrated, and nothing about "remapping" the ECM.
They said kool, they could do that.
I watched from the waiting area as they hooked up a laptop and also a scan tool.
They fiddled with it for about an hour until they said they got it set up.
I actually got to talk to the tech that was doing the work. He said it didn't say in the manual about what percent's to set it at so they set it up like the other tech's S3. Something about 6% at idle and 7 or 8% at such and such rpm. I don't remember specificly.
We talked some about this being the first one they did and that they weren't going to bill me as they wanted to chalk it up as a learing experience and apologized for taking so long. Hey, works for me!
Get on the bike and ride 5 miles to the interstate and head for the house (been up almost 24hrs now).
When we stop for fuel, I notice that it is slow coming "down" from the rpm's. Like it keeps on running at 3k for some time (way too long) after I let go of the throttle.
Pull into gas station and it's idling at 1300-1500 rpm.
I use the trusty allen wrench in the tool pouch to set it back to 1k.
Tried out some wheelies leaving the parking lot. It pulls a REAL NICE 1st gear wheelie if you whack the throttle at 4500rpm. It would put you on your back if you let it.
Second gear wheelies are not as intense as they were in the stock config. Shifting to 2nd at 6k used to produce tall, long wheelies. Now it just kinda pulls it up and sets it back down.
Hmmmm....
Rode it to work last nite. It still seems like it is way too slow to return to idle after letting off the throttle.
After work at 6am, the bike doesn't want to start (about 55deg outside temp). I have to milk the throttle to keep in running for about a minute and a half. I feel like I have my old Sportster (maybe I shoulda kept it?), at least it had a throttle lock.
Overall, it doesn't feel any "faster" or more powerful than the stock configuration. It simply makes more noise.
Jody <---wonderingifhejustwasted$600 |
Chainsaw
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 09:09 am: |
|
Noface, verbatim instructions from the service manual for re-zeroing the TPS:
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Inspection:
1. Connect vehicle to Digital Technician
2. Select data monitor screen.
3. Select TP degrees on screen.
4. Ignition and run switch should be in the on position with the engine off and throttle in closed position.
5. If closed throttle TP degree reading is not between 5.2 - 5.6 degrees, TPS should be recalibrated. See adjustment below.
Adjustment:
1. Connect vehicle to Data Technician.
2. Select data monitor screen.
3. Select TP degrees screen.
4. See figure 1-60 (shows the idle adjustment screw, position is also shown in the owners manual). Back off the idle adjustment until TPS is at 0 degrees and then continue to back out one to two additional turns.
5. Open and SNAP SHUT throttle control grip 2-3 times.
Note: This is to ensure that the throttle plate is completely closed before begining recalibration.
6. Select calibrations screen.
7. Select Buell calibrations tab.
8. Select the Zero TPS function.
Note: When calibration is complete, dialog box will appear on Digital Tech screen with message to display "Command Sent Succesfully" Select OK to continue.
9. Select data monitor screen.
10. Select TP degrees on screen.
11. Turn idle speed screw in until the TPS degree reading is between 5.2 -5.6 degrees.
12. Select RPM/Speed and Temperature on screen and start vehicle.
13. Run vehicle until engine temperature is 270 degrees F.
14. Set idle to 1050 - 1100 RPM
15. Adjustment is complete.
Good Luck |
Chainsaw
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 09:11 am: |
|
...sounds like your TPS is a couple of percent off, (7-8% instead of 5.2-5.6%) hence the erratic idle and slowness of throttle return (in my rookie opinion) |
Spiderman
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 10:32 am: |
|
Chain that would be good if he owned a scan tool. I love how people keep posting that. Even if someone wanted to scrounge up the 2g's it costs to buy one good luck only dealers can own them. I borrow the scan tool from our service dept. once in a while when my BRAG groups FI bikes need tuning, TPS calibration etc. As for the eratic idle run her in 4th gear at 60mph for about 5 miles. That should cure it your bike is trying to re-learn a new fuel map. |
Chainsaw
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 02:13 pm: |
|
Spiderman:
I assume he can print it and take it to the techs that didn't have the specs. |
Bykergeek
| | Posted on Saturday, November 02, 2002 - 08:14 pm: |
|
Idler Pulley Removal: For those you who have put on either the race kit muffler or another. Did you have to remove the rear axle to take the tension off of the belt in order to remove/re-install the idler? I don't have my pit bull stand yet but should be swapping out a muffler (Latus Racing) next wknd. I'll need to find a stand this week if so. Thanks! |
Tripper
| | Posted on Saturday, November 02, 2002 - 10:45 pm: |
|
Saw the prototype WesTek XB9 muffler today. No sound yet, but should be sweet. |
Sparky
| | Posted on Monday, November 04, 2002 - 01:56 pm: |
|
Re: Idler Pulley Removal: Just loosen axle sufficiently (15 turns out I think) to slacken belt.
LP swingarm stand works great & cheap too.
Let us know your impressions of the Latus and, if possible, do before & after dyno runs. Makes great bench racing as to which muffler makes the best bang for the buck.[ pun] Then eventually Aaron Wilson will have a dyno shoot out party between the Buell race kit muffler vs the aftermarket to settle the rumors.
Sparky |
Captainplanet
| | Posted on Monday, November 04, 2002 - 02:52 pm: |
|
Sparky,
Which LP swingarm stand are you using?
Jeff |
Sparky
| | Posted on Monday, November 04, 2002 - 03:39 pm: |
|
Jeff,
Chaparral has a LP Adjustable Swingarm Stand for about $70. It has a white, one-piece frame with vinyl L shaped spring loaded mounting pads. It also fits my 96S1 & 98S3 by taking out one of the springs.
Sparky |
Bykergeek
| | Posted on Monday, November 04, 2002 - 06:53 pm: |
|
Thanks Sparky.
I noticed the rear axle hex head inset is 7/8". I will probably make a tool from a large bolt since I haven't seen any Allen wrenches that large. What is everyone using ? |
Noface
| | Posted on Monday, November 04, 2002 - 08:05 pm: |
|
Sparky,
Your bike should have come with a "hex tool" to remove the axles.
It looks like two 7/8" nuts welded together.
If you didn't get it with your bike, you got gipped. Go to your dealer and ask for one.
Noface |
Bykergeek
| | Posted on Monday, November 04, 2002 - 11:19 pm: |
|
Sure enuf... Thanks Noface.
1 Long 7/8" nut-like thing in the toolbag under the seat. I don't have easy access to a dyno but I already have the before (stock) sound clip. I'll get an after sound byte from the same distance and post it on my site w/ some pics. Another Latus owner in TX emailed me. He thinks it sounds a lot like a Termi equipped duc. We'll see soon. |
|
