| Author | Message | ||
     Tcskeptic |
This is a basic question to which I can't seem to find an answer. In configuring up the suspension settings on my 04 xb12r the screws are always turned clockwise "until it stops" and then backed off by a given number of turns. All the screws except the front fork rebound have a clear point at which they do stop. The front fork rebound screws on the other hand seem to just get tighter and tighter and to truly make them stop I'd have to apply massive amounts of torque. So give a newb some guidance, what is "stopped" in this case? | ||
| Daves |
I turn them in til they feel lightly seated. Yep could probably force them tighter but I don't think that's what they mean. | ||
| Cmm213 |
Like dave said they usually get tight and stop. I hope you didnt force them, they are some really small parts in the fork that you could damage. | ||
| Kowpow225 |
Ewww. Sounds funky. I'd just turn them until snug but yours require 'massive amounts of torque'. Are both sides the same? Try this. Tighten one side until it begins fighting back. Stop, then back it out a half turn or more. Retighten until it puts up the same fight as before. Now check to see if it stopped at the same point. If it's the same, I'd call this the 'bottom'. If it turned a little past your previous point, repeat this process until it stops going past. Can you give a little more info on the amount you have to crank on the little guy? I wouldn't get carried away on these suspension screws. | ||
| Tcskeptic |
OK, lightly seated is easy enough to do. Kowpow, they don't *require* massive amounts of torque just to move, I din't crank down on the things, but I did notice that the engagement was progressive instead of immediate vs the other suspension settings. Thanks for the tips though. My Buell was bought from a Harley dealer that doesn't carry Buells, so I am going through the learning curve of setting up the bike. 1) Correct tire pressure 2) Drain 3/4 quart oil 3) Change fouled plugs 4) Set up suspension Every step the bike becomes more mine though, love it. | ||
| Cmm213 |
Why do you need to drain 3/4 of a quart- It should only have 2 1/2 in it, | ||
| Tcskeptic |
Because it was hugely overfilled by the Harley people. | ||
| Kowpow225 |
I had a similar thing with the oil on my 1000 mi service. I just thought to myself the 1000 mi service was super important and should be done by the dealership...WRONG! Buy all the necessary lubricants/tools/time to do it yourself and save the $250 or more. This advice goes to all the scheduled maintenances you are capable of completing at home. Enjoy your new toy! | ||
| Tcskeptic |
I am in the process of learning that. I have now 5) Set up the clutch and clutch cable correctly. Now I need to adjust the gear shift lever and rear brake lever to accommodate my sasquatch feet a little better. Next up is a full oil and transmission oil change, it has been almost 2k miles since the 1000 mile change, and the bike sat for several months at the dealer. Based on the information learned on the board I'll be putting in Mobil 1 15-50 and 75-90 in the engine and tranny respectively. | ||
| Cmm213 |
Remember to check oil when hot. I like the mobil 1 syn gear oil real easy to put in. Just drain and squeeze 1 whole quart in perfect every time. |
