| Author | Message | ||
     T9r |
Skate board wheels 48mm (black) ebay $8.99(set of 4). 3/16" threaded rod from Home Depot (stainless steel best). 3/16" threaded rod zinc connectors. 3/16" x 1.5" stainless steel allen head bolt $3.50ea. Stainless steel washers $0.20ea from West Marine had to modify to fit inside of skate wheel w/ 3/16 bolt. Loctite. A couple hours later....     After visiting West Marine I thought of another idea. They had stainless steel cap screws $3.50ea , one smaller diameter than 3/16. Then use stainless steel rod of that diameter from Home Depot. Stainless steel would be best in this application as I found rust buildup on the zinc hardware inside the axle. | ||
| Buelltroll |
They end up fading,It's why I took mine off over a year ago after only having them on for a few weeks.  | ||
| Trojan |
Be very careful using skateboard wheels as sliders. A lot of the supermoto guys over here used them to start with, but found that instead of sliding they dig in and grip the road, which can lead to more damage being done by spinning the bike round or even flipping it. Better to use the alloy or hard plastic (Delrin?) type sliders in my opinion. (Message edited by trojan on September 23, 2005) | ||
| T9r |
On mine the Stainless steel bolt that runs thru the middle will get most of the action when grinding down, if it were to go sliding. The previous owner dropped the bike and it scratched up the rear swingarm, if these had been on, that surface damage would of not occured. Trojan, that's for the advice, I understand and agree. Troll, I didn't think about that, we'll see what I have to do to keep them looking black longer | ||
| T9r |
Where can I get a set of 4 Delrin, or other metal sliders for around $10 that have similar dimentions as the skateboard wheels? | ||
| Spatten1 |
I bought solid stainless cabinet knobs at Home Depot and tapped them for 1/4 threaded rod. They were about $5 a piece. They are very thick. Got the idea from someone on the board. | ||
| T9r |
The rubber frame sliders that Buell sells are not Delrin, but a softer rubber. | ||
| Rubberdown |
I spent over $100 on my "bought" sliders"  | ||
| Trojan |
The rubber frame sliders that Buell sells are not Delrin, but a softer rubber. Not sure if they are soft rubber all the way through, as Buell has apparently got a patent on them they may be some sort of new fangles material. Personally I'm not convinced by the frame pucks simply because they don't seem to have enough surface area glued to the frame to stay on in a slide. I haven't tested them though so I may be wrong. | ||
| Henrik |
I've seen pictures from such a "frame slider test" here on Badweb. Sliders worked great. They're not plastic all the way through; only a thin outer layer enclosing a styrofoam type crushable, impact absorbing material. Like a helmet, they're single use items. Sacrifice themselves for the better of the bike  Henrik (Message edited by Henrik on September 23, 2005) | ||
| Aldaytona |
T9r, What happened to your "rocketbracket" aluminum sliders? They looked great on your bike and I am thinking about making a set now. I had purchased the "darkhorse" sliders which by the way are 1st class but someone else seemed to like them even more than me (but that's another story and it needs a violin playing in the background to be truly effective). Stopped looking for other XBs with "darkhorse" sliders, hell, haven't seem many XBs anyway.  Thanks, Al | ||
| Jerseyguy |
I made a matched set of sliders & bar ends yesterday out of some scrap titanium for my new SS. Should give quite a show if I ever go down, God forbid.  | ||
| Reepicheep |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=32777&post=500873#POS T500873 They completely protected the frame of a track bike that went down at 80mph and over rumble strips. Thats pretty impressive. | ||
| T9r |
Aldaytona, The powder coat finish on them was starting to come off. I wanted something with larger diameter as well. I'll keep searching for an inexpensive solution. Just a word to the wise, when you cap off both ends of the axle and any moisture happens to get in there, anything that isn't stainless will RUST. JERSEYguy, Looks great! | ||
| Skully |
Just a word to the wise, when you cap off both ends of the axle and any moisture happens to get in there, anything that isn't stainless will RUST. Exactly why the Dark Horse Moto threaded portion is 18-8 stainless steel. Keith | ||
| Jcbikes |
Jerseyguy - what are the diameter and length of those sliders. very nice! | ||
| Jerseyguy |
Rear = 1.5" OD x 1" long. Front = 1" OD x 1" long. The pilot depth is .5" (I forget the diameters) 5/16 stainless rod, threaded on both ends holds them on. They could be made from aluminum too. | ||
| Diablobrian |
Wish i had some titanium (even scrap pieces)"just laying around". I have several projects for the race bike (after prototyping on my street bike of course) that it would be suitable for. Until some falls off of the delivery truck i'll just have to make do with the less exotic stuff I can get locally I guess. Some days I wish I was still doing aerospace prototype machining, unfortunately we weren't racing then. | ||
| Jcbikes |
jerseyguy - pilot depth is how far they go inside, right. also, on the sides with the hex, anything special there? Thanks for the info... | ||
| Davefla |
Jerseyguy- those are SWEET. The Ss ain't bad either- I like those wheels more every time I see them! | ||
| Tenaciousb |
I took some advise on this thread and instaled some cabinet knobs. hope these pics turn out ok, I have never done this before   | ||
| T9r |
Little to no fading going on with my skate wheel sliders. The bike has been riden pretty regularly and left out in the sun during the day while at work. |
