| Author | Message | ||
     12r |
Changed the primary lube yesterday. Bike was upright but had both wheels on level ground. Filled the primary with Syn3 until it *just* touched the recessed part of lowest tooth on the clutch diaphragm spring - definitely less than a quart. Then I adjusted the primary chain (remembering to move it up AND down). It was generally loose, but there was a tight(er) spot and a slack spot so I increased the tension 1/4 turn clockwise such that the tightest was just about 3/8" and the slackest was 9/16" (cold). Put the covers back and rode out. The shifting is AMAZING ! Really buttery smoooooooooth and selecting neutral at a standstill is a no-brainer. The background vibe at 3-3500 rpm is gone and the whole plot feels sharper and happier. And only a minor 'clunk' putting it into 1st from cold  I realise the above is slightly different 'to the book' and it took me a while to measure stuff and do it accurately but I think it was worth it. | ||
| Lovematt |
Taking your time when adjusting the primary should give results such as you describe....I take a good 15 minutes to try many as many positions as I can with a minimum of 20 measurements taken. I also adjust the clutch while I am at it at the same time. Between these two if everything is working as it should...shifting should be greatly improved...less clunking and neutral is real easy to find. Just be careful to not make it too tight...a little loose is better than a little tight. However perfect adjustment is better than both of these... | ||
| Jackbequick |
What these two guys said! I went through all this this summer and if your Buell will not snick into low almost quietly and proceed through the gears easily, the solution is detailed above. The shift into 2nd, once under way, will always involve a clunk as near as I can tell but it will be reduced to unobjectionable level when all is right. I added the Easy Pull Clutch thing to mine (about $30 on eBay) and think it makes a contribution to smooth and easy get aways. It makes the clutch adjustment a little more critical because it increases the amount of lever travel that is used in engagement but the feel is much better over than the stock setup. Jack | ||
| Sped214 |
12r: Are you removing both covers on the primary? I've adjusted my primary a few times, but have never been able to see the clutch diaphragm spring. I've always just drained it, and put the entire quart of Mobil1 75w-90 into the primary, put the inspection cover back on and driven away. I wonder if I've got too much fluid in there, and that's why I still have the "Clunk!"... | ||
| Lovematt |
I drain the primary on my bike while it is on the side stand, have always put in a full quart of Mobil1 FullSyn back in, then put the bike on the rear wheel stand, adjusted the primary chain as noted above and never had a problem with shifting. Make sure you let it drain for a good 2-3 minutes and right after at least a 10-15 minute ride. | ||
| Sped214 |
Nevermind. Just changed it tonite, I had *ahem* overfilled the primary the last couple times I had done it. Did it correctly tonite, as well as adjusted the clutch (much needed). Took it for a short ride, it's like a new bike again. Thanks, guys! | ||
| M1combat |
If you level the bike while draining it seems to like a full quart... | ||
| 12r |
Guys IMO a quart is way too much - 28 oz max. I know this has been discussed before (ahem) but I found this pic useful. A small torch helps to see inside the primary casing.  I didn't fill mine quite as high as the pic shows. | ||
| Jackbequick |
A piece of 2x4 (1-5/8" thick on the 2 side) brings my M2 a little short of vertical. Another 1/2" or so and it will go beyond vertical at a light touch. I put the block under the stand to check the fluid level. When I'm draining the primary, I put the sidestand up and lean the bike to the left for a minute or so to get some oil out of the low spot in the tranny area. As the clutch adjustments start to go away, I feel some more slack at the lever on the bars and lose some disengagement at the clutch. The increase seems to occur mostly at the adjusting screw on the actuator (from wear on the plates?) so I check that one first and then do the lever too if it needs it. My Easy Pull Clutch mod needs and uses more of the lever pull range so it will become noticeable sooner that with the stock setup. And I notice that gear clash increases a little after I have been riding 30 minutes or more. That probably means that I'm losing a little adjustment with all the parts well warmed up. I might try to offset that by setting the actuator adjusting screw to have just a little "heavier" contact when I set it cold. That is a pretty subjective adjustment. Jack | ||
| Reepicheep |
The hollow rear axle allows a chunk of rebar or small pipe and two jackstands to work very well also. You can pivot the bike up to get the rear wheel completely off the ground easily with no jacks or tools, you just kind or "rock" it up. | ||
| M1combat |
That's just a tad higher than I fill mine as well and I fill it with a FULL quart. Granted, I don't sit there squeezing the bottle repeatedly to get every last tiny drop out. If you level the bike (my bike anyway...) and let as much drain out as possible, then pour in a full quart, it comes up to the level that the manual shows. It comes up to where it maybe 1/64th of an inch past the depth of the teeth. Just a little bit lower than that pic shows and at pretty much exactly the level that the manual shows. Maybe I'm draining more? It always shifts nicely, that's for sure... |
